TQS track car project - extremely slow progress

i'd go for slightly more camber than stock, maybe 1.5 degrees, a touch of toe in on the rear (pretty much as per factory) and if you want you can try a touch of toe out on the front to improve turn in.
 
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Had the wheel allignment done today and while car was on ramps I had a look at the exhaust. Somehow I didn't notice earlier that the sleeve just behind flexi doesnt hold one side of the exhaust. So quickly to GSF. Car on ramps and old out


And new one in. Finally nice and quiet, no more rattle.
 
I will. Already had a mouse on a buy it know button for jetex catback but then I looked at my bank account and it changed my mind ;)
 
360 vs 600 quid. Not sure it's worth it .
 
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Bigger diameter, better flow, less restriction for bigger turbo

Taken from the sticky technical thread !!

2.25"-ko3 power
2.5" to 2.75"-ko4
2.75" and up- BT
 
Milltek comes with downpipe. Does it delete the cat?
 
miltek is a ripoff.

If your going to spend that much, find a local place and get a custom system made up.
 
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I got mine for £150 and my old system :)

So not quite a rip off here lol

It probably would make sense to get a system made up then you could go 3" :)

I got quoted off topgear in stockport for a 3" cat back £800.

B5quat's old TQS i believe has a custom made scorpion system on it now from what he was telling me.
 
There is a big exhaust UK in Sheffield so I might have a quote there. But, that's probably next year anyway. Wouldn't 3" exhaust be a bit too mich with k03? It would be great to have a 3" exhaust done so that it wouldn't need to be changed when I go BT.
 
Just keep an eye out for a second hand S4 3 inch system and then you can get a downpipe made up like you suggested before. Should be far cheaper than a full custom or a 2.75" A4 milltek. Then if you go BT you can just get another downpipe made up and you will already have a relationship with the people who did it before.

I have that with the resonated centre and it is not loud and just has a nice burble at idle. I used to have a straight through custom system onto various back boxes and I grew tired of the drone and embarrassment when leaving peoples houses.
 
A bit of a step back with front brakes. Went for a drive on sunday and one of my caliper bolts doesnt hold how it should. Ordered new nuts and spring washers but still didn't arrive. Completely stuck at work this week from early morning till late evening so will need to try and sort it out friday night just before the track day on saturday. Not a great situation because I will have a very limited time to test it. Got a bottle of coolant today, need to get some screen wash and a tyre for the spare.
 
how do you mean the bolt doesnt hold?!

You probably shouldnt be using spring washers on braking components either...
 
Nut goes loose after some driving/hitting potholes. It's the big bolt that holds brembo calipers to upright. Some of the bolt sets come with spring washer and 2 normal washers. One normal and spring on the bolt head side and normal on the nut side. Mine came just with one on the nut side.
 
Use Nylocs?

A properly torqued Nyloc shouldnt need spring washers or anything fancy.

Are any of the mating surfaces painted? The paint softening can cause the bolted interface to become slack.
 
Maybe as a stop gap if possible use another nut on the bolt to lock it in place on the bolt.

Or use a nyloc nut as suggested above.
 
Had a look at my ebay and that's the kit I have. So there are actually no separate washers.
This type of nut shouldn't undo itself?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brembo-17Z-...Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e8f55ab21&vxp=mtr

If the bolt unwinds itself, should I try a normal flat washer on the bolt head side?
JHM has this setup with normal nut and 2 flat washers and 1 spring.
http://jhmotorsports.com/shop/catal...-kit-porsche-cayenne-brembo-piston-p-467.html

The bolt isn't long enough to put another nut on.
 
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Isn't it the same nut to what I've got now?
Got the stainless flat washers and spring washers today.
Need to think what I can do for the track day in 2 days with limited time.
Do you guys think I should just try flat washers on both sides and see how it goes?
Check them every few laps on Saturday and if it doesn't work, find a better solution.
 
You didnt answer my question above, is either of the surfaces painted?

Also, if that cap head is bearing onto aluminium, theres nowhere near enough metal there, its probably deforming the alloy, you need a big washer between that cap head and the alloy (stock bolts have a huge washer thats maybe 20mm or more in diameter, thats also ribbed).

Thirdly, are the flange nuts locking nuts, or just normal nuts with a flange?

Fourthly, are they fine threaded bolts, or normal course?
 
Right, just took the wheel off and one of the nuts managed to come off completely while I was crawling home.

Caliper on the side of bolt head is painted so I will sand it off.
No, nuts arent locking from what I can see. Will try to get all 4 nylocks but it seems they don't do this size at screwfix.

That's how the bolt looks like
 
Can't get the ****** locking nuts anywhere in sheffield. If I get normal nut with washers would it be ok?
 
Found them! After 2 hours searching all over sheffield ***.
 
You need a MUCH thicker washer under that cap head.

Factory bolts look like this:

http://www.passatplus.de/umbauten/bremsen/321/N90876802.jpg

Either liberate a set from some factory bolts, or find something similar.

Aluminium is very soft, so the load needs spread nice and wide. If its alloy uprights, you need similar washers on the other side too.
 
The whole fitment isn't right. Nylocs won't do much difference to normal ones as the bolt isn't sticking out enough to get to nylon part of the nut. Tried 60mm bolt but it is too long and touches brake disc.

If I fit thicker washers, this will shorten the bolt even more and nut won't hold it at all.

 
Was thinking about it as well. I could cut 5mm off the 60mm bolt. I have only 8.8 grade bolts though. Not 12.9 like the black ones . Is that strong enough? Could order 12.9 lto change later but no chance to get it before saturday.
 
The left side sorted. Will have to do the other side tomorrow after work. I've cut the 8.8 grade ones and put washers and nylocs on. Previously the nut was standard one and holding only part of the thread of the bolt. Now, bolt goes through the whole nyloc. Not much clearance with the disc but should be just fine.
 
No, it is m14 bolt and nut. Upright hole is 14mm diameter. Brembos hole is 16mm that's why the sleeve on the bolt.
 
Balls If that's the case I will have to probably miss the track day.
 
Tried everywhere but all of them are expected delivery 3-5 days
 
What a day...
Thanks to Kev's advice I managed to source some 12.9 grade bolts, 65mm long in Barnsley where I was working today.

Called engineering supplies and only one had them.
Got a new tyre put on spare wheel.

Picked everything up after work. Got home just after 6. Went to b&q to get metal cutting disc to cut the bolts as mine got finished. Get out back to the car only to find out that caliper on my altea has seized!

So tomorrow, I will be trying to sort out altea so that it is ready for a long drive to work instead of tracking a4.

Absolutely gutted.
 
Was a bit bored yesterday so took it for a drive through snake pass at night. Front of the car feels really good but the rear feels too soft. Like rubber bits in suspension are tired or something. With pretty much whole front suspension new, what should I start off with the rear? I don't think that upgraded anti roll bar will fix the problem as it isn't really a roll but more like side to side movement.

Will also need to do both rear bearings. Any decent I can buy?
 
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