Another S4 Cam Chain Thread

My tech sets the timing in the following sequence.

1. Times Crank to TDC and locks using crank locking pin (Audi Special Tool).
2. Then locks all cams using the locking bars.
3. Ensures mechanical adjusters are both in locked position and then fits them, then uses the wedge (Audi Special Tool) to ensure the chain is tensioned and then sets the cam timing wheels on the front of the adjusters, then torques everything up.

* As the cams/mechanical adjusters have no woodroof key to locate the adjusters onto the cam, if anything this makes it easier a as you just fit the mechanical adjuster and line it up with the chain link v tooth on the adjuster.

* Don't forget you can only use those cam shaft bolts once........ It's a pain for people like us who've had do to the job twice due to defective new parts.
 
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Those metal coolant pipes really are a pain, but glad you managed it too.

My tech has said that it's almost as quick to pull the engine again as it takes getting the rear covers off in such a confined space.
 
Hi Jim,

No i didn't change out any of the cam adjustment parts first time round.

I like your actuator test you did, gona give that a go on mine tomorrow,

It is quite abit of work to get down to it, was looking like i may have been taking the engine out, but got there eventually.

Yer i know its annoying about those bolts, but i made a mistake re-using stretch bolts before and almost lost the entire engine clean through the bottom of my S3. wont be making that mistake again.
 
LOL..... Close Call, I've had a few of those too..... LOL.

But with an engine like these, it's just not worth taking a chance.

On an old Ford or something similar, you can get bye, but these are too expensive to take a chance.

The actuator test is really easy, just positive (12v) on one terminal and Neg on the other, then reverse the polarity and you'll be able to see the piston move up and down in the actuator through the holes.
 
Tomorrow will be the day for me, just keeping my fingers crossed it runs perfectly.

If it doesn't it'll be going in the bin....... LOL.
 
Yes - I'm up and running....... yes Yes yes.

My Thread updated.

Best of luck with yours Tom
 
Hi Tom,
Did you get to the bottom of your misfire? From reading this thread I am experiencing all of the same problems. Cheers Gordon.
 
Hi Gents

Sorry for the radio silence and little progress to report, been training for and doing a Spartan Race!!!! (Google it! i couldn't recommend it enough!) also been on a great to baguette+wine land

Anyway all other tasks are now complete, so the S4 is top of priority list again.....

Been thinking and decided i am going to pull engine again, i want to check out the usual suspect guide, make sure it hasn't broken again. plus it makes it allot easier to reset the timing and components.
 
Hi Tom,
I have an audi s4 b6 4.2 v8 that is suffering from a bad Missfire.
The story so far is,
The car had its cam chains, tensioners, guides and cam adjusters changed at 90000 miles. At 95000 miles the car developed a bad miss fire on bank 2 mainly on cylinder 7 but also on the other cylinders. It is popping back up the intake manifold.
Things we have tried so far,
Checked injectors and coil packs, checked cam timing and that the pin locks in the cam adjuster. Removed head and sent away( nothing wrong with it). Replaced hydraulic intake lifters. Refitted head still the same. My mechanic now wonders if the lobes on the segmented cam have moved as he thinks this is all that can cause the poping up the intake manifold. Have you ever heard of this happening or is there something else that could cause this that we haven't tried yet? Please help.
This miss fire is really bad making the car undriveable.
If anyone can help would be very great full.
Cheers Gordon.
Sent from my iPhone
 
Hi Jim, my mech says that the cam is not made from a solid billet an is instead a bar with lobes pressed on. He is wondering if they have moved?
Cheers Gord.
 
segmented camshaft are commonly used on motorbikes with "desmodromic" valve systems such as ducati moto gp bikes
the valve system is again used in f1 cars , but the camshafts are commonly one piece and not segmented
i have never seen a normal road car use such a system , so might well be worth ringing audi and getting conformation if indeed the camshaft is
desmodromic or a one piece forged or billet item
hope you get it sorted
 
It could well be that the lobes have moved. Its defo worth checking them. Fords have lobes pressed on to the camshafts and when the chains slip they normally hit the valves and twist the lobes on the shaft. I'm sure they could be reset but we alway replace the cams on a side of caution
 
Hi Tom, have you managed to sort it out yet? Just got to the bottom of mine and is now up and running!
 
Right a quick reply for now. Pics and more info to follow tomorrow when I'm on the PC.

By shear luck I looked down my down pipe. And noticed a the bank 2 pre cat completely missing!!! Got pipe off and found it in the main cat. Completely blocked all flow through it! This explains a lot!

What's the story with yours Gorden?
 
TomCrox41 said:
Right a quick reply for now. Pics and more info to follow tomorrow when I'm on the PC.

By shear luck I looked down my down pipe. And noticed a the bank 2 pre cat completely missing!!! Got pipe off and found it in the main cat. Completely blocked all flow through it! This explains a lot!

What's the story with yours Gorden?
Click to expand...
Reading your post was like a mirror image of my problems and the problem was the same! Only found it by chance. The confusing bit was that it was firing ok on number 5!
Pleased you have sorted it though!
Get out and enjoy it now!

Cheers Gord!
 
tom , gordon

really pleased you guys have gotten to the bottom of your problems
 
Ok got a small problem.

My reverse lights are on at all times when the ignition is on. strange as this time i left the gbox in place.
Unplug the connector and the lights go off, plug it in and they are on. Anyone experienced this before???
 
Glad you sorted the running problem.

It sounds like the switch is stuck.
Remove the switch and plug it back in. If with the ignition on the light stays on the the switch is ******** and just needs replacing. Not expensive.

If the light goes out then there's something wrong in the gearbox. But very unlikely
 
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