Amplifier Location?
- Thread starter BradA3G
- Start date
Well... Anywhere in the majority of your picture... Depending if you got the small form factor amp you could put it near the sub (Behing the right hand side trim) or mount it on the back of one of the seats, I've seen/heard of people putting them under the back seats, however I would advise against that...
It also depends what you're installing or planning on running too...
It also depends what you're installing or planning on running too...
Thanks for the reply, the amp will be powering some 6x9 speakers & maybe a subwoofer in the future, got all the wires through the car ready just need a location for the amp
Yeah well I was thinking about the rear of the seats but is it okay to drill screws into them? as I don't know what is behind the seats?
And how do you take the trim off so i can take a closer look at putting it behind the right hand side trim?
Historically I've always used Industrial Velcro to mount the amp, so its easily removable. And on the wires to the speakers I've used terminals so you can easliy unplug them to remove the shelf (assuming thats where you are putting them...? Beware the parcel shelves are pretty pricey to replace though...) and or the amp, if you want/need to.
Yeah I've got to cut the holes out for the speakers still, i'm worried about doing that to the parcel shelf haha!
I had an amp and subwoofer before and just mounted the amp on the back of sub, but it was too big for me and I got rid of it, just need a smaller amp/sub with 6x9 speakers and i'll be happy its just planning it all out
Firstly I would urge you to consider what you are aiming to achieve and what you want from your ICE.
6x9's have great marketing appeal as theyre common, cheap and give an apparent 'good bassy' sound. However there are several drawbacks to them, mainly they draw the overall soundstage backwards as they are usually massively overly powered in comparison to the fronts. On that same note, with them being commonly positioned in the parcel shelf, notably, in the same location as the subwoofer, they often get distorted by the SPL (Sound pressure level) of the subwoofer which renders them pointless in reality.
I would recommend, if you want loud and good sound quality, a very good set of separate front component speakers, wither 2 way or 3 way, however the drawback with 3 way is you have a 2nd woofer speaker to install somewhere which isn't commonly or simply done... 2 ways would suit you well.
you could even replace the rear speakers with an extra set of components.
In all the IASCA competitions I competed in (placed lowest 3rd back in 2004 - 2006. I finished the 2005 SPL season 2nd loudest in the UK) I only had a set of front components and 2 x 12" subwoofers. However I'm not in the market for loud daft stereo's anymore...
Work out what you want, take your time and buy the right gear once... IMO avoid 6x9's all together...
Dan
6x9's have great marketing appeal as theyre common, cheap and give an apparent 'good bassy' sound. However there are several drawbacks to them, mainly they draw the overall soundstage backwards as they are usually massively overly powered in comparison to the fronts. On that same note, with them being commonly positioned in the parcel shelf, notably, in the same location as the subwoofer, they often get distorted by the SPL (Sound pressure level) of the subwoofer which renders them pointless in reality.
I would recommend, if you want loud and good sound quality, a very good set of separate front component speakers, wither 2 way or 3 way, however the drawback with 3 way is you have a 2nd woofer speaker to install somewhere which isn't commonly or simply done... 2 ways would suit you well.
you could even replace the rear speakers with an extra set of components.
In all the IASCA competitions I competed in (placed lowest 3rd back in 2004 - 2006. I finished the 2005 SPL season 2nd loudest in the UK) I only had a set of front components and 2 x 12" subwoofers. However I'm not in the market for loud daft stereo's anymore...
Work out what you want, take your time and buy the right gear once... IMO avoid 6x9's all together...
Dan
LOL, I was about to chime in with more or less the same advice - I was doing IASCA in '96/97.
In favour of rear fill, always spend more on the front components. The advice I was given was - The music doesn't come from the back of the concert (and bass is largely omnidirectional)
If find my factory BOSE setup ample these days, albeit not very bright in the highs.
In favour of rear fill, always spend more on the front components. The advice I was given was - The music doesn't come from the back of the concert (and bass is largely omnidirectional)
If find my factory BOSE setup ample these days, albeit not very bright in the highs.
So would these 2-way JBL Speakers be Ideal? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JBL-180W-...6?pt=UK_In_Car_Technology&hash=item51b0a9c8be
And they can be put in the parcel shelf too?
and what sort of amp do i need, 2-channel? or more and what sort of power output?
LOL, I was about to chime in with more or less the same advice - I was doing IASCA in '96/97.
In favour of rear fill, always spend more on the front components. The advice I was given was - The music doesn't come from the back of the concert (and bass is largely omnidirectional)
If find my factory BOSE setup ample these days, albeit not very bright in the highs.
I would change the front speakers, are they easy enough to do yourself? and how do you get to them without breaking things and messing the trim up haha
The problem with mounting anything in the parcel shelf is that the pressure generated by the sub distorts them... So forget parcel shelf mounting at all...
In fact you can almost forget the back at all... I'll have a look at that link later and let you know...
With regards to amp channels and power etc etc it depends how loud or what kind of set up you want... You can do clever things like use two right rca's to one 2 channel amp running bridged and 2 left rca's to another amp bridged and effectively double your power output...
Ideal setup would be a 2 channel amp to run your fronts running at 4ohms and a d-class mono block amp to run your sub...
But again it depends what you want. I can itemise a competition setup for SQ (sound quality) or for SPL which is basically loud loud bass with decent fronts...
What's your budget and aim?
In fact you can almost forget the back at all... I'll have a look at that link later and let you know...
With regards to amp channels and power etc etc it depends how loud or what kind of set up you want... You can do clever things like use two right rca's to one 2 channel amp running bridged and 2 left rca's to another amp bridged and effectively double your power output...
Ideal setup would be a 2 channel amp to run your fronts running at 4ohms and a d-class mono block amp to run your sub...
But again it depends what you want. I can itemise a competition setup for SQ (sound quality) or for SPL which is basically loud loud bass with decent fronts...
What's your budget and aim?
All I want is a crisp and clear sound when playing music, and a nice bass is ideal but that can be done in the future, budget is anything really as I'll do it over a few months but nothing stupidly expensive
Ok well I'd do it in stages:
1) Awesome Fronts - Hertz HSK's http://caraudionow.com/click/hertzhsk165
or Pheonix gold are good Mid - high level brand something like these: http://www.phoenixgold.com/products/SPEAKERS/elite/product.php?productID=61
2) Sub - 10" JL W7 (http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/ho112r-w7-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93112 or a JL W3 D2 (DVC) (http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10w3v3-2-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofer-drivers-92150)
3) JL Monoblock Amp http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/hd1200-1-car-audio-hd-amplifiers-98250
4) Fronts Amp - http://www.phoenixgold.com/products/amplifiers/Elite/product.php?productID=74
Complete... (Assuming you have a headunit capable of supplying all this, ideally with 2 RCA outs and 1x RCA Sub out.)
1) Awesome Fronts - Hertz HSK's http://caraudionow.com/click/hertzhsk165
or Pheonix gold are good Mid - high level brand something like these: http://www.phoenixgold.com/products/SPEAKERS/elite/product.php?productID=61
2) Sub - 10" JL W7 (http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/ho112r-w7-car-audio-h-o-wedge-subwoofer-systems-93112 or a JL W3 D2 (DVC) (http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/10w3v3-2-car-audio-w3v3-subwoofer-drivers-92150)
3) JL Monoblock Amp http://www.jlaudio.co.uk/hd1200-1-car-audio-hd-amplifiers-98250
4) Fronts Amp - http://www.phoenixgold.com/products/amplifiers/Elite/product.php?productID=74
Complete... (Assuming you have a headunit capable of supplying all this, ideally with 2 RCA outs and 1x RCA Sub out.)
Screwing amp to the back of the seat wont be a problem, I've secured my sub box the same way. Just make sure you've got good drill bits as they are not easy to drill through. Also like the other guys said 6x9s aren't much cop, definitely better going for some decent component speakers up front just make sure they are amped and you will get a decent amount of base from them. If you need rear fill just get some coaxials and wire them to the head unit. I also left the centre dash speaker wired up and glad I did as it certainly made a good difference in my set up. Also to remove trim in boot it's just 1 screw and then metal spring clips. To take door cards off to access front speakers there's a screw at the bottom of the door card and 2 screws behind the metal trim which just clips off if you carefully prize it off with a flat head screw driver then the door card just clips off from there. Changed all my speakers couple weeks ago and added a sub and amp so if you need to know anything just drop me a message. Also I went for a 4 channel amp to power the front components and my sub, sounds great now!!!
Just my two pennies worth...
I've been doing an install in mine just recently, and it's worth noting that its good to dynomat (sound deaden) as much as you can! Doors for sure, this will help. And lay down new speaker wires to all doors (though getting cables through the door grommets was a bit of a mission) especially if you plan to be pumping 70wrms or more to your speakers, the stock Audi cables aren't good enough.
Def wouldn't bother with 6x9's, it's not worth it, especially if you are installing a sub at somepoint, you could even still use the inbuilt Audi sub in the short run. Components in the front and perhaps coaxial in the rear would be more than enough, so the sound stage isn't pushed back. But I would run them through a good 4 channel amp.
I would also change the headunit too, you won't get hardly any benefit using aftermarket speakers on stock Audi.
Bare in mind any new speakers you install will need a run-in period of use before they loosen up and sound right. But there comes in lots of tuning!
I've been doing an install in mine just recently, and it's worth noting that its good to dynomat (sound deaden) as much as you can! Doors for sure, this will help. And lay down new speaker wires to all doors (though getting cables through the door grommets was a bit of a mission) especially if you plan to be pumping 70wrms or more to your speakers, the stock Audi cables aren't good enough.
Def wouldn't bother with 6x9's, it's not worth it, especially if you are installing a sub at somepoint, you could even still use the inbuilt Audi sub in the short run. Components in the front and perhaps coaxial in the rear would be more than enough, so the sound stage isn't pushed back. But I would run them through a good 4 channel amp.
I would also change the headunit too, you won't get hardly any benefit using aftermarket speakers on stock Audi.
Bare in mind any new speakers you install will need a run-in period of use before they loosen up and sound right. But there comes in lots of tuning!
Just my two pennies worth...
I've been doing an install in mine just recently, and it's worth noting that its good to dynomat (sound deaden) as much as you can! Doors for sure, this will help. And lay down new speaker wires to all doors (though getting cables through the door grommets was a bit of a mission) especially if you plan to be pumping 70wrms or more to your speakers, the stock Audi cables aren't good enough.
Def wouldn't bother with 6x9's, it's not worth it, especially if you are installing a sub at somepoint, you could even still use the inbuilt Audi sub in the short run. Components in the front and perhaps coaxial in the rear would be more than enough, so the sound stage isn't pushed back. But I would run them through a good 4 channel amp.
I would also change the headunit too, you won't get hardly any benefit using aftermarket speakers on stock Audi.
Bare in mind any new speakers you install will need a run-in period of use before they loosen up and sound right. But there comes in lots of tuning!
Did you dynomat? And if so did you note a before and after difference?
I was in two minds about doing it or not.
I was running with the SQ (sound quality) guys. I'm not sure I remember if there were specific categories for that. I was running some tasty Clif Designs 6.5" components in the front and 2 x 12" Infinity subs in the back, all on Genesis amps. Had the original Playstation running to an LCD screen in the dash and a 30 band EQ sat in a shallow compartment in the passenger footwell. About a kW of RMS power, which for hand-built Genesis amps was a rather conservative estimate. Good times.
I have just finished my install in my A3 8P. I did it in two stages because of the cost.
My ultimate aim was not for a loud, or flashy system, but an audiophile grade sound that was reliable.
I have used the standard symphony II head unit as it has 4x pre-outs. I fitted a £50 aux in kit.
I ran 4AWG wire with a 50A inline fuse from the battery through the rubber boot by the wiper motor and along under the interior trim to the boot.
I then built my own small amp cabinet in the boot and fitted two 12V PC fans on a digital temperature controller for cooling.
I have two amps, the first is a JL Audio JX360/4, this is powering 4x 6" carbon fiber Focal component speakers installed with ebay adapters in the factory locations. I have run my own 16AWG wiring for the speakers.
The second amp is a JL Audio JX250/1, it is powering a JL Audio 8W3V3-4 sub, installed in a custom fit MDF box from ebay that fits in the factory sub location with some modification to the carpet.
I have spent a long time adding things and solving problems with this system, but I'm finally happy with it. All in it cost me about £750, but no expense was spared.
Here are a few pics. Feel free to ask any questions.
My ultimate aim was not for a loud, or flashy system, but an audiophile grade sound that was reliable.
I have used the standard symphony II head unit as it has 4x pre-outs. I fitted a £50 aux in kit.
I ran 4AWG wire with a 50A inline fuse from the battery through the rubber boot by the wiper motor and along under the interior trim to the boot.
I then built my own small amp cabinet in the boot and fitted two 12V PC fans on a digital temperature controller for cooling.
I have two amps, the first is a JL Audio JX360/4, this is powering 4x 6" carbon fiber Focal component speakers installed with ebay adapters in the factory locations. I have run my own 16AWG wiring for the speakers.
The second amp is a JL Audio JX250/1, it is powering a JL Audio 8W3V3-4 sub, installed in a custom fit MDF box from ebay that fits in the factory sub location with some modification to the carpet.
I have spent a long time adding things and solving problems with this system, but I'm finally happy with it. All in it cost me about £750, but no expense was spared.
Here are a few pics. Feel free to ask any questions.
Managed to pick up this kenwood 640 w 4 channel amp, Is this any good for starting off?
It's got 3 rcas one line out and 2 line ins
This will be fine
Nope it's an 03 8p 2.0 tdi SE. Thanks
I have spent a lot if time and money getting it right!I actually machined my own terminal blocks out of stainless to take the 4AWG wires in the cabinet as I couldn't buy any terminal blocks big enough lol
ilknur07
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Dear all
Recently I remplaced concert 2 with RNSE. After I found no sound coming from rear speakers. I searched from forums and internet. All of them tell me that, it is requared additional amp for rear.
what type of amplifier do you recomend? 2 channel or 4 channel ?
What is 8E5035223 for? Some ebay seller advise it to me . I need to make sure.
Rear speakers were working with concert2.
What else do I need to get for connecting them?
My car is audi a4/b7 2007
Any help would be appreciated
Recently I remplaced concert 2 with RNSE. After I found no sound coming from rear speakers. I searched from forums and internet. All of them tell me that, it is requared additional amp for rear.
what type of amplifier do you recomend? 2 channel or 4 channel ?
What is 8E5035223 for? Some ebay seller advise it to me . I need to make sure.
Rear speakers were working with concert2.
What else do I need to get for connecting them?
My car is audi a4/b7 2007
Any help would be appreciated
