Fitted Amp And Sub But Not Working ? No Sound

markm,

markm,

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Hey all

I've just fitted a sub to my A3.. it has an RNS-E which I fitted a while back and I have Fiscon Bluetooth kit.. I dont have bose but it does have a Sub to the left hand side of the boot which I found yesterday behind the trim

I've used the Loom for the fiscon to connect the high level feeds to the Amp to same damaging the car loom and used the rear speaker feeds.. Purple and grey I think it was .. the amp powers up without any issue but there's no sound.

Is there any way to test the speaker outputs with a multimeter to see if there is any voltage running to the amp via the speaker cables ? or do I need to take the feeds from a different location based on I already have an Amp powering a sub,

Thanks in advance
 
i went spliced into the original cabling and mine works fine, but you need LEFT RIGHT and GROUND, so thats 3 cables you need to get the sound.
 
What sub and amp are you using?
How have you powered the amp?

I would run a fused power cable down from the battery to the amp, earth the amp in the boot, I believe you can take the audio feed from the stock sub connector (although I would be tempted to run an RCA cable as a test at least) and the remote feed can be taken from the stock sub connector (although you can put a wire from the 12v to the remote as a test). Then a pair of wires connect the R/L to the sub.

You can use a multimeter set to 20v, black probe goes to an earth and the red probe on any wire that you want to test the voltage of.
 
AK47UK said:
What sub and amp are you using?
How have you powered the amp?

I would run a fused power cable down from the battery to the amp, earth the amp in the boot, I believe you can take the audio feed from the stock sub connector (although I would be tempted to run an RCA cable as a test at least) and the remote feed can be taken from the stock sub connector (although you can put a wire from the 12v to the remote as a test). Then a pair of wires connect the R/L to the sub.

You can use a multimeter set to 20v, black probe goes to an earth and the red probe on any wire that you want to test the voltage of.
Click to expand...

Ive got one of these LINKY and one of these LINKY , 12v Power is from a wire which I've run from the battery,, the switch wire was taken from the fuse board but will later take this from the back of the head unit when I take it out next time. and its earthed in the boot..

I'm running this in addition to the stock sub ... I've only just found it so already ran the audio feed from the quad lock look for the Fiscon BT car kit. I'll test the connections later off the loom to see if there is any voltage come off these cables just to double check.
 
Last edited:
You will want to disconnect the stock sub, no need for it now you have a decent sub in there.

Does your headunit have RCA out and do you have an RCA lead? This will be used to test the audio signal feed to the amp. You could even hook up another audio source via RCA to the amp to test if it's powered on ok and sending power to the sub.
 
AK47UK said:
You will want to disconnect the stock sub, no need for it now you have a decent sub in there.

Does your headunit have RCA out and do you have an RCA lead? This will be used to test the audio signal feed to the amp. You could even hook up another audio source via RCA to the amp to test if it's powered on ok and sending power to the sub.
Click to expand...

No RCA's its an RNS-E so just running it off standard cables off the loom and in to the High level input .
 
Fixed . Schoolboy error on my part lol,, When I used the loom for the fiscon I used the rear channels .. Should have checked the car loom as the only pins that are wired are the fronts , the rear must run through to an amp as these are on a different block under line out lol

All working now :)
 
You can also tap the inputs to the factory amp for the rear channels, they are line level so you won't have to use a line output converter and you'll get a cleaner signal to the amp. Simply cut an RCA cable in half and strip the cut ends to splice into the inputs at the factory amp. Center lead is positive and the strands wrapped around the center lead are negative.

For future reference, if you need to test for signal (line level or speaker level) simply set your meter to AC voltage and put the pos probe to the pos wire and neg probe to neg wire. The voltage will fluctuate, increasing and decreasing with the volume.
 
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