scr8pdo
Registered User
How hard is it to remove the actuator arm so that I can test the actuator arm, if its a total nightmare I will use long nose pliers, thanks in advance, Ste
Always add the crystals to water, never the other way round, and wear goggles, gloves (and an apron if your a clutz) and inject the solution using a plastic paint mixing syringe and follow the original instructions after that.
lol cheers man, I'm an electronics engineer, in process control & automated machinery
That's essentially what I did with my 2.5TDis.
Three nuts to unbolt the exhaust, tuck the tube behind the turbine, squirt and cover with cardboard - before the foam jumps out.
A lot easier than trying to feed through and the result was still a freed-up actuator.
Regarding Tolaks comment,
As I see it, codes and diagnostic computers should be regarded as one more tool to assist in the driving experience - along with tape,penetrating oil and big hammers!
mine is 53plate, so has same cooler as yours, to get easy access like on those pictures i had to completely remove it (left it hanging on rubber pipes only).Sorry to revive an old thread but did your car have an egr cooler? What engine type was it? Bkd? My aluminium pipe goes from the egr valve to the egr cooler and then there's another pipe that goes from the cooler to the turbo which is extremely hard to get access to from the top and i tried already from underneath the car but the frustration got to me so I want to try another attempt from the top regardless of how long it takes
I'm sure I took pics but havent put them on photobucket, will get some up asap tho matey
Here is the bay, the crinkly pipe running vertical is the egr pipe, joins the exhaust mani on the bottom with the inlet / egr valve at the top:
Here in this diagram you can see the exhaust manifold and the egr hole on top, see how it runs down into the turbo, its the only downward hole, visible thru the outer egr hole with a torch: (our UK turbo actuator is up the other way but the manifold and cast iron side of the turbo are the same)
This pic shows the route you want the tube to take quite clearly to enter the turbo on the exhaust side,from the egr hole with the 2 studs, thru into the turbine housing. (never put anything in the intake (alloy) side, only the cast iron half). This is not the exact same as ours, its a vnt20 but close enough for illustration purposes:
I know this is an old thread but this seems the place to post my question.
My 1999 A4 1.9tdi (230k) began to become very sluggish with the turbo only functioning occasionally. After checking for and leaks I decided to try the MM clean, I followed the well detailed instructions and to my delight when I pulled off down the road a few black dust clouds appeared from my exhaust and full power was restored more than the car had previously had in my ownership. The car continued to drive well for a couple of weeks after. Then it started to go back in to limp home mode and now the turbo is not functioning at all and the car makes a loud clacking noise. Power is right down. I repeated the MM clean twice more in the hope that this would help, no improvement.
the curious thing is, If I start the car and floor it round a left hand bend the turbo will kick in and will remain active until about 3.5k revs or until I let it drop back to much lower revs. I'm not sure what to check next, I can't see any possible leaky pipes. Can anyone suggest what tests I can perform and why do I get the loud clacking noise?
DeNi, so you completely removed the egr piper that goes to the cooler from the her AND the egr cooler itself???mine is 53plate, so has same cooler as yours, to get easy access like on those pictures i had to completely remove it (left it hanging on rubber pipes only).
Yes,2 allen bolts on front of cooler, and 2 allen ones under it which conects cooler to that pipe which goes to exaust manifold. And another few small ones which holds cooler at that place. They are under it, which is abit awkward to get to but manageable.DeNi, so you completely removed the egr piper that goes to the cooler from the her AND the egr cooler itself???
Thanks for the info. Are you able to expand on that a bit? Wouldn't I just be able to drop the silicon pipe down the flexi pipe in the photo to feed straight into the turbo?might be easier removing the downpipe on the leon? But yes, that stainless flex-pipe leads to the exhaust manifold