Alignment Settings

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Hi guys, I am going to get the alignment done on the A4 as I have changed a few bits and bobs over the years and I have never ever had it done.

Has anyone got the standard settings please?

I have seen these but wanted confirmation:

Front Axle
Camber -1"35' to -0"45'
Caster 3"28'
Toe 0"05' to 0"15'
SAI 4"1'
Included Angle 2"50' Note this is SAI+Camber.
Toe out on turns -1"50' to -0"50'
Toe Raised 0"00' to 0"14'

Rear Axle:
Camber -1"25 to -0"55'
Toe 0"03' to 0"13'
 
the garage will have them on the computer they use to set the car up with
 
Front Axle
Camber -1"15' to -0"25'
Caster 3"28'
Toe 0"05' to 0"15'
SAI 4"1'
Included Angle 2"50' Note this is SAI+Camber.
Toe out on turns -1"50' to -0"50'
Toe Raised 0"00' to 0"14'

Rear Axle:
Camber -1"10 to -0"40'
Toe 0"03' to 0"13'


my specified ranges look different to your on camber
I usually ask for -1.0 to 1.5deg camber on the back
 
Hunter machines will have the right data, just make sure they select "1BV Sports suspension" from the dropdown and not the standard non-sport stuff.

The only thing thats adjustable on the front is toe. You want a small amount of toe in to keep it stable, or if you fancy a small amount of toe out which can make it feel sharper but can also make it a bit unsettled at speed (toe out will show as red on most alignment machines). They will give you camber readouts but its not really adjustable without shuffling the subframe around, and even then all you can do is balance out the difference.

On the rear you want camber around 1-1.5deg, depending on your lowering they might be off the top end of that, but just get them equal. The toe wants to be set slightly toed in.
 
We have a beissbarth or however you spell it 4 wheel alignment and it seems pretty spot on going to give a shot when i do the rear end refresh next month.

You have tolerances so as long as it shows green you should be ok.
 
Yeah going to go to CLCM and I have adjustable top arms so hopefully they can use these to correct any camber issues.

Quite looking forward to seeing how the car feels after a decent alignment.
 
yea Im needing mine sorted out but im pretty sure ive got another rear wheel bearing to do soon so im hanging off till this is done.
Ill be going to CLCM as well the boy gets a good name and doesnt charge the earth
 
Well just back to work from CLCM. They book in hours so could not do the camber on the Audi setup in that time and I need to take the car back and leave it overnight.

The settings I asked for were:

Front
Camber -1.5
Toe +0.1

Rear -1
Toe +0.05


The alignment place I took my car to is not in degrees but minutes. So would the -1.5 degrees front camber be -1 hour 30 minutes?

And the front toe be 6 minutes?

I got my settings looked at today and they only had enough time to do the toe. Front toe as above +0.1 = 6 minutes and rear +0.05 = 3 minutes via conversion charts.

My camber is not massively away from the -1.5 Front and -1 rear which I was surprised about.

Here is my printout

5DA55AF2-4067-40F3-8A11-83EFCA59DEB3.png
 
not sure I am reading that correctly then

Final camber for the front looks like it has 1deg 24min and 0deg and 6mins
(personally I would want that the other way round....(roundabouts!)

unless you use adjustable hardware when one goes up the other comes down as they are only moving the subframe left and right
 
Hey, the print out is not that clear.

The front Camber is:
L -1°17'
R -1°24'
The toe is +0°06' left and right

The rear camber is:
L -1°21'
R -1°1'
The toe is +0°03'

This is the first time in 10 years of owning the Audi it has had an alignment I think.

I have adjustable front upper arms but and they are wound quite far in so hopefully there is enough adjustment for them to get -1°30' Which should be -1.5°.

The KW coilovers I have fitted are sitting at a reasonable height, probably not as high as some would like but not nearly as low as the H&R. I think my levels are 24 7/8 inches front and 25 1/4 inches rear.
 
~25" is about perfect IMO so your heights sound fine.

As i said on the other forum your rear toe sounds a bit light.

Audi specifys 7minutes front and rear AFAIK.
 
That is very helpful thank you.

I got mine finished last week.

Front
Camber -1° 30 mins (1.5°)
Toe +8 mins

Rear -1°
Toe +4 mins.

These are basically the fast road settings someone put on SRS.

There are track settings where the camber is around -2.5° on the front and the toe is negative.
 
Yeah I know. I wanted the faster road settings though. Not sure if it will make much difference but if standard is +7mins, fast road is +3mins and track is 0. So this way I am almost fast road settings which is what I would prefer.

These are what I read
Our recommendations:.....................................................Street..... Track
Front fender height (add ~1/16" on the front driver side): 25 3/4" 25 1/8"
Rear fender height (Front plus 1/8").................................. 25 7/8" 25 1/4"
Toe front* ("-" signifies toe out)........................................+0.10° -0.05°
Toe rear.........................................................................+0.05° +0.00°
Front Camber**...............................................................-1.50° -2.25°
Rear Camber* (Front less 0.50°)........................................ -1.00° -1.75°
 
less rear toe just makes the back end more unstable though, and you've ended up with more toe in on the front than the rear which isnt really what you want for fast road.
 
less rear toe just makes the back end more unstable though, and you've ended up with more toe in on the front than the rear which isnt really what you want for fast road.

Its feel alright so far but I imagine that would be the case after how out the car was originally. I just had to go with the figures I found on AudiSRS. I am just going to leave them at this stage as already spent £80 on the alignment. 3 minutes works out at 0.05°. I am not sure why the track to street want the more unstable rear figures.
 
Heres my print out from yesterday for the geo, the steering wheel is still not central but think the tyres are in need of changing pretty quickly can the steering wheel be aligned on the splines to rule this out also the front camber laft/right is in the red but cross camber shows as green so i believe this is correct ??

The left rear would not adjust lower than -1.35 and higher than -2.01 were as the right rear would go to -0.40 and -1.50 (rear right spring is the broken one) can any one advise on what values i should be setting it to or look at the values below to see what needs readjusting.

 
Forgot to mention theres no selection on our geo for 1BV its only got 1BA and 1BE (i selected 1BE)
 
You should have a lot more rear camber than you do.

1 to 1.5degrees.

Why arent the front toes set equal? Ones at 5 and ones at 9?
 
Yeah the front toe is equal at +0'09'.

Will get the rear adjusted up the for more camber on the rear right although that shows as red but i suppose its the cross camber that needs to be green ??
 
Oh yeh i see now.

It will show as red because your machine is set to 1BE and is wanting 0.4degrees camber.

1BV is 55minutes +/- 15 minutes. I found with the car being lowered it wasnt possible to get it quite to the factory settings, and i ended up making it 1deg 30minutes even on both sides.

Cross Camber should be 0?

Stick the machine on RS4 if thats available and you should hopefully get the right data.
 
Theres no option for S4 or RS4 just loads of suspension codes under A4 (8D) with choices of fwd, fwd aluminium uprights and quattro, quatto aluminium uprights.

Il try take a pic of the options available so you can cast your eyes over it.
 
yeh 1BE with aluminium thingy is as close as you'll get from that list.

Just get the rear camber up above 1 degree and you should be fine :)
 
Doesnt seem like a compromise to me? Sloppy though!

They didnt bother setting the front toe properly for some reason, and the front camber isnt easily adjustable to not out of the ordinary that they havent done it...

and they havent bothered getting the rear camber even either?
 
Well theres no excuse for the front, theres massive adjustability in the tie rods, no reason at all to have them end up where they are for the sake of an extra half turn to get it round to 5. Unless he chose to set it to 2 and 3 for some particular reason.

The adjustment on the rear is sometimes limited, and lowered cars tend to struggle to get the camber sorted within spec, but even if you cant get it there, you want it to be even on both sides and as close as you can get. On my car, one side at its minimum adjustment would only go down to 1 30ish, pretty similar to yours, so the guy set the other side to 1 30 to match rather than leaving it at 1 07 like your guy has. Its better having both sides at 1 30, even if thats a little over spec, as at least then you know the transient response turning different ways isnt going to change. IE you'll have ended up with more grip turning one way than the other.
 

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