Road/rolling road haldex problem??

possyoo

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Audi s3 amk
took my car for first dyno run today as i been having a strange problem almost as if it was losing boost then gaining boost and loosing it again.

Can be driving down the dual carriage way and when putting your foot down you can feel it kick in and out several times before it will eventually let you go up the rev range. On the 4 wheel drive rolling road you could see where it was cutting in and out. Its getting full power for a standard s3 with 216.7bhp at the flywheel.
When the fuse was taken out for the haldex and rolling road set up for 2wd it was perfectly fine straight up the rev range
has anyone come across this or anybody got any ideas???

Thanks
 
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a lot of 4wd dynos will also show this apparent stepping.... Be sure its not that instead throwing a wobbler.. red herring so to speak
 
well i have had it on occasions when its happened on the road for example putting my foot down to over take someone
 
Only just got back from the run is the haldex system scannable as a seperate item with snap on scanner
 
Only just got back from the run is the haldex system scannable as a seperate item with snap on scanner

No idea which is why VCDS (even VCDS lite) is a better option all round...

<tuffty/>
 
if its an up to date snap on scan tool then yes you should be able to, although VCDS will be 1000 times better, the snap on unit is k for most stuff and IMHO is perfect for the delete it kids (you know the tyre shops that just delete the code and charge you £30) anything more really to beyond it imho
 
I had a problem with a lad called Rob or Ryan (I think) off here with an MTM S3, his car was sometimes boosting low and would feel like the esp was kicking in and causing the car to lose boost and then it would go back to full boost and go like ****. It wasn't causing the esp light to come up on the dash and it wasn't showing any fault codes.

Anyway, we inspected the fuse box above the battery and it was all oxidised, I cleaned the holders terminals on the fuse tray and put a new fuse in it and job done. Have a look to check if it isn't covered in crud or the casing melted.

A lot of people hear hooves and think of zebras. It might turn out to be something as simple as that, it's free to check so give it a go.

That said boost fluctuation is usually a boost leak.
 
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