symptoms of a loose cambelt (petrol 1.8t)

bowen

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Hi Guys,

A few months back I had my waterpump and cambelt replaced. I recently took it to a different garage for an oil change service etc, when I picked it up the mechanic noticed my cambelt was loose. He showed me how slack it was, you could pull at it, no tension at all. It was also nearly slipping off the top cog. It is currently sat there getting the cambelt re done!

Now if it had slipped off I know how bad things could have been. :puke2:

My question is what symptoms could this have caused?

Help appreciated. I have searched but most results turn up derv issues.


Thanks,
 
Only way it could be loose is if the tensioner wasn't replaced and had leaked its oil, then your last garage that changed the cambelt should be shot for not changing it or they did change it and they forgot to pull the pin out to set the tension, easily done and if that's the case no need to replace the belt or tensioner just pull the pin. Surprised the garage doing the work now could tell you exactly what the issue is straight away as its vet very easy to tell if the tensioner is faulty or the pins not pulled!
 
If the belt was slack, you could get running problems if it was moving the timing out of where it should be, the timing may jump, rattling noises from the cambelt area , poor idle etc....., Its possible the tensioner/ damper was worn out / leaking maybe or i more suspect set up incorrectly. It normally takes me a few goes to get the tension spot on ( im happy with it ) on these engines. Let us know if the garage find anything wrong when they re do the belt.
 
I dont understand - how do you adjust the tension? surely it is either on or off, dependant if the pin has been pulled...
 
Interesting, I will let you all know the out come.
 
almost impossible to set the tension wrong on these as the tensioner has a sprung and damped piston unit applying force to the little arm on the tensioner itself. and youd have to be totally incompetant to leave the pin still in the damper/piston unit!

if the oil had all leaked out of the damper it would still be sprung and tension would appear normal with the engine off. it would only flap/jiggle the cambelt as the engines running.
 
could it cause low vaccum and low compression?
 
If it was loose, so basically like being a tooth out you would get an engine management light withing about 20 yards of clearing it. One for incorrect correlation between cam and crank sensors.

Do you have any running issues. Even when the tensioner is depressed you'd find it difficult to slide it completely off.
 
I dont understand - how do you adjust the tension? surely it is either on or off, dependant if the pin has been pulled...

The tensioner on these doesn't work like that, its not like some japanese engines where you just pull the pin out and it will adjust accordingly , You need to set the tensioner up and measure the gap between the tensioner and the damper body, Ive done loads of these belts and this is how ive always done them. I really carn't see a tech leaving the pin in and sending it out , If they did 100% they should not be working on cars:no:
 
The tensioner on these doesn't work like that, its not like some japanese engines where you just pull the pin out and it will adjust accordingly , You need to set the tensioner up and measure the gap between the tensioner and the damper body, Ive done loads of these belts and this is how ive always done them. I really carn't see a tech leaving the pin in and sending it out , If they did 100% they should not be working on cars:no:
Are we talking the same tensioners here? And what damper is this? The 1.8t has a tensioner which is set by pulling the pin and this then pushes up against the bracket on the pulley. You can't set it or adjust it, you fit and pull...and I can easily believe a "tech" leaving the pin..
 
The tensioner on these doesn't work like that, its not like some japanese engines where you just pull the pin out and it will adjust accordingly , You need to set the tensioner up and measure the gap between the tensioner and the damper body, Ive done loads of these belts and this is how ive always done them. I really carn't see a tech leaving the pin in and sending it out , If they did 100% they should not be working on cars:no:

What you talking about? You pull the pin out and thats it. No adjustment is required.
 
The tensioner on these doesn't work like that, its not like some japanese engines where you just pull the pin out and it will adjust accordingly , You need to set the tensioner up and measure the gap between the tensioner and the damper body, Ive done loads of these belts and this is how ive always done them. I really carn't see a tech leaving the pin in and sending it out , If they did 100% they should not be working on cars:no:

I'm looking forward to hearing how you adjust the tensioner, what you measure and what the measurement should be...

You are talking about an Audi 1.8T engine i presume???
 
id like to know how he noticed it
when he was doing an oil change
 
id like to know how he noticed it
when he was doing an oil change

OK,

When doing the oil change I also asked the mechaninc to replace a leaky rocker cover gasket. He removed the cambelt inspection cover to get better access.
 
I'm looking forward to hearing how you adjust the tensioner, what you measure and what the measurement should be...

You are talking about an Audi 1.8T engine i presume???
Yes bowman has said his engine is a 1.8t b6 a4. Ive just rechecked my autodata and elsa and you do need to set up the tensioner on these, I don't know what you guys make it sound like im wrong as ive always done it this way, I know what you guys are on about regards the tensioner, the only time ive come across this where you just put the pin out is on the v6 and yes no adjustment is required, and again a tech leaving a pin in certainly doesn't know what he is doing and should not be doing cambelts this is my opinion.
 
Got the car back, pulls much harder.