well the pipe round to the cooler looked pretty baggy, and then also inside the inlet, so bobby fizzle knows, im just gonna let audi have it for a techy diagnosis, if i go in there with some nouse as to what im talking about they may work with me a bit and maybe cut the BS.
Audi A4 B7 2.0 TDI PROBLEMS PROBLEMS PROBLEMS.... HELP!!!!
- Thread starter raffhussain
- Start date
z1mma
Registered User
about a year ago on my way to bristol, after slowing down for police to pass me , it seemed i wasent driving a Turbo diesal but just a normal diesal, no power at all, took ages getting back to speed, it happend few more times during that month, then all of a sudden no problem since that day ... guess it cleaned it self. 
/Azeem
/Azeem
i wish mine would fix its self im driving a 170 model feels like a 1.0 metro, turbo has been sent to turbo tecnics for refurb at a wopping £450 see what happens when it comes back and after i refit turbo,only had the car since dec starting to wish i never bought the piece of cr@p should of stuck with the impreza
Chrisk
It maybe that the flap in your egr is seized shut or that the motor that operates it has sheered it's teeth on the cog that operates the flap as they are made of plastic if iirc, this happened on my mates a3 2.0 TDI although that did blow a fuse and bring the engine management light on.
It maybe that the flap in your egr is seized shut or that the motor that operates it has sheered it's teeth on the cog that operates the flap as they are made of plastic if iirc, this happened on my mates a3 2.0 TDI although that did blow a fuse and bring the engine management light on.
i spoke to my friend he said it was his intake flap that had seized and caused a fuse to blow which brought on the engine managment light and also his econ light as the aircon fan runs off the same fuse.
is this the same for you? if not i may be barking up the wrong tree but no doubt someone will put me right.
is this the same for you? if not i may be barking up the wrong tree but no doubt someone will put me right.
il have a wee look tomorrow, but no lights on dash and no faults stored on the ecu, i need to strip the motor i think and check that, it WAS seized solid, but iv cleaned it and it does seem to operate manually and i did hear i motor type noise from the motor so i guessed it was fine???????
Probably best to check the egr again, just see if the cogs move easily (there is plastic cover on one side, gently take this off and you can operate the cogs with your finger). If the cogs aren't easy to move then that's possibly your problem. Did you clean the EGR with carb cleaner?
iv removed the injectors and there going to get sent off now to be checked and refurbed if needed. so whilst its in bits il have a look at the egr again, i used good old fashioned coca cola. works a treat.
Hi guys,
I am conscious I havent updated on my issues for a while. As can be seen form my post way back at the start of this thread my car is under warranty and was experiencing a lot of the issues attributed to idle problems etc. To date I have had replaced under warranty: injectors, harness, dpf sensor, egr valve, tandem pump yet the rough idle still persisted. Over the last couple of weeks I have been aware that the car feels sluggish at motorway speeds where it should be in its power range, I asked Audi to look at this for me, which they did, but as there was no Engine Management Light it appeared that all parameters were within spec.
This weekend after a long journey down to England the Glow plug light started flashing and the car lost any power, almost like driving an old non-turbo diesel. SMooth revving but very slow revving. Switched engine off, back on again light out and running fine.
Booked my car into Audi today as they now have a fault code to look at and it appears that the inlet manifold has a crack in it. When I get the car back tomorrow I will let everyone know if the lumpy idle has been resolved with this being changed.
Dougie
I am conscious I havent updated on my issues for a while. As can be seen form my post way back at the start of this thread my car is under warranty and was experiencing a lot of the issues attributed to idle problems etc. To date I have had replaced under warranty: injectors, harness, dpf sensor, egr valve, tandem pump yet the rough idle still persisted. Over the last couple of weeks I have been aware that the car feels sluggish at motorway speeds where it should be in its power range, I asked Audi to look at this for me, which they did, but as there was no Engine Management Light it appeared that all parameters were within spec.
This weekend after a long journey down to England the Glow plug light started flashing and the car lost any power, almost like driving an old non-turbo diesel. SMooth revving but very slow revving. Switched engine off, back on again light out and running fine.
Booked my car into Audi today as they now have a fault code to look at and it appears that the inlet manifold has a crack in it. When I get the car back tomorrow I will let everyone know if the lumpy idle has been resolved with this being changed.
Dougie
lol.
hi all, im new to the audi thing, not long purchused my audi a3 2.0 tdi 140, 2005 sline, i love the car but only justb noticed this simalar problem, 5-6th gear at low revs causes a judder, raffhussain, did cleaning you EGR valve cure this at all, i thought it was the injectors as its a common problem but on the newer engines, im confused if its the dual mass flywheel, injectors, EGR valve or anything else, help much appreciated. cheers
Thanks Wrath, ill give it ago later in the week when i have time off and let you know if i feel any difference, also been reading about the MR MUSCLE for cleaning out the turbo and that, good idea in you opinion or not? cheers for the replies
Thanks Wrath, ill give it ago later in the week when i have time off and let you know if i feel any difference, also been reading about the MR MUSCLE for cleaning out the turbo and that, good idea in you opinion or not? cheers for the replies
As promised an update on mine. Got the car back from Audi. Apparently there is a small plastic diaphram that sits inside the inlet manifold on the 170 engine which works under vaccuum. The end of this can be seen to the front of the manifold but the majority of it is internal. It appears from what I picked up from the description that the valves (butterflies) inside this manifold become clogged due to carbon build up, this causes the vaccuum to work harder to open and close these, until it gives way at the weakest point, the plastic diaphram. It will cause hesitation and lack of power as the butterflies are not being opened as quickly/fully as they should on full throttle.
The result is I now have a shiny new manifold as it is a complete unit. The car feels more responsive, better power delivery and pulling very strongly now. I do think the tickover on the car "flutters" still, so I am not convinced that any of the parts I have replaced on the car have contributed directly to this, but it does feel significantly better than it did when I originally bought the vehicle.
Dougie
The result is I now have a shiny new manifold as it is a complete unit. The car feels more responsive, better power delivery and pulling very strongly now. I do think the tickover on the car "flutters" still, so I am not convinced that any of the parts I have replaced on the car have contributed directly to this, but it does feel significantly better than it did when I originally bought the vehicle.
Dougie
I didn't use Mr. Muscle mainly because I didn't want the possibility of shafting my engine using a non-engine designed cleaner. Buy a can of Wynn's Carb and Fuel Injector cleaner from Halfrauds.
Thanks Wrath, ill give it ago later in the week when i have time off and let you know if i feel any difference, also been reading about the MR MUSCLE for cleaning out the turbo and that, good idea in you opinion or not? cheers for the replies
not tried it either. dont want to risk any damage, ive tried a few cleaners, top 2 are forte and BG244. used BG244 recenctly and it does want it says on the tin.
Hi ppl
Update for you, 2 weeks ago turbo blow, was in 2. lol. was able to source a new turbo. futted last week and then found out one of the pipes had a leak. Got a pipe from fleabay 20 quid. stealers wanted 130. lol. fitted it last night. also had a problem with MAF when id take the MAF out the car would make a humming noise and when it put it back in it would disappear. but this was when i 1st started the car so ECU wasnt picking up any faults with the MAF. after i drove the car i then rechecked the MAF the car would sound the same with or without the MAF. cleaned my MAF with contact cleaner. WOW what a difference. car pulls better than before. idle is alot better. car would missfire before betweem 1500-2000rpm. this has now disappeared. use to puff black smoke on acceleration, this has also disappeared. im well chuffed. lol. hope it lasts. lol. well Ive got engine management light on, but not effect the cars driving. I can live with that and might be due to the MAF but will find out more after it get it VAG. Thanks for all your input ppl. been a great help
Update for you, 2 weeks ago turbo blow, was in 2. lol. was able to source a new turbo. futted last week and then found out one of the pipes had a leak. Got a pipe from fleabay 20 quid. stealers wanted 130. lol. fitted it last night. also had a problem with MAF when id take the MAF out the car would make a humming noise and when it put it back in it would disappear. but this was when i 1st started the car so ECU wasnt picking up any faults with the MAF. after i drove the car i then rechecked the MAF the car would sound the same with or without the MAF. cleaned my MAF with contact cleaner. WOW what a difference. car pulls better than before. idle is alot better. car would missfire before betweem 1500-2000rpm. this has now disappeared. use to puff black smoke on acceleration, this has also disappeared. im well chuffed. lol. hope it lasts. lol. well Ive got engine management light on, but not effect the cars driving. I can live with that and might be due to the MAF but will find out more after it get it VAG. Thanks for all your input ppl. been a great help
It a simple clean. It located on the air box. Below is the diy
How To Clean or Replace a MAF Sensor for VW or Audi DIY
Raff - when you say low revs in all gears, how low are we talking? my 1.9tdi seems to have developed a shudder and loss of power at 1800-2000rpm in 4th and 5th gear.
I had the car checked by 2 mechanics, one seems to think its the EGR valve and the other thinks its my remap (remap company don't want to know because its 1 month out of warranty, b*****ds!).
I'm not really getting any black smoke apart from sometimes on start up when it decides to stink the garage out
if they think is the EGR give it a clean and check to see if the flap opens and closes. its not hard to take apart. For the 1.9tdi there is a D.I.Y and i will try and post for you. its cheap option. mine did it at low RPMs. it would feel like car misfired and sometimes car would start jerking. Ive had it sorted now after the turbo blow. changed and its not done it since. the cause was sticky turbo vanes. yours sounds like something my brother came across driving on the motorway in his 1.9tdi. loss of power. if he restarted engine it would regain power and then would happen again. after taking turbo off, vanes were fine. actuator was slightly sticking. which were causing overboost so was going into limp mode, changed this with my off old turbo and new MAF. car drives better than before. Also relating the remap, mines been mapped and now turbos been replaced it drives better than before.
hope that helps
I'm gonna give the EGR valve and inlet manifold a clean at the weekend seeing as it costs very little to do. I had a look in the B6 forum on how to clean the EGR valve and theres a few guides in there relating to the 1.9.
Mine isnt going into limp mode, it just feels like its in too high of a gear and the car starts to shake as goes the gear lever. Its funny as it only does it between 1800-2000 rpm which i think is when the EGR valve opens. The car also seems to have lost the urgency it used to have after i got it mapped.
I've had the car scanned with VAS and its not overboosting or leaving any fault codes. Will see how the clean of the EGR valve goes, if its successful i may look into blanking the valve off altogether.
Mine isnt going into limp mode, it just feels like its in too high of a gear and the car starts to shake as goes the gear lever. Its funny as it only does it between 1800-2000 rpm which i think is when the EGR valve opens. The car also seems to have lost the urgency it used to have after i got it mapped.
I've had the car scanned with VAS and its not overboosting or leaving any fault codes. Will see how the clean of the EGR valve goes, if its successful i may look into blanking the valve off altogether.
Hi mate, it was free, I have a used car warranty from Audi. But, I think the part is in the region of 500 pounds plus VAT and fittting, so quite an expensive bit. Like most bits!
That said, I still have the lumpy idle even after all the parts that have been replaced.
DOugie
That said, I still have the lumpy idle even after all the parts that have been replaced.
DOugie
Hi
I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TDV TDI Saloon, Recently had the timing belt changed as the engine was shuddering and it was coming up to the 75k mark, hoping this would resolve the problem, it did........for 1 day! since then if im accelerating up to 3000 revs in 3rd gear the engine gives a shudder as if it cant give any more power, didnt this before, also does the same in 6th gear if driving above 70 MPH. ive had various people advising deferent things like mis firing or clogged air filters and not enough air flow, checked the air flow which seems to be fine not the mis firing as not the best with mechanical jobs. Any suggestions at what the problem could be?
Another problem i have is a knocking noise coming from the front offside wheel area. I had been told this could be a CV joint, but after looking into this i dont think it is. The noise is like metal tapping metal. Now ive had my local mechanic check all the ball joints, suspension arms springs and everything he could in the area and he cant seem to find any problems. Anyone had a similar problem that can help me out?
Thanks
I have a 2006 Audi A4 2.0 TDV TDI Saloon, Recently had the timing belt changed as the engine was shuddering and it was coming up to the 75k mark, hoping this would resolve the problem, it did........for 1 day! since then if im accelerating up to 3000 revs in 3rd gear the engine gives a shudder as if it cant give any more power, didnt this before, also does the same in 6th gear if driving above 70 MPH. ive had various people advising deferent things like mis firing or clogged air filters and not enough air flow, checked the air flow which seems to be fine not the mis firing as not the best with mechanical jobs. Any suggestions at what the problem could be?
Another problem i have is a knocking noise coming from the front offside wheel area. I had been told this could be a CV joint, but after looking into this i dont think it is. The noise is like metal tapping metal. Now ive had my local mechanic check all the ball joints, suspension arms springs and everything he could in the area and he cant seem to find any problems. Anyone had a similar problem that can help me out?
Thanks
Thats weird Nathan,
I have been having the same problem. The noise does not always happen, it is most noticible when going over light bumps or rough surfaces but when larger bumps are hit it doesnt make the noise. As a result Audi have changed a driveshaft as they said it had excessive play and have now changed the caliper carrier as they said it had excessive wear on it also. It is still there. I think that the problem is brake pads rattling. Have you tried touching the brake pedal lightly when the noise happens? I have found that this stops the noise.
As for your missfire, it really could be any number of things, it does sound quite like my problem which was resolved with the inlet manifold being replaced.
Dougie
I have been having the same problem. The noise does not always happen, it is most noticible when going over light bumps or rough surfaces but when larger bumps are hit it doesnt make the noise. As a result Audi have changed a driveshaft as they said it had excessive play and have now changed the caliper carrier as they said it had excessive wear on it also. It is still there. I think that the problem is brake pads rattling. Have you tried touching the brake pedal lightly when the noise happens? I have found that this stops the noise.
As for your missfire, it really could be any number of things, it does sound quite like my problem which was resolved with the inlet manifold being replaced.
Dougie
Hi N4th4n
did you ever find the cause of the knocking? I have the same car and in cardiff maybe there something in the water or diesel! :|
had my injectors done foc by audi when there was no problem now the car feels slower and getting underboost issues! time to clean out the inlet and egr I think
Welcome to the forum. You can find pretty much everything there is to know about the oil pump issue by reading the sticky thread on the subject at the very top of this forum.
Hello everyone,
I have a audi a4 2.0 tdi on a 2005 plate and only drove the damn car for a month until the car over revved and blew the engine up I have replaced nearly everything and still the car is not running correctly. I have read about the balance shaft/oil pump issues if there is a common fault on these cars we need to do something about it like contact Domonic littlewood - 020 75987210.
I have a audi a4 2.0 tdi on a 2005 plate and only drove the damn car for a month until the car over revved and blew the engine up I have replaced nearly everything and still the car is not running correctly. I have read about the balance shaft/oil pump issues if there is a common fault on these cars we need to do something about it like contact Domonic littlewood - 020 75987210.
Can you have a look at my A4 170 se had the dpf removed, but running a bit rough and lumpy think it's the egr carboned up
steve
steve
Seems like as good a post as any to put a question out there...
A4 B7 TDI 2.0 170 2008 - have a noise under acceleration/boost - can only be described as kind of a grinding/spinning noise (don't think I could call it a whooshing) - have just had the turbo swapped under extended warranty but noise still there - any experts point me in the right direction? What would a boost leak sound like? Many thanks
A4 B7 TDI 2.0 170 2008 - have a noise under acceleration/boost - can only be described as kind of a grinding/spinning noise (don't think I could call it a whooshing) - have just had the turbo swapped under extended warranty but noise still there - any experts point me in the right direction? What would a boost leak sound like? Many thanks
Unlike the stealerships the guys (Matt and Dominic) @ London re-maps did a fantastic job on my 2006 170 A4 even when there was an electrical fault I tried but only realised that the 15Amp fuse near the ECU was blowing, they traced the fault, engine mount sensors that were faulty had to leave the car with them for 3 days to trace and repair but it was well done, great economy and power returned after dpf delete and it costs me only £100 for the repair after the dpf delete.
