best way to do this engine swap

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teo420

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got the new engine today :) APU with 84k miles
doing the swap on saturday... trying to think of fastest way to do this

1st option pull only engine out meaning to split tranny off it in engine bay
2nd option to pull engine and tranny at once and dissasemble after

???
 
I've done a few now and left the tranny in place.

Its pretty easy to get at all the bolts on a 4cylinder.
 
ive always left the transmisson in place... easy enough access to the fixings on the bellhousing.
 
I'd say pull the tranny out with the engine then swap it over to your other engine while it's out that's what I'd do rather than leaving the tranny off I'd look at doing the clutch and timing belt at same time whilst you've got the front end of and be giving that engine you've got a good check over before you put it in !
 
Its just more work though. You've got to split the driveshafts off, detatch the gear linkage (one bolt of which is a COMPLETE ****), split the clutch hydraulic circuit, drop the prop out if its a quattro etc etc, then refit all those items again after.

And then you still have to unbolt the engine from the box anyway once its all on the floor.

Unless it needs to come out, or your dealing with a V6 motor where access is ****, leave the tranny where it is!
 
Wonder what idiot at Audi's design team figured that was a good idea, must have spent about an hour trying to remove the bolt without bending the bracket (which I ended up doing) Another other fantasic design feature is haveing to drop the subframe to remove the front-end lower rear arm.
 
Which bolt/bracket? the stabiliser i mentioned is a solid rod bolted to the side of the tranny.

Yeh, and more stupidly, if you fit the bolt for the lower rear arm backwards, you dont need to touch the subframe!
 
I think I have to see tomorow after i prep the motor to come out will see if there is really enough room to get to the tranny bolts
I prefer to split it in the engine bay...
dont wanna do all the extra work with removing tranny... axles.. all that stuff

btw aragorn its not a quattro and not a V6 just a good old 1.8T

keep in mind im doing this in the shop I work at, there is plenty of space and tools to use :)
jack stands.. engine lifts, all necessery stuff

Ill have most of the day to do it and help will be just a foot away
I got started on it today had an extra hour of work
bumper was a ***** to pull off as the previous owner changed the timing belt himself and messed up everything...
most bolts were wounded badly some where missing completly wires hanging everywhere all around the fan
total mess in there
I hope i get it cracking fairly quickly tomorow
 
Theres definately enough room to get the engine to transmission bolts out with the engien in the car.

I've personally done it twice.

The only thing you need to do is lift the engine slightly to get access to the four bolts that go thru from the sump into the gearbox, as the crossmember is in the way otherwise.
 
Ye as Aragon says really just remove the two 13mm nuts of the bottom of both engine mounts and use a tranny jack (I use the a/c pump mounting bracket) jack it up and you should have enough clearance for the bottom 4 bolts patience is necessary lol then just lower the engine back down till your ready for out !
 
got the engine out today without the tranny... took me about 4 hours
(wasnt in a hurry... didnt wanna fukup anything)
managed to get the new engine on there took me about 15 min to connect it back to the tranny
when I got to the turbo and took it off .... surprise surprise the nut on the shaft was missing
maybe that caused the engine to fuk up???
most wires are now connected... i got the starter back on and the AC
will have some more time to work on it tomorow so I can do my timing belt, tensioner, a/c belt, power steering belt and maybe assemble the front end
dont know if I will have enough time as boss says half day tomorow

old engine coming out

IMG_0452.jpg
gutted
IMG_0453.jpg

where is the nut ???
IMG_0450.jpg

new engine going in
IMG_0454.jpg
 
I can't see how the nut could make it from there into the engine as all of the fins on the compressor wheel are still intact, and besides, dont think it would get past the intercooler. Done a good job there though Teo, like the novel hoist arrangement. These are one of the easier cars to do an engine pull on IMHO.
 
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yea getting there
will be completed tomorow
new turbo came in today
had to swap the exhaust housing from the old turbo as this one was second hand and housing was cracked in many places
few pics
old turbo is totally destroyed after i opened it today here is what I discovered
broken in 2 places---- both turbine wheels where broken off

IMG_0467.jpg
IMG_0468.jpg
IMG_0470.jpg
 
Last edited:
what a mess huh ? LOL
its all put back together
now all i gotta do is drop it in the car put some oil and coolant in engine and start the fuker up


anyone up for a race :racer::superman:
 
Ouch yeah that's shot. That's what happens when the turbo runs devoid of oil (usually the sludge monster striking) just make sure when it's running properly, that you do regular oil changes. Lol. As for the race, you got no chance. I'd leave you for dust lmao (you should treat it gently first of anyway :))
 
car is running
started up right away
having problems with the oil temp gauge.. voltage gauge and temp light that stays on
any ideas what this might cause these problems
all cables are connected 100 % sure
IMG_0471.jpg
of that
 
Check the voltage with a voltmeter, if its actually up at 16v+ as the guage suggests then stop driving it until you fix the alternator or you'll cook the battery and electrics.
 
x1 with what aragorn has said about the alternator.

The coolant warning in the centre, could be you missed the connector on the bottom of the coolant header? god knows i've done that a few times lol.

Whats up with the oil temp? is it not moving?
 
audi upgrades
Mine sits at 90 after about 10mins of driving and stays there. If it stays below 90 after 10-15mins driving its possible your thermostat is getting a bit lazy and the engine is running cool. The coolant temp guage lies, and displays 90 for a range of "normal" temps, whereas the oil one doesnt lie, and shows the actual temp.

You need to fix the voltage problem before you break things.
 
got the alternator and battery all checked out today
its just a bad gauge all voltage from alternator to battery is normal (battery gets a charge of 13 - 14 volts) so thats all normal
I noticed that when the car is shut off with the key out of the ignition the voltage shows 8v... so i figured just the needle is messed up and doesnt work properly... will have to take the cluster out this weekend and try to adjust it... I also need to try and fix the pixel issue
got rid of the coolant light (it was just me being stupid and forgot to hook up the wire to the coolant tank) :D

lots more work will need to be done to this car to get it in shape but all coming together nicely
front bushing on anti roll bar need to be changed and there is a rear wheel bearing that needs changing
ton of body work (adjust front bumper... head lights...detailed cleaning and polishing...ext. )

already loving the car and its 150 HP :kissmyrings:
 
teo420 said:
got rid of the coolant light (it was just me being stupid and forgot to hook up the wire to the coolant tank) :D
Click to expand...

I knew it :lmfao:

Personal preference, but i wouldnt bother with the LCD repair. Its only £50 if you can do it yourself, but its tricky unless you have a bar type soldering iron. and to have it repaired, your looking £150+, yours doesnt look too bad tbh, theres a hell of a lot worse ones.

Love my A4 with its new clutch and 17psi of boost :racer:
:kissmyrings:
 
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