Unusual Whistle, help please!!
- Thread starter S3 finatic
- Start date
I replaced the whole turbo by doing the following
Ebayed a new stuffed turbo
brought a bearing kit and compressor wheel and turbine brand new
assembed the new bits into the stuffed turbo
sent it off for balancing
cost £300
but then with the old turbo I installed new bearings and seals and cleaned it up and sent that off for balancing.
Its on ebay now if your interested - sorry for the blatent plug! my user name is the same on ebay.
Ebayed a new stuffed turbo
brought a bearing kit and compressor wheel and turbine brand new
assembed the new bits into the stuffed turbo
sent it off for balancing
cost £300
but then with the old turbo I installed new bearings and seals and cleaned it up and sent that off for balancing.
Its on ebay now if your interested - sorry for the blatent plug! my user name is the same on ebay.
S3 finatic
Limp mode
How much was the bearing kit, compressor wheel, and turbine?
And what was the charge for balancing?
Would rather save a few pennys by fixing mine..
Cheers
And what was the charge for balancing?
Would rather save a few pennys by fixing mine..
Cheers
If you can be without the car for a week you could get it done for £260 tops if you got new bearings, compressor wheel,turbine shaft and balance. Balance is £50 from redesigns Blackpool. You may get away without turbine and and compressor but that's a judgement call on your behalf. Probably ok if no tight spots when turning it.
Everybody goes on about shaft play which may be a red herring . The big play in these is in-between the bearing and the bearing house. I believe that this is normal and is the same on new turbos as old ones. With this in mind I think journal bearing garretts don't have to wear much to start whistling and sirening. I use radesigns because they state that they don't sell cheap crap. I like this because there is a lot of Chinese rubbish flooding ebay and who wants that on their car. I also believe that some cars will have noisy turbos because of the adding up of manufacturing tolerances in each part, this is kind of born out by the amount of people driving round with the car sounding like a police car with no failure for years.having said that I feel a lot better now mine is a lot quieter
Everybody goes on about shaft play which may be a red herring . The big play in these is in-between the bearing and the bearing house. I believe that this is normal and is the same on new turbos as old ones. With this in mind I think journal bearing garretts don't have to wear much to start whistling and sirening. I use radesigns because they state that they don't sell cheap crap. I like this because there is a lot of Chinese rubbish flooding ebay and who wants that on their car. I also believe that some cars will have noisy turbos because of the adding up of manufacturing tolerances in each part, this is kind of born out by the amount of people driving round with the car sounding like a police car with no failure for years.having said that I feel a lot better now mine is a lot quieter
S3 finatic
Limp mode
Cheers James.
Apart from the whistle/siren noise my car runs fine, and is not noticably lacking in power. However the noise is irritating more because it is more audible when stationary, or accelerating away from junctions. General driving it is not noticable.
When i stripped my turbo i could not see any wear or faults with the compressor wheel, and turbine. But you have to ask your self, if you were changing a thrust bearing would you leave the old clutch in?
Also since i stripped and cleaned the turbo/vanes, it has not gone into limp mode! And i have tried really hard..
If the compressor wheel, and turbine were not replaced, or sourced seperately, is it possible to get the part numbers off the old bearings, and source a better quality bearing from a bearing specialist? If there is such an issue with the right or wrong bearings.
Sorry for all questions, but i am trying to get an idea of the best path to follow.
Apart from the whistle/siren noise my car runs fine, and is not noticably lacking in power. However the noise is irritating more because it is more audible when stationary, or accelerating away from junctions. General driving it is not noticable.
When i stripped my turbo i could not see any wear or faults with the compressor wheel, and turbine. But you have to ask your self, if you were changing a thrust bearing would you leave the old clutch in?
Also since i stripped and cleaned the turbo/vanes, it has not gone into limp mode! And i have tried really hard..
If the compressor wheel, and turbine were not replaced, or sourced seperately, is it possible to get the part numbers off the old bearings, and source a better quality bearing from a bearing specialist? If there is such an issue with the right or wrong bearings.
Sorry for all questions, but i am trying to get an idea of the best path to follow.
Looks like you have cleared the limp home fault by cleaning the vanes so thats one job done.
You wont get this bearing from anybody other than a turbo parts person - they are turbo specific but you can buy them seperate from turbines and wheels.
New bearings alone are unlikely to cure a siren sound. i know this because i have tried it in a Volvo 1.6d Garrett gt1544v and it made no difference.The large amount of slop inbetween the outer of the bearing and its housing is by Garretts design and whilst i think its poor engineering i would think there is probably a reason they did it. So getting one made oversized probably isnt a great idea(it passed through my head to do this) - things expand when they get hot...
If the turbine shaft diameter is the same on yours as a new one you could risk getting away with getting it balanced and new bearings only.
I think the shafts dont really wear (initialy no wear - long term with no oil will leave a groove) as they are a hard chromed finish. the bearing is a brass/bronze journal and you can see wear on the insides of them. You will need a quality pair of calipers/micrometer to measure the shaft though. i cant remember the diameter at the moment.
if the turbo wasnt upside down behind the engine you would take the chance a lot sooner.
The bearing kit includes all new seals and a 360 degree thrust bearing
110 -120 pounds is the cost of bearing kit fitted by yourself then sent off for a balance
You wont get this bearing from anybody other than a turbo parts person - they are turbo specific but you can buy them seperate from turbines and wheels.
New bearings alone are unlikely to cure a siren sound. i know this because i have tried it in a Volvo 1.6d Garrett gt1544v and it made no difference.The large amount of slop inbetween the outer of the bearing and its housing is by Garretts design and whilst i think its poor engineering i would think there is probably a reason they did it. So getting one made oversized probably isnt a great idea(it passed through my head to do this) - things expand when they get hot...
If the turbine shaft diameter is the same on yours as a new one you could risk getting away with getting it balanced and new bearings only.
I think the shafts dont really wear (initialy no wear - long term with no oil will leave a groove) as they are a hard chromed finish. the bearing is a brass/bronze journal and you can see wear on the insides of them. You will need a quality pair of calipers/micrometer to measure the shaft though. i cant remember the diameter at the moment.
if the turbo wasnt upside down behind the engine you would take the chance a lot sooner.
The bearing kit includes all new seals and a 360 degree thrust bearing
110 -120 pounds is the cost of bearing kit fitted by yourself then sent off for a balance
