Clutch pedal sticking down!

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9-Points&Counting

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Hi all,

anyone got any ideas why this is happening? Should I start looking at the clutch end of things first?

Don't need the hassle right now - cold and dark and need the thing for work tomorrow?! :eyebrows:

If anyone out there does know this problem, is it an indicator of worse things to come?!! :banghead:

Thanks in advnce :)
 
Mine has done this twice, touch wood it has'nt done it anymore in the last 6 months.
However my clutch is getting closer and closer to the floor. I have'nt identified the problem yet, but i am having a good look at it tomorrow, so i will let you know of my findings.
 
usually the clutch master cylinder at the pedal
allways seems to happen when cold
i believe its the fluid that causes the fault as you change the brake fluid every 2 yrs for water/moisture
but the clutch runs off same fluid and doesnt get changed
i suspect the moisture in the fluid freezes
ive changed my fluid with brake fluid and pedal never gone wrong
 
I noticed this on my A3. The clutch had started slipping, so I had priced up new clutches and flywheels etc etc.....

Until one day i noticed the pedal would go down, but not return all the way back up. So i put my foot under the pedal and lifted it all the way up, and ever since then its not slipped once!

I do it as a matter of course every few days now just incase!
 
Yep master cylinder, same thing started happening on mothers TT, became more and frequent, replaced master cylinder and hasn't done it since.
 
Could this be linked to the problem i have where the ABS will activate at very low speeds (<5mph) while braking?
 
towcestervag said:
usually the clutch master cylinder at the pedal
allways seems to happen when cold
i believe its the fluid that causes the fault as you change the brake fluid every 2 yrs for water/moisture
but the clutch runs off same fluid and doesnt get changed
i suspect the moisture in the fluid freezes
ive changed my fluid with brake fluid and pedal never gone wrong
Click to expand...

thanks for all the replies peeps :)

Couple of things here mr towcestervag sir...

1) is it easy to get to this clutch master cylinder, i.e. possible diy on roadside job?

2) would a good bleed or fluid change possibly fix it?

3) if the clutch uses the same fuild, how the hell does it not get changed with brake fluid?!

Cheers,
Me
 
Master cylinder is inside the car under the clutch pedal, but you will need to get to the bulk head under the bonnet to release the inlet and outlet for the clutch fluid.
If i'm wrong! i'm sure someone will put me right..

Its always worth trying to bleed first, that does'nt cost you anything.
 
mark_sarah said:
Master cylinder is inside the car under the clutch pedal, but you will need to get to the bulk head under the bonnet to release the inlet and outlet for the clutch fluid.
If i'm wrong! i'm sure someone will put me right..

Its always worth trying to bleed first, that does'nt cost you anything.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply Mark... or Sarah:) Sorry for delay too as been away off somewhere...

Will have a look soon... scratch some skin off etc... :)
 
Had this exact same problem. Over time the clutch would more and more often stick to the floor. I just used to flick it back up with my foot. Took about 2 years for it to finally go and them it failed and stuck itself firmly to the floor and the master cylinder had gone. About 1000quid to get it fixed.

However, one thing I did learn was that RAC does cheap'ish warranties. Get the RAC cover for when you're out and about and you can then buy their warranty. Only thing to watch out for is that you have to call the RAC man out to look at it before the warranty cover comes into effect.
 
I can confirm the inlet and outlet pipe for the master cylinder are on the bulk head under the bonnet, and it is a real bitch to get to.
I did mine at the weekend, and the key is to remove as much as possible to give you as much room as possible. Start it really early, as if your anything like me i had to keep walking off to calm down Lol. Easy job to do, just takes patience, which i have little of. Worth while doing though, as my clutch now engages 2" from the floor, and it is a lot lighter.
 
I don&#8217;t suppose you have photos or possibly instructions in disconnection the inlet/outlet pipes? I&#8217;m quite confident in dismantling the clutch pedal housing, as there&#8217;s a few instruction and photos available. However, I can&#8217;t find anywhere that mention where the inlet/outlet pipes is located within the engine bay, whether it requires to be disconnected from above or below the car. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Also what happens as well is on the back of the clutch pedal there is a metal 'stopper' that hits the stop this falls of and pushes the master cylinder too far and then cant come up again, also its the fluid swapping ends in the master cylinder, its more of a ..... to bleed rather than change, just be patient with the spring on the clutch pedal assembly that come unbolted from the fire wall, then alls easy.
 
rraghvani said:
I don’t suppose you have photos or possibly instructions in disconnection the inlet/outlet pipes? I’m quite confident in dismantling the clutch pedal housing, as there’s a few instruction and photos available. However, I can’t find anywhere that mention where the inlet/outlet pipes is located within the engine bay, whether it requires to be disconnected from above or below the car. Any help would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

alright mate, got some photos of this 4u but dunno how to get em online here. Do you know? The upload image button just asks for a URL location not a file location so thats no use to me. If u dunno either, pm me and I'll send em across. Obviously better for all if i get em up here for future ref etc. so even if u have done it by now can u or someone else tell me how to do this?

cheers.
 
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