ABS Ring, and hello again!

audinary

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Hi Chaps.

Once again I return from a long absence, and once again I need Audi Help. I went through a brief phase of Alfa Romeo ownership, but I've got that out of my system for a while and am back in the old B5.

However. I'm half way through a rear wheel bearing transplant, doing the discs and pads at the same time, and fancied replacing my old, rusty ABS rings. Bought new ones yesterday from Euro's for ten and a quarter quid each.

Thing is, they're totally different to the originals. Here's a piccie.

29012011902.jpg
29012011902.jpg
29012011902.jpg


You see the two in the image, one has radial holes, the other has bumps. I can see how they'd do the same job, but are they interchangable or do I need a different part? I know that sometimes when you buy a part it can look totally different to what you were expecting, e.g cambelt tensioner design was changed later. Is this the case here?

Also, if you guys have replaced yours before, how did you get the new ring onto the hub? Heat or just whacking it with a surgical mallet?

Cheers in advance, hope you're all well.

Chris.
 
Percussive maintainance works for me. !!

You could warm em up to assist if you like. I cannot see any problems as long as you fit the both sides.

Oh and glad you dumped the Fiat,lol
 
As long as they have the same number of teeth it'll be fine!

I found them really difficult to fit, and ended up filing out the inner bore of the ring until it went on easily, and added some superglue to keep it in place.

It may have been my ****** disks that caused the problem however, as they didnt seem very well machined.

Stick the disk in the freezer and put the ring in the oven, that will most likely help get them on there if you dont fancy being as pikey as me!
 
Cheers chaps,

It actually became purely academic about six hours after I posted, I managed to snap one of the new ones in half through being too heavyhanded.

I'm reusing the old reluctors which seem to be far less bastardly in the fitting department. A quick wire brush down and the originals were in reasonable shape, so i'll take the remaining unbroken one back for a refund...

I'm doing the pads and disks at the same time. The stupid ****** Haynes manual (which I still haven't burned yet) suggests I can't change the rear pads without doing strange things with the handbrake cable, involving removing all the exhaust heatshields etc. Anyone else done the job by just bodging the rear caliper pistons open with a clamp?
 
I've never touched the handbrake cable. Just wiggle the caliper off and suspend it out the way.

You cant use a clamp, you need to wind the pistons in. If they're free you can do this with some needle nose pliers, but if they're a bit sticky you might need a proper rewind tool thing.
 
Thanks Aragorn, that's now the plan. It transpires that dad actually has a caliper-winding-in thingy somewhere I can use, I can always adjust my handbrake later if it needs it.

If I carried out every job to the letter of the Haynes manual everything would take at least three times as long as it needs to...
 
The trick is once the piston is retracted, new pads fitted and caliper onto car. DO NOT operate the handbrake until you have given the brakes a really good pumping.

In fact if you can get out for a drive before operating the handbrake in anger all the better.

Once the pistons have wound themselves where they want to be, the handbrake will be good
 
Cheers Mark, that's what i'd hoped. I tend not to use the handbrake much anyway, bad habits from driving all these Mercs at work with auto trannies and strange foot-operated parking brakes...
 

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