Recent content by Warren121

Hi guys I have a couple of Quick questions 1. I have a fixed back rear seat in an A4 B6 saloon. It has a lap belt in the middle. Is there anyway i can switch my seats for a foldable ones which have the proper middle seat belt ? 2. I want to change my concert stereo for the mmi RNS-E. The...

Hi My name is warren and im new to this Audi-sport.net so firstly HI to everyone here and thanks for having me. Im the owner of an Audi A4 1.9TDI sport 130 in sprint blue (the S4 colour) from the factory. Now i realise this car is like rocking horse poo and so im wondering what the car is...

Done this last night - you must disconnect the battery and ensure you look on YouTube on how to disconnect and reconnect the cluster connections or you will confuse your immobiliser and it will put the dash in safe mode immobilising your car ! Yes this happened to me ! Speaker works a treat...

You learn something every day - I've never looked into things like this, just assumed the main dealer if needed - thanks

Do you think VCDS is cheaper than plugging into VAGCOM ? I mean its not often these A4's actually spring an issue... How much is VCDS - sounds like a good tool ! I think if the gauge is intermittently sticking then thats a good enough reason to change with out conclusive evidence but like you...

Edited above - good luck mate .... Btw where in the uk are you ?

Your welcome - a bit of advice, if you can get the car plugged in id imagine the system can be interrogated... Its always better to get definitive evidence of a failure if you can before shedding out for parts, ... Nothing worse than buying parts only to discover its not the problem. In my...

If your gauge sometimes does not settle with ignition off then the gauge is faulty or intermittently faulty .... Just to lead you up the garden path ! Lol

No don't bother - I'm betting on the gauge if you have a new genuine temp sensor fitted... Wiring is extremely unlikely if its untouched

Its the cluster you should change first mate - its very simple to do. Between the 2 clusters of buttons for setting time and on the other the service button is a black panel - that hides 2 screws ... Undo them and pull and it will come out. Change this first to illuminate the gauge.

The heater will back off automatically when the temp is reached and back on if temp lowers. Auto regulates the temp A bit more intelligently, such as only switching the blower on when heat from the engine is available

I've been doing some thinking and I really think that your car is acting normally, the engine temp vs interior heating demand seems normal as mine also does this. Your header tank like mine does not tend to pressurise. If the water is cold and your temp normal id say your engine is cooling...

The condenser is in front of the rad which means the one visible at the front of the car is the condenser - which will be cold most of the time as its part of the air con. You need to feel from the rear with hands clear of the fan to check the rad temp

Just to check - are you feeling the rad from the front surface or the rear ? As the front is the condenser for the air con - Did you have any luck/change with the bleed ?

If his pump was broken he would be boiling over in the expansion tank on longer journeys he's made - not stone cold, even with no pump hot water would expand into the tank. He's also just had it changed so i think the chances are slim