You’d check with vcds/scan tool via the AC module.
The nature of car AC I’m afraid often requires rectification of the immediate fault in front of you before any further comment as to serviceability of the system as a whole can be confirmed. Good practice diagnostics and experience will often...
If you’ve checked the wiring correctly and the sensor is oem, fault must be in the module. Might be worth double checking your work as this isn’t common.
What does live data show for pressure (sorry if mentioned before, I’m on mobile)?
Key out and stick another battery on with jump leads as quick check. If you get your dash lights back and it cranks, then new battery is gubbed.
If not, see above.
If connections at new battery fine and you have no dash lights with ignition on, you have a main relay/ignition switch problem (assumes new battery is okay).
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