Recent content by Tooks

Forgot to say, check the M14 bolts your S3 requires will go through the holes in the wheels you're eyeing up, especially if they're meant for M12 bolts etc.

Wobble bolts should work on wheels with only +/- 2mm PCD difference, as you say. More important is the centre bore size, which needs to be 57.1 or larger with a spigot adaptor. Personally, as the centre bore will be the only thing centering the wheel, I'd look for that to be correct. What's...

Rear toe is adjustable on the S3, and the rear trailing arm bushes are prone to wear as well. First step is to take it for an alignment at somewhere that knows what they're doing, with a Hunter machine preferably. If they can't get it within tolerance, then at least you'll know where you're...

If the garage found no fault with the boot microswitch etc, I'd be more inclined to look more closely at the alarm unit. Yes, you're getting an occassional DIS display that states the boot isn't closed properly, but that could be a separate and independent fault. They are prone to it at this...

On my S3, the brake nipples were M10 and required an 11mm spanner. Safest to get a set of metric from 6mm up, they're not expensive?

Have you seen my edit? What coil over kit is it?

No, you need the rubber spring seat, or it will be noisy as heck. I mean, try fitting the rubber seat to the spring off the car, then insert that whole assembly (ie the rubber seat already fitted to the spring) into place. Try some grease on the locating piece on the suspension arm too, should...

Try taking the rubber seat off the car and try inserting it into the bottom of the spring before fitting the whole assembly into place.

When you lower the car back on the floor with its wheels on, the rubber spring seat should pop up into the spring. I presume you've tried lowering it though? A bit of lube on the rubber might help? If it won't go in, then check they're the right rear springs.

Switch the bulbs around and see if the fault follows or stays on the same side? It's not behind the realms of possibility that one of either the bulbs or ballasts is playing up and it's coincidence it's the same side as your previous issue. Or, there could be a problem with the wiring/voltage...

That's exactly the scenario I had, and modified the genuine centre caps to fit my RS4 reps by trimming the OEM caps, albeit not the tabs that hold the metal ring. There are so many RS4 reps out there though, and all slightly different castings I expect so it can be a problem.

Have a good look at the back of the trims, is there anything you can trim down to make them sit flush? I once had a similar problem, albeit with genuine trims on replica alloys, but a bit of trimming of the plastic on the back sorted it. Perhaps compare the back of the new trims with your old...

45mm will be fine, there's space behind the hub for much more than 3mm to protrude anyway. Spin them once fitted before lowering to make sure nothing is catching.

Mechanically, it's pretty simple providing you have all the right parts, the hardest bit is bleeding the system afterwards. I used a Gunson Eezibleed thing, followed the instructions exactly and it made it a one man operation and worked perfectly with no mess.

Not to mention what must happen to the handling widening the track that much....