Recent content by scotty33

The followers are the hydraulic tappets. Only other thing I can suggest is the vacuum pump? This device is prone to knocking/tapping - I've never heard one but apparently it sounds a lot like tappet noise? BUT the pump is likely to be quiet at idle, then become noisy at approx 2000rpm. It...

Maybe the catalyst is beaking up/loose inside?

Hi, I don't know if the 'S' badges were fitted when it was new, I guess this was an early equivalent of the current S line models? I think the 1BE code in your options list refers to sports suspension, I guess there will be others for the seats etc? The 110kW is engine output in...

In the UK there were 2wd 20v's (7A) both coupe and sedan models. I read that the NM was mainly destined for Italy, also for tax reasons. It was not as far as I know imported into the UK.

It could be a temperature sender (the blue one mounted off the side of the head) or a lambda probe wiring short, but I would check out the ecu relay first, these are notorious for poor soldering which leads to various problems depending on the part of the circuit board affected. The relay is...

Hi Did you fix this yet? If not it could be the hall sender in the distributor? These can be 'borderline' ie faulty but still functioning, but the engine bay heat makes them fail when warm Audi do not sell the hall sender alone, but 'probe distributors'...

Hi You might think so so, but on the 20v cars the distributor (hall sender to be precise) provides the ECU with an engine position reference which means the window for error is quite small. I think the situation is similar on the 16v?

Hi From what you write above, there could still be an ignition problem, I read that the 16v ECU prevents the fuel side of things operating unless the ignition system is healthy. I'm struggling with the idea that the timing may have slipped, but as the car was running and ground to a halt...

Hi Safe is a relative term, but generally speaking, the engine internals are good for 450 hp with good tuning, if there is a problem and detonation occurs, it can all go pear shaped at less hp You would need a bigger turbo and probably higher flowrate injectors to get to 350 hp as well...

Hi My Haynes does not cover the 16v, but the 3A 8v is Bosch motronic, and it suggests fault codes can be read using the blink code method, this may work on your 16v? http://20v.org/tools.htm#VAG1115 Tools and Parts http://20v.org/fault.htm Diagnostic Fault Codes It's worth...

It's hard to say what is wrong, but by doing a cambelt, you may have altered the relationship between the crankshaft and the camshaft - now the cam drives the distributor so this is how it could be throwing the hall sender code. The weird thing is that it did start ok? maybe something...

Glad it's fixed, bet you're glad you did not rip it to bits looking for the 'problem'!

Sounds like the front wheel(s) out of balance, maybe a balance weight fell off?

The cars I've worked on had 12 point splined key bolts, I think the 'XZN' bits in this link is what you would need? http://www.tool-catalogue.co.uk/index.php/cPath/30023_30063_30343/sort/3d/page/1 Draper Screwdriver Bit Sets Draper Tools at discount warehouse prices

Hi You could try http://www.vagparts.com/ VAG Parts OE parts from the people who really know OE parts!vagparts for Genuine Audi parts at a cheaper price, best to ring them for a quicker answer. Or consider changing for a conventional disc brake set up, some info here...