Recent content by OCD-A3

Awesome! Glad that solved it. In the last picture, the screw with the clip looks like it may have come from underneath the shifter bezel/trim. May want to take a look there, I believe there are four of those clips there, one at each corner.

There is a switch that physically depresses when the handbrake is released (down) and opens when applied (up) located under the center console. It's made of plastic and simply clips onto the metal part of the handbrake mechanism. It's possible that it got knocked loose and isn't being depressed...

You need a wiper stalk with the buttons to access the menus, should have an up/down rocker on the end and a reset button on the bottom.

There are multiple inserts for the glovebox dock so you can fit different iPod models. If you don't have the inserts you can get the lot of them from Audi. You should be able to use any of the standard iPods. I'm using a 160gb iPod Classic (6th gen.)

There is a constant 12v at the factory harness, but not an ignition switched 12v (turn on signal comes from CAN bus.) The factory aerial is amplified though, I don't think adding a second amplifier in line will help much. There is an aerial junction box in the hatch, accessible by removing the...

1. You will need a dash kit, harness, and antenna/aerial adapter. 2. Some harnesses retain the steering wheel controls, otherwise you can purchase a separate module to do this. Make sure that the new stereo has a wired remote or steering wheel input. 3. You can likely use the existing GPS...

How brave do you feel about getting into the factory wiring? You could check the key cylinder to see if there is a keysense wire- radio would stay on until you physically remove the key. Definitely use a relay here, should be a low current wire. Alternately, if you can find the door trigger wire...

You can also tap the inputs to the factory amp for the rear channels, they are line level so you won't have to use a line output converter and you'll get a cleaner signal to the amp. Simply cut an RCA cable in half and strip the cut ends to splice into the inputs at the factory amp. Center lead...

Looking good! How's the weight compared to stock?

Did you get this sorted? Sounds like the tape that came out was your slip ring... If so you'll need to replace it. Not sure about the difference in connectors though.

Personally I think flip out monitors look cheap in any car. The bulk of the cost in a DDIN conversion is the climate control module, however you can carefully trim the sides of your existing unit and reuse it.

It is a wear sensor. Some aftermarket pads don't have the wear sensor. On US spec models it is on the front drive side (left.) You can disable the warning by shorting the two wires together, you'll just have to monitor pad wear the old fashioned way. When I last changed my pads, the replacements...

I think those are the balance shafts. Is this a 2.0T? There are a few kits to convert to the 1.8T oil pump, which deletes the balance shafts- loses the rotational mass and gives you added oil capacity.

Indeed, it is the electric heater that sits in front of the standard heater core, provides heat until the coolant gets up to temp. They fail on VW TDIs frequently as well. If you pull the heater, there is a circuit board under a plastic cover on one end, it develops bad solder joints over time...

Looks like there should be wires connected to the solder points in your second picture. See how the traces on the glass run to those points but do not continue between them, just like the first pic? Seems there is probably a similar module missing, did you look behind the trim there? Maybe some...