Sorry to hijack this thread.
What would be a decent clutch upgrade to hold the torque of an engine running about 270 lbf-ft?
I have an AGU engine with a solid flywheel and VR6 clutch plate and disc.
It slips on WOT.
Thanks
Sorry, those pictures are missing. Photobucket stopped allowing shares to forums a while back. I don't even remember my login details :-(
I like forums more than Facebook and Twitter etc. YouTube definitely has its place for good info.
I still have my 8L A3 stored, but I haven't seen it for...
Well done Nick (and all those involved).
This reads like a reality show on the Discovery channel :-)
I wouldn't have been able to leave the car over night not knowing if there was oil pressure or not either.
Just one piece of advice which you are probably already aware of and Bill might confirm .... early in the 1.8T days people were snapping valves due to valve springs not seated correctly.
Sorry if you are already aware but I thought I'd mention it as it's your first time fitting valves to this...
I remember when I was at college many moons ago learning about master cylinders our tutor mentioned not to floor a brake pedal too hard if there is no fluid in the system or when bleeding. Potentially the piston seals can flip over and then it will start to leak.
Not saying you did that, but...
Thanks for the recommendations on groups. I'm not expecting much, just curious to have a poke around.
Nick, I will definitely give you a shout next time I'm over.
Can anyone recommend a Facebook group. I've never read one and I'm curious. I'm enjoying getting back into reading about Audis again.
My car probably won't ever be worth anything, but I'm keeping it anyway :-)
Yeah, shouldn't be much of a task with the proper tools. Still working my way through this thread, so not sure how common these spacers are, but deffo not worth risking damage to it.
What type of metal is the spacer and stud made from? Wouldn't want the spacer shrinking more than the stud. Plus, things get brittle when cold and hammers are involved. I'm thinking the engineering shop might be a better option.
Is there any thread left? Like enough to get two nuts on with the manifold off? If so use the two nut removal method. If not then easy-outs might do it.
Connect the fan directly to the battery temporarily to see if the fan motor is faulty. If the fan runs then it is most likely a duff radiator thermo switch. Other possible causes could be the wiring or a blown fuse.
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