Right then, managed to get the rest of my catch can install finished, so here's what I did.
Decided that I didn't want to mount it with the bracket anymore as previously shown:
And decided to have another go at getting my hand into the pollen filter flap so I could mount straight onto the firewall. Had to remove the TIP so I could drill a hole through the bulkhead. I positioned the hole about 10mm to the right and 10mm down from the right hand stud (which I had previously cut off) There are cable runs behind the firewall which come very close to where you will be drilling. All I did was hold the cables up while I drilled through. Be very carefull when doing this. Don't forget you can still mount using the bracket and left hand stud as shown on page 5 of this thread. You'll wanna use a round file to get rid of the burrs aswell afterwards.
Next was to remove this lot:
Most of you will need to remove this lot aswell, which I had already done. ( I've already written a guide for this part which includes blanking the relevant connections and fitting the brake servo feed pipe with check valve. I think it's on page 4 of this thread):
Then remove the crank breather 90 degree pipe (make sure you don't lose the green o-ring) and the PRV valve as you'll need to reuse them.
Next, attach the PRV directly to the TIP connection, in the same inlet/outlet configuration as before, just without the extention pipe. Point the inlet up towards the catch can:
This is what it looks like from the top:
You can see that all I've done is use a 90 degree 19mm pipe connection to direct the can outlet downwards. You will need to play it by ear for the lengths of hose for this, depending on your can mounting position and TIP. My Autobahn TIP connection is in a slightly different position to the oem one.
Next, use another 90 degree pipe connector to point the can inlet down under the TIP, as shown:
This will come down to the T-piece connection. Make sure you measure the length of hose right so that the T-piece is in line with the rocker breather connection.
Then cut a suitable length of hose to pipe the t-piece upto the rocker breather
The last connection on the t-piece is then to the crank breather. There isn't much room to feed the pipe through to the breather pipe where it normally is because of the coolant pipes that are there. Therefore, when I put the crank breather 90 degree pipe back in, I pointed it outwards towards the front of the car, rather than parallel to the block like it normally is:
With the pipe connected, and the pipe routed underneath the throttlebody area:
Here's the finished product:
The second picture shows the relay box removed which will give access to drain the can (which I'll most likely do on a weekly basis to start with just to be safe).
Apologies for the pictures. I was in a rush when doing it so they weren't as good as they could've been.
If anyone needs me to take any more pics to make things clearer let me know :thumbsup: