Heater blower troubles???

Foxmeister

Foxmeister

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Ok, been a bit quiet lately as ive had a lot on, but finally getting round to getting on with work on the car. Went to give it a charge to get it started but took so long so gave it a jump and took a couple of turns but fired up relatively easily, but once running i noticed the heater blower wasnt working.

I have climate control with air con etc and the panel illuminates as normal, and usually leave it on auto, but no heaters at all. Checked the fuse today and that is fine, are the motors prone to failure easily like this? Is there any tests that can be done before i have to go stripping the f$%ker out?

Any info appreciated.:salute:
 
could be the fan, someone else has changed one recently
HERE
 
For info only......GSF knocks them out for £25 and £35. Put one in a mates 2.6 and he is pleased as punch with it.
 
Cheers guys, but does it sound normal that it just stopped working as ive had no issues with the heaters before, just since i jump started the car? Surely brushes wear out with intermitent trouble?

Suppose it could just be coincidence it happened at that very time if they're prone to just stop?
 
mine just went the other day and it cost 65 all in to get it changed, mine start to make funny noise's and gave up!!!

i think he got it from gsf, belive u have to dis connect the passager airbag tho
 
Also found out theres an in line fuse/thermal cut out thats part of the actual motor, maybe this might be my problem seeing as the unit worked fine up until the jump start?

Will have a look at it tomorrow hopefully if weathers dry.
 
Thats exactly what mine did. Made a funny whirring noise before it packed up. Funny you should mention it dying when you jump started it.....I replaced the battery and a few days later the blower packed up. Ok ok I know changing the battery isn't comparable to a surge in power like a jump start, but its still power related.
 
ive got a feeling that maybe you have had water build up in the scuttle and leak through the pollen filter housing and onto the fan itself as usually the are intermitant before they finally go ie give under the glove back a bas and it fires back up . I know its been really rainy where i am and if its been standing out side for a while it could of happened
 
andybnwc said:
ive got a feeling that maybe you have had water build up in the scuttle and leak through the pollen filter housing and onto the fan itself as usually the are intermitant before they finally go ie give under the glove back a bas and it fires back up . I know its been really rainy where i am and if its been standing out side for a while it could of happened
Click to expand...

I had a look at the drain plugs a few month back but will check again as car is standing, dont use it at all till i build it.
Has been quite wet up here as usual aswell, bit drier today so hopefully holds up to get into it, cheers lads.:icon_thumright:
 
The cheap crap motors are made by Valeo, the same as the originals. Still cheap and crap as they are French which is why they give up so easily.
 
evobaz said:
I had similar problems.

I stuck a set of these brushes in and its been fine for over 2 years now.

I'd rather pay £12.50 for the correct brushes and fit them in the OE motor than opt for some cheap crap motor thats probably made for 20p in China



http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/VW-Passat-Aud...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2c52a84133
Click to expand...

Excellent mate, thanks for the link, still havent looked into the problem yet but will have a go at the brushes if its not a fuse problem.:thumbsup:
 
Okay, finally got round to looking into this as im changing my wood trim on the dash now.

Got glovebox out and out of curiosity i checked the two connections at the blower motor, neg was fine but live was sticky. When i got it off, the rubber surround had melted a bit, into the spade connection, so probably insulating it now. Cleaned it out and re-attached, but dont have my jump leads at the min, so will have to wait till tommorow to get power in the car again.

Could this be down to using the battery neg terminal when jumping, and why most handbooks etc suggest using engine or alternative to ground the car???
 
Unlikely, some handbooks say don't even use jump leads at all as you might damage the ECU, just **** covering.
More likely your brushes are nearly on their way out and the blower is pulling a little more current than its supposed to to compensate, thus frying the wiring. Should have blown a fuse first though.
 
AndyMac said:
Unlikely, some handbooks say don't even use jump leads at all as you might damage the ECU, just **** covering.
More likely your brushes are nearly on their way out and the blower is pulling a little more current than its supposed to to compensate, thus frying the wiring. Should have blown a fuse first though.
Click to expand...

Exactly wot i thought, fuse is the first weak link in any electrical circuit.

Will see how it goes when i get power to it, then look at brushes next. Are they easy to remove and inspect? Any diagrams/write ups???
Heaters were working ok before, but may be the start of them going as you say, so may aswell look at changing them when im there.

Cheers.
 
All fairly obvious once the blower is removed, nothing to see really though as you don't know how worn they are without something to compare them with.
 
Changed the one on mine not so long ago. It was fine for ages then started making an odd clicking sound at low speeds. Then one day it just stopped until I hit a bump then it whirre dinto life and worked for another couple of days before going off again.

So so easy to change, Drop the glovebox and you'r on it straight away. 30 minute job all in at worst. One of the simplest jobs I've done on the old tank to date
 
AndyMac said:
All fairly obvious once the blower is removed, nothing to see really though as you don't know how worn they are without something to compare them with.
Click to expand...

If the brushes are worn down to approx 10mm in length then thats when they'll start to cause problems. new brushes are 22mm long
 
Got this sorted last week, sorry for late reply but had pc issues! Anyway, turned out to just be the insulation around the pos terminal that had melted slightly and wasnt making good contact, cleaned it out and worked fine again so cheap fix, good times!!!
 
I got this problem does anyone know if you have to remove the passager air bracket to get it out.
 
mat_vw said:
I got this problem does anyone know if you have to remove the passager air bracket to get it out.
Click to expand...

There are 2 10mm bolts on the bracket that need to be removed. I'm pretty sure that allowed enough movement in the bracket to let you remove/refit the blower motor. You don't need to take the full bracket out.

I had the same problem with mine a couple of years ago. Fitted new brishes from ebay for £12.50 and its worked fine since.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190373017091&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT
 
Just done this fix as well. New brushes from ebay and a simple job.
I found I had to remove the support bracket for the relay below the airbag (4 10mm bolts) and cut the zip ties on the wiring loom. After that the fan came out easily.
The only other tip is that you will need a soldering iron to remove the old brushes and solder on the new connecting wire.
The old brushes were down to 5mm!
 
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