Braded brake line and brake fluid help.

cheers for the push mate :)

thing is, ive just had a stonkin monthly bonus that would almost pay for another 8L S3 :) trouble is i can find more important things to buy.... its £400 i could put on a holiday :(
 
1animal1 said:
cheers for the push mate :)

thing is, ive just had a stonkin monthly bonus that would almost pay for another 8L S3 :) trouble is i can find more important things to buy.... its £400 i could put on a holiday :(
Click to expand...

...a holiday is for a week or so... a FMIC is for life... (of the car) ;P

<tuffty/>
 
What you do mate is put some money aside for a holiday and some towards a FMIC. Everybody moans that its £400+ for a fmic but who says you have to get it all in one go in 1 month? Save for a few months or a year, who cares, then buy it.
 
that might be an idea ya know, stick away £50 a month....wont feel as bad then....ready for summer :)

hate being tight wi money :)
 
Can anybody confirm if it is necessary to use VCDS to cycle the ABS pump as none of the above guides are specifically for the 8L platform? Also i've read some guides that say bleed brakes first then fill resevouir with fluid and some guides that say empty res then fill res, attach pressure bleeder full of fluid, then bleed brakes! Can anyone clarify?
 
I didn't with mine, should be ok unless you suspect you have let air in tbh... think of it this way... ABS pump only kicks in when required, all other times its essentially pass through...

Just don't let the level go down too much in the reservoir...

<tuffty/>
 
dont empty it ***... pressure bleed it out..
simple gunsons jobbie off tyre pressure will work (not too much pressure else it will make a mess)
 
Cheers guys. So no need to pepet out the existing fluid in the res first, just screw on the pressure kit and fil with fluid, then run round and bleed the old ***** out the nipples? Do I need to do the clutch slave cylinder too as mentioned in some guides?
 
£50 of brake fluid?!! how much did you buy?

Westle said:
Motul RBF660 dot 4 brake fluid delivered = £50
HEL braided stainless hoses delivered = £60
Ezi-bleed kit delivered = £15
Brake cleaner = £5

Total = £130

I'll be ordering the gear later this week and hoping to do it in a few weeks time.
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jesus thats expensive stuff *i need a WTF smile*

the whole system is only 750ml but with a non coloured fluid its hard to tell when the new stuff comes out

do you really feel it was worth paying more than double the cost of anythign else? if that stuff tolerates life in Bills Ibiza, dont you think thats a tad overkill for your car?
 
badger5 said:
dont empty it ***... pressure bleed it out..
simple gunsons jobbie off tyre pressure will work (not too much pressure else it will make a mess)
Click to expand...

I'm guessing there's more chance of me getting air in the system because I need to bleed the lot out to fit my new hoses then put the new fluid through?

Matt82 said:
jesus thats expensive stuff *i need a WTF smile*

the whole system is only 750ml but with a non coloured fluid its hard to tell when the new stuff comes out

do you really feel it was worth paying more than double the cost of anythign else? if that stuff tolerates life in Bills Ibiza, dont you think thats a tad overkill for your car?
Click to expand...

I wanted fluid that wouldn't cause a problem for using the car day to day but I also want it to be able to cope with a few trips a year to the ring and any other hard driving I might do.
 
Westle said:
I'm guessing there's more chance of me getting air in the system because I need to bleed the lot out to fit my new hoses then put the new fluid through?
Click to expand...

Not if you do it right... the eezi bleed thing has a line on the bottle... just don't let the fluid level drop past that....

As already mentioned, don't use more than 20psi so let the tyre down to that before commencing and make sure you put the cap on the reservoir and test its tight enough to hold the pressure before filling the bottle with fluid and doing it properly... save piddling fluid out all over the place :)

<tuffty/>
 
tufftybloke said:
Not if you do it right... the eezi bleed thing has a line on the bottle... just don't let the fluid level drop past that....

As already mentioned, don't use more than 20psi so let the tyre down to that before commencing and make sure you put the cap on the reservoir and test its tight enough to hold the pressure before filling the bottle with fluid and doing it properly... save piddling fluid out all over the place :)

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

I'm being a touch special at the moment! Do I need to bleed out the old stuff first, then change the hoses then fill with new stuff? How can I put the new hoses on without ******* brake fluid everywhere?
 
Westle said:
I'm being a touch special at the moment! Do I need to bleed out the old stuff first, then change the hoses then fill with new stuff? How can I put the new hoses on without ******* brake fluid everywhere?
Click to expand...

Replace the pipes first... to minimise initial fluid loss remove reservoir cap, undo the level sensor then screw the outer part of the cap back on using a bit of a plastic bag over the reservoir... this serves to create a bit of a vacuum preventing fluid from just draining out when you replace the pipes...

Once the pipes have been replaced, start bleeding the calipers using the pressure bleeder one at a time until you are happy that all the fluid has been replaced...

I typically bleed passenger side rear, drivers side rear, passenger side front, drivers side front... on the first one (pass/rear) I bleed through until I can see clean fluid and repeat for the rest... then if I have any fluid left, I just go round them again to be sure that no bubbles remain

<tuffty/>
 
westle, do you have flare nut spanners? theyre a god send when it comes to working on brake lines. i really recommend those.

the most difficult ones would be the two flexi hoses the connect to the rear hard lines that are on the wishbones.

good luck!
 
Matt82 said:
westle, do you have flare nut spanners? theyre a god send when it comes to working on brake lines. i really recommend those.

the most difficult ones would be the two flexi hoses the connect to the rear hard lines that are on the wishbones.

good luck!
Click to expand...

I hope so mate. My girlfriends grandad has a pit in his garage and he used to be a mechanic so he's got most tools.

I cant do the work till next weekend now due to something called valentines day! I've already bought my car a card :)
 
V what day now? i was hoping to put a milltek on the s4 this weekend until i remembered what was going on..
 
Got to fit my goodridge hoses and bleed my brakes sometime over the next couple of weeks, I take it this is the little bit of hose that the kit replaces as its all I could find after spending a good 20minutes looking around the rear brakes.
IMAG0009.jpg
 
Goodridge 4 hose kit, pretty sure thats where it goes on the rear but couldn't find anything whilst trawling the web at work.
 
Effect said:
Bear in mind there are 6 hoses in total
4 of these are sold in the regular kits that you can buy from the likes of goodridge etc.
2 of them are the rear most ones for the rear brakes, they are part flexi and part hard brake line (a;pparently)
The only person who seems to know about these is C&R Enterprises in Nottingham as they told me they have worked in conjunction with goodridge to get them made specially, so if you do change 4 of these brake lines then 2 will still have the flexi part on them.
I got a total price of £270 supplied fitted and full system bleed for these off C&R




website
http://www.candrenterprises.co.uk/

I have used these guys in the past when no one else seemed to be able to bleed my brakes (JBS included) he sorted them for me, the guy who owns it really seems to know his stuff, but I found that they certainly know how to charge you. (I ssuppose no different to any other specialist, JBS charged me over £100 and never actually sorted the problem)


Cheers
James
Click to expand...


do you know how much the 6 piece kit was excluding the labour charges?
 
It is. Mine are seized on at the back so Ill assume everyone elses will be. I would soak them in wd40 a few times before ur ready to remove.
 
audi upgrades
What's the difference between these HEL stainless steel lines and Goodridge stainless steel lines? I was looking at buying Goodridge before as they've always been a popular one.
 
I've seen the Goodridges on Ebay for good prices and in different colours. What's the point of coloured ones? Can you actually see the lines through your wheels or something? Do you just buy 1 pack of Goodridge brake hoses and that's it? You lot are confusing me with 4 in a pack and 6 in a pack lol what's that about?

Cheers folks!
 
My Hel ones have 4 in a pack 2 front and 2 back. I bought black ones because I want to keep the OEM look but i'm not sure how much of the hose you'll be able to see anyway. It's just a plastic coating over the braided hose anyway.

Basically you just want a teflon coated braided hose.
 
braided brake lines are so pretty. was almost a shame to put the wheels back on afterwards :(
 
mine are just straight forward clear ones.

6 line ones are two for the front calipers, 2 for the rears, two for rear the hard lines join onto the rear arms/beam
 
for anyone wondering... the 6 hose kit from C&R Enterprises is £99.95.
They use Goodridge hoses throughout, and I believe the rear hoses with the solid pipe attached are custom made within their premises.
All in all a very good price i think, as a 4 hose kit from goodridge is going to be at least £50-60 and then the rear pipes are £31+vat ish each from the dealer.
I've just ordered a set and will report back once fitted
 
audi upgrades
That's not too bad plunky, let us know about that kit as might need to sell the Goodridge ones as the solids at the rear look like they maybe coroded and need replacing.
 
just run new fluid through the golf, bled the master cyl, all four corners and then the clutch.

total used 800ml, using ATE SUper blue so you know when the new stuff comes through. almost half of the fluid that had to come out came out the first corner (new fluid had to displace everything in the ABS pump i suppose)
 
Here's round 2 of the special questions.. I assume one needs to keep topping up the fluid in the resevoir whilst bleeding?
 
i used a pressure bleeder do i didnt have to touch the reservoir at all whilst bleeding
 
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