I saw them and didnt like them, and TBH i dont want to spend £100 on something that may or may not work.
Replacing and re-coding dash clocks in S4?
- Thread starter calvin
- Start date
The white/light grey ones? I find them too bright and don't like the fact the symbols are visable when not lit etc
more or less sorted Nicks tonight, thanks Mark, i coded the brake pad sensor out and things seem fine. i have taken dumps before and after and will see if any differences later.
i'll email the dump files over with the codings in a hour or so once i warm up.
i'll email the dump files over with the codings in a hour or so once i warm up.
connect to the clusters using vagtacho, load file into vagtacho by opening the file i send you. MAKE SURE it is loaded! other wise you will write a blank file and wreck the clocks. then write eeprom, make sure laptop is plugged into mains or atleast running full battery, any interruption while writing, will wreck the clocks.
if by some fluke the clocks still work after writing the wrong version of the eeprom, then yes recode them, but i really don't expect it to work, i have warned you, but would like to know myself out of curiosity
ANYONE USING VAGTACHO OR OTHER EEPROM WRITING TOOLS, beware this isn't something to just play around with unless you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing, one wrong move and you have a new door stop! some experenced electronic engineers might be able to fix them but this is beyond my experience and tools i have.
if by some fluke the clocks still work after writing the wrong version of the eeprom, then yes recode them, but i really don't expect it to work, i have warned you, but would like to know myself out of curiosity
ANYONE USING VAGTACHO OR OTHER EEPROM WRITING TOOLS, beware this isn't something to just play around with unless you are absolutely sure you know what you are doing, one wrong move and you have a new door stop! some experenced electronic engineers might be able to fix them but this is beyond my experience and tools i have.
I agree with macca, i understand what this may or may not entail.
I have read about immo incompatabilities causing my fault codes on some B6's
A4s had immo 1 till wk 27 1999 and immo 2 past that for a bit. So it makes me wonder if i am attempting to fit an immo1 clockset to an immo2 car. Or are S4s immo2 as std as they are DWW so slightly more updated than the equiv A4
I have read about immo incompatabilities causing my fault codes on some B6's
A4s had immo 1 till wk 27 1999 and immo 2 past that for a bit. So it makes me wonder if i am attempting to fit an immo1 clockset to an immo2 car. Or are S4s immo2 as std as they are DWW so slightly more updated than the equiv A4
argh i see, i think you can put immo2 into immo1 but not other way round. thread on rosstech about that i think, well i know that is the case on golfs.
re cluster dumps, check out my post about 3 or 4 up.
re cluster dumps, check out my post about 3 or 4 up.
Hmm maybe won't risk it then. Need to find out what immo i have in each unit then. Anyone know where to find this kind of info?
rosstech? etka? maybe vagcom'ing it may tell you if you go into the immo module, channel 25? maybe something on the chennel 17 page? i know i pulled a immo code out of Nicks when doing it. can't remember anything though,
calvin
parked up
Thanks (to a now very chilly) Macca!
My clocks all seem to work properly, coding out the brake sensor caused the immo lamp to illuminate, (thought the engine would start and run fine!) but recoding the keys got rid of that.
Losing the brake alert means my radio now comes up on the DIS, and my clock was never broken (i/o - idiot operator error..) so all I have left is the dimmer doesnt work, but I am convinced that is just the potentiometer on the adjuster.
Thank you thank you, you have all been really helpful, especially Simon who I cant recommend enough - he knows his onions and doesnt just leap in and try things without understanding them first - top bloke.
If anyone has blown their clocks up or has a duff spare that I could break apart, I will try and change out the dimmer pot as I cant see that has anything to do with the different clusters, ie it cannot be softcoded, surely!
Please PM me if you have a spare set of ANY A4 B5 clusters that I could test and break if needed.
Good luck Byzan with yours, if my original clocks ever turn up, you have first refusal on these ones - they have your name on them.
PS - I havent ACTUALLY driven the car yet, hope to try it all out properly tomorrow..
My clocks all seem to work properly, coding out the brake sensor caused the immo lamp to illuminate, (thought the engine would start and run fine!) but recoding the keys got rid of that.
Losing the brake alert means my radio now comes up on the DIS, and my clock was never broken (i/o - idiot operator error..) so all I have left is the dimmer doesnt work, but I am convinced that is just the potentiometer on the adjuster.
Thank you thank you, you have all been really helpful, especially Simon who I cant recommend enough - he knows his onions and doesnt just leap in and try things without understanding them first - top bloke.
If anyone has blown their clocks up or has a duff spare that I could break apart, I will try and change out the dimmer pot as I cant see that has anything to do with the different clusters, ie it cannot be softcoded, surely!
Please PM me if you have a spare set of ANY A4 B5 clusters that I could test and break if needed.
Good luck Byzan with yours, if my original clocks ever turn up, you have first refusal on these ones - they have your name on them.
PS - I havent ACTUALLY driven the car yet, hope to try it all out properly tomorrow..
i sit here with cross fingers until he's taken it out
quite enjoy doing all this car stuff, beginning to think i may have a career change at some point, i stopped doing electronics and motor vehicle engineering when i was at college, done a few bits and bobs while in between IT contracts.
quite enjoy doing all this car stuff, beginning to think i may have a career change at some point, i stopped doing electronics and motor vehicle engineering when i was at college, done a few bits and bobs while in between IT contracts.
calvin
parked up
Thanks Mark - please let me know - I drove the car today, and the 20 mile trip was (almost) enjoyable.
Unfortunately in my excitement to have quattro power this morning, I slid sideways out of my road and clipped the kerb, shinning one rear alloy - hopefully I havent done any further damage, but will need a check up (another one for the to-do list!)
However, dash worked fine, car ran fine, so looks like I am sorted for now. Would still love to have my white needles back as it really doesnt look right with the red ones on this.... and now someone has pointed it out I notice them even more!
Cheers Macca again for your expertise and help!
Unfortunately in my excitement to have quattro power this morning, I slid sideways out of my road and clipped the kerb, shinning one rear alloy - hopefully I havent done any further damage, but will need a check up (another one for the to-do list!)
However, dash worked fine, car ran fine, so looks like I am sorted for now. Would still love to have my white needles back as it really doesnt look right with the red ones on this.... and now someone has pointed it out I notice them even more!
Cheers Macca again for your expertise and help!
Do the needles light up white around the spindle bit?
As the needles you have are std A4 ones.
Those are illuminated red from underneath by the LEDs on the clocks.
Which Pot did you want as my dash seem to be missing one of them
As the needles you have are std A4 ones.
Those are illuminated red from underneath by the LEDs on the clocks.
Which Pot did you want as my dash seem to be missing one of them
I would like to thank Nick and Simon for their input on this matter, but it's now done, WWWOOOHHHOOOOO
Kev ( Aragorn) and i spent a while looking at wiring diagrams after i had already spent a day going through them , and he cleverly noticed a link wire only present in the 1999 models.
This wire for some reason links the CL to the Ultrasonics on all cars, but on the 1999 it also links to the dash and then onto the Climate unit. A bit of rewiring later, and voila. Thanks Kev, all help appreciated.
I love the working DIS and the nice clean white needles.
Much better and classier than.
All i want to do now is stick some gauge rings in there at some point.
Nick i have that dash it has the right pot intact if you need it. Let me know
Kev ( Aragorn) and i spent a while looking at wiring diagrams after i had already spent a day going through them , and he cleverly noticed a link wire only present in the 1999 models.
This wire for some reason links the CL to the Ultrasonics on all cars, but on the 1999 it also links to the dash and then onto the Climate unit. A bit of rewiring later, and voila. Thanks Kev, all help appreciated.
I love the working DIS and the nice clean white needles.
Much better and classier than.
All i want to do now is stick some gauge rings in there at some point.
Nick i have that dash it has the right pot intact if you need it. Let me know
already is mate, the white dash pics are a thousand miles old,lol
I took the pics before i did it, i originally hadnt noticed i was missing 10k,lol
I took the pics before i did it, i originally hadnt noticed i was missing 10k,lol
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I'm glad we sorted it!I really like those S4 dials, unfortuately they look like a big headache to fit to our silly '96 loom!
Can always try and set them up with the TQS dials, just to see,LMAO
****, just thought .
Your connectors are different and you have the seperate IMMO box dont you?
Thanks for the fresh eyes on those diagrams i must have looked at it ten time and not saw it,lol
****, just thought .
Your connectors are different and you have the seperate IMMO box dont you?
Thanks for the fresh eyes on those diagrams i must have looked at it ten time and not saw it,lol
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Aye, seperate immo and different plugs.
I could probably wire it up, but i'd end up with the immo light flashing constantly...
Unless i moved the immo onboard the dials, and rewired the transponder etc into the clocks.
Sounds like a lot of work though. I've got that climate to sort as well :/
I could probably wire it up, but i'd end up with the immo light flashing constantly...
Unless i moved the immo onboard the dials, and rewired the transponder etc into the clocks.
Sounds like a lot of work though. I've got that climate to sort as well :/
calvin
parked up
Hi Mark, Mine light up white, so am assuming some git has had the nice white needles away and swapped em for red 'uns.
Also, I noticed today that, after warming up, the engine was ticking over at 250RPM!!! So the fact that my rev counter needle starts below the 0 is a giveaway!
Is there a way to get the RPM on the DIS or anything, I know that you can get other ecu info - but how?
And I need the left hand pot, which is a three position (ie, pull, push and centre - prolly the one you don't have!!?)
Cheers - Nick
Left hand one is intact for you to rob.
If you have vagcom you can compare revs etc on there or use the climate secret codes i think can give revs too iirc
If you have vagcom you can compare revs etc on there or use the climate secret codes i think can give revs too iirc
calvin
parked up
Cheers mark, yes please then! please PM me to arrange payment for postage etc, when you get a chance
On the climate display secret codes malarky, I've had a squizz around on here, but cant find a reference, any ideas where I will find them?
On the climate display secret codes malarky, I've had a squizz around on here, but cant find a reference, any ideas where I will find them?
calvin
parked up
Thanks Mark and Simon,
I'll give the climate a go first as its looks easy to do and should confirm my thoughts quickly, but will buzz you if it makes no sense! (thanks again!)
I also seem to have a duff thermostat as I got 25 miles home today with the needle not moving above 60! Leaving it to idle for 5 minutes and heating off got it to 70... I suspected this earlier in the year, so ANOTHER item for my growing to-do list!
I'll give the climate a go first as its looks easy to do and should confirm my thoughts quickly, but will buzz you if it makes no sense! (thanks again!)
I also seem to have a duff thermostat as I got 25 miles home today with the needle not moving above 60! Leaving it to idle for 5 minutes and heating off got it to 70... I suspected this earlier in the year, so ANOTHER item for my growing to-do list!
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behind the timing belt
As for the needle, you can put the cluster into test mode which moves the needles to a certain position (say 3k rpm, 100kph, etc), so if you remove the offending needle, enable test mode and wait for it to stop, and then replace needle pointing at the correct place, you'll sort the missalignment.
Can do the same thing with the coolant and fuel gauges, they point vertically when in test mode.
As for the needle, you can put the cluster into test mode which moves the needles to a certain position (say 3k rpm, 100kph, etc), so if you remove the offending needle, enable test mode and wait for it to stop, and then replace needle pointing at the correct place, you'll sort the missalignment.
Can do the same thing with the coolant and fuel gauges, they point vertically when in test mode.
calvin
parked up
I know re the location of the thermostat - perhaps I need not say that a certain Siena 
was supposed to check and change it when he had the engine out... he claimed he'd tested it and it was fine, so I had assumed it might be my guages... I know now!!!
How do you put the cluster into test mode? Is that VAGCOM again?
was supposed to check and change it when he had the engine out... he claimed he'd tested it and it was fine, so I had assumed it might be my guages... I know now!!!How do you put the cluster into test mode? Is that VAGCOM again?
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Ye vagcom, you go into instruments and press "output test". One of the modes it cycles thru moves the guage thru its full range and then moves it back to a certain spot and holds it there.
From memory its about 3krpm, 100kph, and streight up for coolant and fuel.
Take the needle off before you do the test though, as its very easy to move it from its set point when trying to pull it off, then very gently place it back on and then rerun the test to ensure its not moved.
To do it, you'll need to take the plastic cover off the front of the dash, and plug it back into the car with the cover missing so you can access the needles with the dash powered up.
From memory its about 3krpm, 100kph, and streight up for coolant and fuel.
Take the needle off before you do the test though, as its very easy to move it from its set point when trying to pull it off, then very gently place it back on and then rerun the test to ensure its not moved.
To do it, you'll need to take the plastic cover off the front of the dash, and plug it back into the car with the cover missing so you can access the needles with the dash powered up.
