A3 AUM 1.8T Ebay Fmic install

Prawn

My other car is a MINI!!!!
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Hi guys, seeing as there are SO many threads about this, and so many questions, I thought I'd take a few pics over the weekend when we fitted the turborevs ebay FMIC kit to his AUM engine'd 1.8T.

The AUM differs from the earlier AGU in that it has a map sensor, mounted on top of the SMIC as standard. To get around this problem, we used a forge map sensor pipe, available from forge:
http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=&product=FMMAPT



So, here's what we started with, a stupidly low mileage (36k) AUM 1.8T,
with a custard code phase 1, forge cold side kit, and a carbonio induction kit

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We started by removing the front bumper and drivers side headlight, then ripped out all the old pipework and the standard SMIC.

We then made some brackets to hang the core from the core from the crash bar. The core is hung right up tight under the crash bar, with just a 2mm gap between to stop the two rattling against each other

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We then started to offer up the cold side pipework, this is the larger 60mm pipe in the kit.
Being an AUM engine with the map sensor, we needed to put the map sensor back in roughly the same location as standard, due to a fairly short length of wires on the plug.

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This involved cutting a fair few bits, as the added length of the map sensor pipe was making the pipework much harder to fit. We ended up cutting 4'' in total off the throttle body hose, and cutting the map pipe down from 9'' to 5''. We also needed to remove around 1.5'' from the end of the cold side intercooler pipe, to realign the angle at which it joined the map pipe.

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The only bit I forgot to get pics of is the new N75 take off. all we did for this, was drill an 8mm hole in a suitable location, on the first pipe off the turbo, and then screw in an 8mmb rass hose take off. being so thin, we wern't confident the pipework thread alone would make a boost tight seal, so we used chemical metal on the threads, and then built up around the join to seal it up totally. This has worked faultlessly on my car for 2 years now, so it's more than good enough.

I then took to trimming the crap out of the front bumper, and this is the resulting pile of plastic that I cut out from the back of the bumper:

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Saturday night we got the rest of the pipework in and got the car running again before dark. We decided to give up, and swap the spanners for pizza and beer and a bit of Forza 3 :)

Here's how it looked on saturday morning. the rain came down hard, so we moved into the garage

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Poor mini had to go outside in the rain!!!

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Lights back in and we wen't for a test before refitting the bumper, all seemed well, with the car pulling VERY hard through all the gears, with no signs of any leaks

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Bumper back on, and the job was finished!

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We went for a test drive, and all seems great. Dan seemed pretty happy, and there were no problems at all. happy days!


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aside from it sticking out so much and is full of leaves now... looks like you have been hoovering up like a westfield mower - lol
 
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sadly it's impossible to get the pipes in this kit to sit any further back, but then again, £200 for a kit that works really well can't be complained about!
when the pipes dull down a tad it doesn't look quite so obvious either. I'd imagine sprayed black it'd almost blend in!

Having done some logs on mine, inlet temps are around 30 degrees even at 22psi of boost from the ko3s heat pump
 
THAT'S MY CAR!!! :)
Great write up Nick, the pics you took along the way came together really well.
Just makes you realise how much we got done in a day.
Looks great with bumper off!!

This has made a great difference to the running temp and pulls alot harder and smoother.

Cannot thank you enough Nick, couldn't have done it without you.

Hopefully we'll get another chance to rag around in that awesome mini/beast screaming out to be driven hard.
 
I got one of these kits, whilst the intercoolr is fine, I was REALLY disappointed by the pipework... It seemed to be an assortment of universal pipes, rather than the 'A3 kit' that was advertised... Still, we made it fit!

I like the way you've run the pipe down the right hand side of the engine, I ended up using the original charge pipe and pancake and then piped from there. Is that pipework custom made, or did you gt it from somewhere? If custom, can you send me a few photos via email since I really like the ways yours is done!!

Good work! :thumbsup:
 
Will do a copy and stick it in A3/S3 bit,if theres anymore fitting different fmics give me the link and I'll add as and when they appear Nick :thumbsup:
 
OK cheers Jase, I'll be doing a write up similar to Tim's hidden install in a month or so's time, so I'll add that in here, then i'll send you links to any more that pop up and could be merged :)
 
couldnt you modify/remake the pipes so they actually fit an a3? seems really cheeky advertising it as an "a3" kit but you have to chop the bumper around and leave the grilles out so it "fits".
 
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since i have the same (AUM) engine i got a question about that map sensor tube.
forge on its site offers two options for the tube. diameter:60mm,63mm and length:110mm,240 mm.
so wich one shoud i go for??
(got the same turbo revs fmic kit)
 
I don't think the lengths change on the forge map pipes mate, but you'll need to cut it down anyway.

As for side, I don't remember which it was to be sure, although i THINK it was 60mm.

Just measure the cold side pipe in your FMIC kit, and that's the size you need for the forge map pipe :)

And yes, it's 100% essential to make an N75 feed. Without it, you'll blow your turbo up!"
 
im just about to fit this fmic kit to my a3 and have a couple of q's if i may (i know its an old topic but hopfully someone can help?)

i have the same map sensor thing down behind the head light so do i need the peice of pipe from forge that you used? or can i connect onto the standard map sensor or is that intergrated into the standard i/c?

with my kit iv got an asortment of different brackets but i can see where or why i'd need these, where did you place yours?

and finally lol, where can i get me one of those carbon induction things?
 
Would I need one of these map sensor pipe things for an AGU a3???
 
Nope, AGU's are stupid, useless, and utterly brilliant :D

No map sensor on an AGU, all you need is the DV and the N75 take off, the turbo revs kit has a DV take off, but you need to make an N75 take off.
 
Nope, AGU's are stupid, useless, and utterly brilliant :D

No map sensor on an AGU, all you need is the DV and the N75 take off, the turbo revs kit has a DV take off, but you need to make an N75 take off.

Hey mate, just read through this thread. Would you still recommend this kit or have you any other recommendations as this is quite an old thread ??

also the last post says you need to make a n75 take off and dv take off. I have a forge tip with these items plumbed into that, are you talking about the other end of these ?? Soz for the noobie questions lol :0
 
I would by a universal kit personally 2.25 or 2.5 inch pipe work as the car specific kit sticks out the grilles an fit looks rubbish
 
I'm not worried about the pipework coming through the bumper don't think it looks too bad, but if you think a universal one would be better have you got any recommendations to which one? All the links I find on the forums are from years ago so links are expired.

Thanks for your help
Russell
 
I used a ebay one search item number 171354909423 I personally think that the pipes sticking out looks awful like it's fitted wrong *flame retardant suite on*
 
some people like to shout about the fmic, others go for stealth i guess
 
Thanks a lot mate :) I do much prefer the stealth look without it hanging out of the bumper :) how did you fit the DV and N75 to this as I can't see any ports for them? Or did you connect it up to your existing charge pipe?

Russell
 
I don't mind it when it's cooler and pipes shouting look at me but when the coolers hidden and pipes are hanging out it looks terrible IMO, for the dv I bought a t piece and for the n75 I drilled a hole where I wanted the take off and chemical metalled a metal tyre valve into the pipe been going strong for 2 years
 
Yea they are the ones You take the centre of the valve out with a valve key a local tyre bay can do that easy then it's just a tube which is perfect for the n75 pipe
 
LOL at Lee's ranting about FMIC's with exposed pipes being "in your face" and looking like they have been fitted wrong.

It is taking every single ounce of self restraint not to be a thunder ****.
 
Hi guys does anybody know if it is possible to just buy the pipework from the turbo revs kit prawn used at the beginning? Or is it all or nothing?
 
Hey Prawn ! The link is 404 and the images are gone.
Really like your YT channel ,great content and fun to watch.
 
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