My 'Charlott' S3 8P build thread: Q&A here

AJames

AJames

Rally Driver - road Audi S3-8P
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Hello to all, I am new to the forum, hoping to share and learn from you, have been reading some excellent threads, my compliments!

I own a may08 S3 8P, that carries the following mods:
- Forge DV replacement
- Forge Twincooler
- Forge Short gear throw
- Custom bespoke CAI (EvoMS+Carbonio+BMC) will post pics.
- Full Milltek
- APR full new, uprated HPFP
- Superchips Stage 3 map
- Sachs Racing organic clutch/cover assembly
- NGK Iridium's
- Bilstein B8's, with my tuned rod lenghts and damping force calibrations.
- Eibach Pro Kit
- H&R antiroll bars
- Composite CTF front disks
- Pagid Yellow brake pads all round
- Michelin PSport PS2's

The car now handles and brakes very well but, I am not much faster than a Golf R32!! :-( (also when hot, the car has minor fuel cuts at high revs)
I have asked Superchips to increase boost over their map stage3, and they sent me 3.2 & 3.3 steps, that make the car fly, but suffer from fuel cuts (or overboost?)
I am asking you all if you have any related experiences, because I do not know if to source the RS4 injectors to try use the 3.3 Superchips map, or what to do!!

Cheers,
A
 
Last edited by a moderator:
What BHP are you getting?

I would suggest changing the injectors, this will allow more fuel to flow at high revs, not sure about Superchips but other tuning companys can rewrite the map to compensate for the fuel cuts!
 
AJames said:
Hello to all, I am new to the forum, hoping to share and learn from you, have been reading some excellent threads, my compliments!

I own a may08 S3 8P, that carries the following mods:
- Forge DV replacement
- Forge Twincooler
- Forge Short gear throw
- Custom bespoke CAI (EvoMS+Carbonio+BMC) will post pics.
- Full Milltek
- APR full new, uprated HPFP
- Superchips Stage 3 map
- Sachs Racing organic clutch/cover assembly
- NGK Iridium's
- Bilstein B8's, with my tuned rod lenghts and damping force calibrations.
- Eibach Pro Kit
- H&R antiroll bars
- Composite CTF front disks
- Pagid Yellow brake pads all round
- Michelin PSport PS2's

The car now handles and brakes very well but, I am not much faster than a Golf R32!! :-( (also when hot, the car has minor fuel cuts at high revs)
I have asked Superchips to increase boost over their map stage3, and they sent me 3.2 & 3.3 steps, that make the car fly, but suffer from fuel cuts (or overboost?)
I am asking you all if you have any related experiences, because I do not know if to source the RS4 injectors to try use the 3.3 Superchips map, or what to do!!

Cheers,
A
Click to expand...

Hi there...you've been busy!

By fuel cuts,do you mean misfires?

The reason I ask is that a few of us here have had problems with high rpm misfires,myself included.

In my case,AMD tried new coilpacks,plugs and fiddling with the fuelling,before we both decided to try a few bottles of injector cleaner,and I followed that up with a CAI.

The latter two seem to have cleared the problem,and I won't be using cheapo supermarket fuel ever again.

Also has the car been checked on VAG-COM to see what the problem is,and has it been back to whoever did the work for you?

If you search this forum area using "misfire" as the search word you'll pull up about 62 threads!
 
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Thank you Big Andy and S3Alex,
I do not know the bhp, have yet to roll. In my opinion, around 300 with the 3.0 map.
It makes a LOT more with the 3.3.
I will look in to misfiring, but the car has always only run on 98octane fuel, and I have recently done an injector cleaning treatment...
The sensation is of gradual pressure release and re-gain, no stuttering, no noise and no engine juttering. Just like a fuel cut, but maybe it is what you say, I will read now.
 
AJames said:
Thank you Big Andy and S3Alex,
I do not know the bhp, have yet to roll. In my opinion, around 300 with the 3.0 map.
It makes a LOT more with the 3.3.
I will look in to misfiring, but the car has always only run on 98octane fuel, and I have recently done an injector cleaning treatment...
The sensation is of gradual pressure release and re-gain, no stuttering, no noise and no engine juttering. Just like a fuel cut, but maybe it is what you say, I will read now.
Click to expand...

You really should get the car properly mapped and set up on a rolling road.

Remaps such as Revo and GIAC are done this way,and allow a lot more flexibility in setting up the car and map together.
 
S3Alex said:
You really should get the car properly mapped and set up on a rolling road.

Remaps such as Revo and GIAC are done this way,and allow a lot more flexibility in setting up the car and map together.
Click to expand...

You are right, but I have found nobody here in Italy for now. Revo say to wait a month, because they are talking to some potential new dealer here...
By the way, when using the 3.2 and 3.3 maps, the car turns off when coming to idle after heavy braking/driving, like when you have been going for it and get to a red light.
Also, the engine is slow to regain power, it lags, after gear changes, the higher, the worse.
 
AJames said:
You are right, but I have found nobody here in Italy for now. Revo say to wait a month, because they are talking to some potential new dealer here...
By the way, when using the 3.2 and 3.3 maps, the car turns off when coming to idle after heavy braking/driving, like when you have been going for it and get to a red light.
Also, the engine is slow to regain power, it lags, after gear changes, the higher, the worse.
Click to expand...

Ahhh...didn't know you were in Italy.

I can't really recommend anyone to you although there may well be others who can.

Who installed and fitted all of your mods?
 
Welcome to the forum AJAmes.

Not much faster than an R32?! You mean because of the problems or altogether?
 
S3Alex said:
Who installed and fitted all of your mods?
Click to expand...

My mechanics, I drove in the italian rally championship till not long ago.
Technically, the job is perfect,the electronics, and possibly the injectors, seem to be the problem here...
I don't know about the injectors, because I heard of 370bhp on standard turbo & injectors with Revo software maps...
What series of RS4 should we source the injectors from?
 
Hi Staz, thank you, happy to be here.

Not faster because I found one on the motorway the other day, coming back from the sea, and I couldn't loose the guy! His car looked very new and standard, and went like mine untill 6000rpm, then i gained some, but not much...
So, altogether, the machine is not working as it should.
 
AJames said:
My mechanics, I drove in the italian rally championship till not long ago.
Technically, the job is perfect,the electronics, and possibly the injectors, seem to be the problem here...
I don't know about the injectors, because I heard of 370bhp on standard turbo & injectors with Revo software maps...
What series of RS4 should we source the injectors from?
Click to expand...

Great...sounds as if you have a very competent team there,who would know their stuff,as I found with my last car,there is nothing to beat racing mechanics.

I would strongly suggest being able to get some time on a RR with a laptop and suitable software to get this set up properly.
 
Yes, just have to find someone I trust. I know this kind of people very well, and few live up to their words, but all are interested in your strong currency... :)
 
AJames said:
This morning I have heard from Sportec (www.sportec.ch) and the guy was asking me Euro2000 to remap on his rolling road!!!
Click to expand...

Not really much of a bargain at 2000 Euros!!

Your car has a hell of a spec for 300bhp.

Your climate won't lend itself to continuous high performance as you are quite a few degrees hotter than here for your ambient summer temps. In the UK you see a marked drop off in the outright performance in summer against our winter temps.

That said it should still be quick.

Running excessive boost will significantly increase your intake temps and exacerbate your temp issues, so maybe try dialing back the boost in the summer months.

Have you had the car on VAGCOM and got any logs from it running under load?
 
warrencox said:
Not really much of a bargain at 2000 Euros!!

Your car has a hell of a spec for 300bhp.

Your climate won't lend itself to continuous high performance as you are quite a few degrees hotter than here for your ambient summer temps. In the UK you see a marked drop off in the outright performance in summer against our winter temps.

That said it should still be quick.

Running excessive boost will significantly increase your intake temps and exacerbate your temp issues, so maybe try dialing back the boost in the summer months.

Have you had the car on VAGCOM and got any logs from it running under load?
Click to expand...

Thank you Warren,
no, I do not own a Vagcom, so haven't tried yet. I am working on the maps based on my senstations from remote with Michael at Superchips, but I really need the rolling road mapping...
I am also intentionned to buy RS4 injectors and, in a second moment, an internal rebuild of the standard turbo.

Know anyone selling the RS4 injectors?
 
warrencox said:
Your climate won't lend itself to continuous high performance as you are quite a few degrees hotter than here for your ambient summer temps. In the UK you see a marked drop off in the outright performance in summer against our winter temps.
Click to expand...

I was in Italy last summer and I have to say I didn't notice any performance drop. I know of course it does have an affect but it just wasn't noticeable.
 
Staz said:
I was in Italy last summer and I have to say I didn't notice any performance drop. I know of course it does have an affect but it just wasn't noticeable.
Click to expand...

Well, it does influence but, Italy is not Africa and temperatures are not so high. Once you are driving on a bigger or twin intercooler, the overall difference should be 2-3% every 10°C of ambient temperature. Infact, you must consider that before the cold air reaches the combustion chamber, it has heated up due to the engine bay heat, mechanical heat transimssion, etc. Therefore, the entry temperature does very little.
Whad does a big difference is when you drive your car after it has cooled down all night versus after a day of use.
The best performance increase mod you can use, as me, is to wrap your exhaust from turbo till half car down, that will strongly contribute to maintaining overall engine & bay temperatures acceptable thruoughout the full use temperature cycle.
 
AJames
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Rally Driver - road Audi S3-8P
Join Date: Jul 2009
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HELP/ S3 8P -Is my turbo going broken?
Hello,

got a couple of new remaps from Superchips via Bluefin a week ago. Tried the 3.3 (the one with most boost) and suffered from high end fuel cuts, so folded back to 3.0, but this is not the point.

Ever since, I have been hearing a 'worn bearing-like' noise from the engine bay, and suffering a 20-30% turbo boost decrease. Currently the turbo kicks in at 3.200-3.250 revs, instead of usual 2.700. I can hear the turbo is rotating, but not the pressure going in to the system.

Is it possible I damaged the turbo in any way with the remap 3.3?
How can I explain this power drop? Have already tested all the obvious things, including boost system leeks, DV, etc.

Thank you,
AJ
Last edited by AJames; 13 Hours Ago at 17:11.
 
Also, does anyone know the SAE Audi specifics for the following S3 8P oils?
- Engine oil (0W-30W?)
- transmission oil
- differential oil

Thank you,
AJ
 
Have you been to Audi AJ? I know it's a bit of a tricky situation as you've modded it but they may be able to help. Plus you get the warranty from Superchips if Audi won't cover it.

Not sure how that works when you have other mods though.
 
I always used to use Ferodo DS2500 pads in my Brembo's on the LCR and they were very good.
 
I have 2500, but very bad, they cannot withstand the temperatures and stress, but that is how I drive, and that is over the limits :)

Pagid are working in this moment for me, will let you know.
Anyone Else?
 
Now, I have unveiled the mystery of the 8p S3's front brake pads @Pagid.

For some reason, they have two different reference for this model, probably because in USA they get an S3 version with smaller brakes.

Our European cars, with 340mm front discs, munt the following front pads:
- Pagid 8064 design, with RS19 yellow compound.

This is the maximum braking power that you can get from the stock system. You will obtain the best results if you couple these with C.T.F. slotted composite disks, like we have done here.

Hope this helps:rock:
 
AJames said:
This is the maximum braking power that you can get from the stock system. You will obtain the best results if you couple these with C.T.F. slotted composite disks, like we have done here.

Hope this helps:rock:
Click to expand...

:sign_pics:
 
no pictures just now, sorry I am in my office.
I have been waiting to finish a couple of jobs before posting the car's pictures, but should manage to finally do so this weekend.
 
Anyone can tell me how I can get image attachments allowed?
I do not know how to put my car's pictures online for the other method.
Thank you,
James
 
Have you checked the camshaft follower or intake lobe?
I've just been reading some info on the APR site.

Volkswagen of America, Inc. has released a Technical Service Bulletin (TSB)
stating that there is a known problem concerning premature wear of the intake
camshaft lobe and camshaft follower that drive the FSI high-pressure fuel pump.
This wear has been known to cause fuel delivery issues and fuel rail pressure
fluctuations. If this wear goes unchecked, wear can also begin on the base of
the FSI high-pressure fuel pump. In some cases, this wear can result in a
complete failure of the intake camshaft which may result in extensive damage to​
the engine valve train, head, and other related components.
The published TSB​
describes the proper method for inspecting your vehicle for this type of wear and
also describes what steps should be taken to repair the damage through your
factory-authorized service department. Please go to the internet link below to
view a copy of the VW/Audi Technical Service Bulletin related to premature cam
lobe wear:
​
http://www.goapr.com/images/support/tsb/20t_cam_wear.pdf

Hope this helps.
 
Yep, the car is in Audi now, checking.
In theory, this issue is addressed to cars up to late 2007, then should be fixed, but never now.
I am having the injectors checked also, because I hear a knocking noise at idle, and delivery isn't smooth.
 
Got the car back from Audi on Friday...

The new Sachs Racing cluth disk+assembly is quite harsh, more that what I expected. Infact, the performance is similar to a race car, because neither the disk, nor the assembly are sprung!
I got mad with Sachs Racing because they are selling this assembly to customers as a 'Street Performance' and 'Similar to OE Start Performance' product. Now they are seeing about building me an assembly with springs, because this is a bit too much for an everyday car, even for a rally driver!

I tested the clutch's performance, driving hard on the Monte-Carlo SS roads this weekend, and it does manage the torque & heat very well.

For the rest, I had installed the Forge Silicon Throttle Body hose and- I Wish I did this before! I saw a HUGE difference in the car's behaviour at medium-to-high revs!

Also the Pakelo 10-60W engine oil makes a HUGE difference.

That is about all the news for today, tonight I will be doing some data acquiring with VAG-Com, to finish the work on the pilot-bespoke map I am doing with Superchips.
Cheerios:thumbsup:
 
AJames said:
The best performance increase mod you can use, as me, is to wrap your exhaust from turbo till half car down, that will strongly contribute to maintaining overall engine & bay temperatures acceptable thruoughout the full use temperature cycle.
Click to expand...


Your specs are awesome! :hubbahubba:
Hope you get your issues sorted soon. :unsure:

Please explain what you mean by wrap your car? Like heat resistant tape?:uhm:
Im doing my CAI on thursday, wondering if i should go get some heat resistant tape and put it on be4 the install?
Any suggestions?
 
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