Changing Coil packs. Is there a guide

Westy

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On my drive home last night my car started juddering and the engine light was flashing on the dash. I slowed down and could feel and hear the car missfiring everytime I pressed the gas. Vagcom has picked up the following:

Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail!
Part No: 8N0 906 018 BH
Component: 1.8L R4/5VT 0001
Coding: 10710
Shop #: WSC 00000
WAUZZZ8L021010571 AUZ7Z0A1997702

2 Faults Found:
16684 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
P0300 - 35-00 - -
16686 - Cylinder 2: Misfire Detected
P0302 - 35-00 - -
Readiness: 0000 0000


Now the Ross-Tech wiki isn't very specific and lists a whole host of possible causes such as:

Possible Causes


  • Ignition system
  • Fuel injectors
  • Fuel pressure
  • Running out of fuel
  • EVAP canister purge valve
  • Evaporative emission system
  • Low compression
  • Base engine problems
  • Controle Module damaged

My questions are:

1. Is cylinder 2 the 2nd one in from the left or the right as you are looking into the engine bay?

2. What else can I do to determine the cause eg swap coil packs/injectors between cylinders.

3. Is there a guide (with pics) to change the coil packs.

4. How much are OEM coil packs (genuine from Audi) and is it worth me changing all 4.

5. An Audi TT owner at work thought that the coilpacks were all recalled due to a common problem with them and Audi may do it under warrenty!!!!?

any help is appreciated, cheers guys.
 
1. Is cylinder 2 the 2nd one in from the left or the right as you are looking into the engine bay?

2. What else can I do to determine the cause eg swap coil packs/injectors between cylinders.

3. Is there a guide (with pics) to change the coil packs.

4. How much are OEM coil packs (genuine from Audi) and is it worth me changing all 4.

5. An Audi TT owner at work thought that the coilpacks were all recalled due to a common problem with them and Audi may do it under warrenty!!!!?

any help is appreciated, cheers guys.

Just changed all four recently, two of them failed (£115 for 4 - Trade price) and have two spares just in case.

1 = Yes (from the left)

2 = ?

3 = 1 & 2 are easy to swap 3 & 4 are a bit of a pain as you need to remove about 5 hex bolts for the part that sits on top of them. (Not sure what that is) but easily done.

4= They cost anything between £30 - 40 from Audi

5= There was a recall many moons ago but I'm fairy sure this does not apply any more.

Theres nothing worse than a limp S3, hope you sort it soon.
 
Thanks for the reply buddy, I think i'll try and get a coil pack from Audi at lunch and fit it tonight. Are they easy to do?

The strange thing is that just before it hit limp mode it felt a lot pokier than normal :uhm:
 
what coil packs have you got fitted ???? Genuine ones are the only way to go and Audi are only a little bit more expensive than places like GSF.
 
what coil packs have you got fitted ???? Genuine ones are the only way to go and Audi are only a little bit more expensive than places like GSF.

Yeah i've got genuine packs mate. I learnt my lesson last time when I bought a ECP wheel speed sensor that only lasted 2 months before it packed in, the audi one has been solid.

I've spoken to my local dealer and they have 5 in stock so i'm going to pick one up at lunch then fit it when I get home after work.
 
I worked on an A4 a couple of days back that was throwing some of those codes.... turned out to be just a faulty spark plug...
 
I've got the coil pack sitting on my desk in front of me, I'll be fitting it in about an hour so I'll find out then. If the coil pack doesn't fix the problem I'll be getting plugs tomorrow :banghead:
 
All sorted.

Took 2 mins to swap over the coil pack then cleared the VAGCOM errors. Took for a 20 min spin and the car felt more responsive and dare I say it slightly faster! It may have all been in my head though :think:
 
That's good to hear.

I'm suffering from little power dips at the mo, and I'm wondering if it is heat / maf related or electrical. Still waiting for my new VAGCOM lead to turn up, to see whats happening, hopefully it'll turn out to be something like this then - a 2min fix sounds good!!!
 
2 min fix if you want to replace the coil on cylinders 1 or 2. 3 & 4 are a bit more difficult as you need to remove some gubbins that sits on top!

VAGCOM is the best thing i've bought for my car. Its paid for itself already in saving on garage diagnostics.
 
....VAGCOM is the best thing i've bought for my car. Its paid for itself already in saving on garage diagnostics.

Yeah tell me about it - don't you find now though, that you actually start looking for problems to diagnose?!!
 
!!!WARNING. :blahblah1::blahblah1::blahblah1: ALERT!!!

Thread revival I know.........

I've been suffering with power dips / hesitancy lately. I can hear the turbo spooling up (more than I recall when the car was new) when suddenly the turbo can go quiet and it almost feels as though someone is applying the brakes - there’s no pattern to it and sometimes when it’s really bad it can bring up the engine management warning on the display.
Well I finally got my VAG-COM lead and thought this would be the first thing I’d investigate . Like Westle before I got very similar fault codes returned, 16684 & 16685 (which is cylinder 1 and not 2) - which obviously have the same “possible causes” as above.
Although, missing from that list is the following:
Air Intake System leaking
Fuel Supply faulty
Injector(s) faulty
Ignition Cable(s) and/or Spark Plug(s) faulty
Ignition Coil(s) faulty
Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve (N18) stuck/open
Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
Yesterday I cleared the faults and took it for a spin. The car felt really good, which I can’t quite understand, but then ½ hour in, the car started to do its thing - maybe not as bad as before and it didn’t bring up the engine management warning. So, back in to “the pits” and I plug in - no faults returned - so I start thinking this isn’t a major engine problem and is probably air or electrical related?
Late last night / early this morning (empty roads) I took it out for a right good blast and I found there actually is a pattern - above a ton, it stops doing it and starts to pull really really strongly - this now makes me think that it’s actually air related.
Anyone got an ideas, what other tests, VAG-COM or otherwise, can I do to start narrowing this down.
Thanks for reading / listening!!!
 

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