Im Sh***ng myself

Whats Wrong?

  • Total voters
    10
Trick

Trick

Registered User
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Messages
163
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
NULL
Need a bit of advice please chaps.

Driving to work this morn and aproched a roundabout and the car just konked out! restarted and car took approx 3sec of turnover before it started. Once it did however the epc light came on and now stays on after every restart (is this limp mode?), i also idle now at 1k rpm and when driving along the car seems to be going then as if its been held back, then going, held back etc.

A we while back the out of teh blue the car would start after about 5 sec turnover with epc but after restart it was fine. (this happend only three times over three days approx)

I have vagcom but laptop screen has given up so i have been unable to test. IF IF i make it home, i will borrow afriends laptop to test tonight.

But what am I facing?:sob:
 
eh? what in the car? under steering wheel?
 
Its probably something minor...if it was a major one, then it wouldnt start at all! just wait and see what vagcom says.
 
Ive done a bit of searching and reading, and they all pretty much point towards a faulty coil pack or dirty MAF.
 
Im sure Ive read that the ignition amplifier could cause this? I could be wrong though lol.
 
Might be worth to mention that the car is now due a service and is going to be booked in to Glasgow Audi. So should I leave it to them to sort or sort if before it goes in?
 
Well you could really do wi sorting it out before then, isnt exactly ideal driving acar thats cutting out is it!
 
My guess is towards the MAF, But im sure the Vagcom will throw a few codes at you if the ESP lights on (which is a good thing) :)
 
A good thing!? lol.

So is it safe to drive the 15 or so miles home from work today?
 
Well aslong as you prepare yourself for the car to cut out at anytime, aslo try not to thrash it and you should be ok.
 
sounds very much like the crank sensor....vag com showed that cylinder 3 was misfiring but had exactly sdame issues....none of the above would cause the restart issue like the crank sensor would
 
bout £80 for the part, single bolt to fit it, trouble is its an **** to get to (just under oil filter)..... once the nut is off your away
 
Since tonight will be the first time of using VAG, (if it works) does it just throw up fault codes with no explanation?
 
Trick said:
Since tonight will be the first time of using VAG, (if it works) does it just throw up fault codes with no explanation?
Click to expand...

LOL, no, you need to run a diagnostics scan which should take a few minutes, then it will throw up the fault codes which are called DTCs(Diagnostic Trouble Codes). Then it is up to you to decipher the codes, though most of it is self explanatory
 
you may have to pick out each relevant engine area and do a specific search per module.... my free vagcom wont allow me to do a full search without purchase
 
jojo said:
LOL, no, you need to run a diagnostics scan which should take a few minutes, then it will throw up the fault codes which are called DTCs(Diagnostic Trouble Codes). Then it is up to you to decipher the codes, though most of it is self explanatory
Click to expand...


Has no one compiled a list of codes with the relevant possible descriptions of faults?
 
Great, thanks for all the help guys. On a brighter note, went out to try the car at lunch time and it started 1st turn of the key with no epc light. :uhm:
 
Trick said:
Great, thanks for all the help guys. On a brighter note, went out to try the car at lunch time and it started 1st turn of the key with no epc light. :uhm:
Click to expand...
Id still get it looked at....But if theres no light up then the VAGCOM may not find a fault.
 
I will run a diagnose anyway and post the results. Thanxs again!
 
Trick said:
Great, thanks for all the help guys. On a brighter note, went out to try the car at lunch time and it started 1st turn of the key with no epc light. :uhm:
Click to expand...

My money is on the N75 valves, they have a habbit of sticking. By cycling the ignition noemally resets them, thats why your mangament light went out.

They are fairly cheap to replace too.
 
I should be taking bets here. lol raise the cash for the repair.
 
Ok vagd the car and it aint finding anything, not sure if im even doing it right.

I have a OBD II Cable and VAG-COM ver. 4091us.

But the cable was not recognised by vag com as a USB but it was recognised in com port 4? Which I thought was a serial port?

Is there a guide to how to run the initial setup, and how do you find out which version your car is i.e. HEX, OBD ect. . . .

Need help plz folks!!! :wtf:
 
Your car is ODBII and the cable sounds like the right one. Also, it's right for it to be refered to as com port 4 (or 1, 2 etc) even if its USB.

You should go into the settings screen and I think there is a button to test the com port connection.

Then you can go into the engine module and it should find your car, listing model, engine and some other details. If it doesn't and its timing out with a connection error message try changing the com port in the settings screen.

I don't understand how it can be your MAF, I thought when these fail they give false readings, but not zero readings. Your can unplug your MAF and the ecu will use base table readings (like set values) and the car will still run ok.

As above, you may get a misleading error code, or no error codes at all. If so you might need to run some manual tests to check the N75, MAF etc. The thread has a link to a document that details some tests you can do: http://audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=67011
 
I'll bet it's the crank sensor on the way out. Get it sorted now because it'll gradually get worse.
 
this is confusing lol, it sees it as com port 4 and tests ok, but when i go into the engine module and select 8l Audi S3 and hit scan it does show me some info bout engine number or whatever but it runs the scan then finishes with no error messages or fault codes?

One other thing (prob stupid Q), do i need to have the ignition on/car running etc for this to work?

Would a HEX-USB+CAN Cabel be better?
 
Cockney Boy said:
My money is on the N75 valves, they have a habbit of sticking. By cycling the ignition noemally resets them, thats why your mangament light went out.

They are fairly cheap to replace too.
Click to expand...

Yeah but the N75 J is a real biatch to get hold of. no were has them
 
Trick said:
One other thing (prob stupid Q), do i need to have the ignition on/car running etc for this to work?

Would a HEX-USB+CAN Cabel be better?
Click to expand...

You need to turn the ignition on but dont start the car. turn off all aux`s too like fans, radio. ect.
 
That's what i done, no radio, fans ect, even closed all doors windows and sunroof, ignition on scanned and nothing. But the epc light wasnt on anymore bofore i ran the scan?
 
sounds like a coilpack breaking down to me.
have you not got a spare that you could try swapping over til you find the faulty one?
 
a coil pack or maf will not cause issues on restart, neither will the N75....the car is fine from cold yes? then cuts out when warmed up on run up to roundabouts...... like ive already said along with Golf..... its more than likely your crank sensor..... Golf is spot on, it WILL get to a point where it is undriveable, mine acted up a few times, same symptoms exactly..... holding back on boost, not restarting without a good few turns of the starter motor.....
 
Got a couple of misfires on way to work this morning but no engine stalls or lights.
And yes car is fine from cold. The more i think about it the more im sure it will be a crank sensor, but cant seem to get vag-com to work! :crying:
 
TBH mate vagcom wont tell you if its the crank sensor...... i changed a coil pack with a spare i had, cured it for couple of days then started again.... vagcom showed cylinder 3 misfire and couple other timing faults......cam sensor doesnt seem to be able to be diagnosed

one other thing, i thought id be a smart **** and buy a pattern part, was sent and looked right with smaller bolt hole, ended up wasting £40 as when i enlarged the bolt hole it still didnt want to play..... best buying OEM
 
Mine packed up the other day kept stalling without warning then it wouldnt even go when flooring it as a last resort. eventually the battery light came on and it turned out to be the alternator, fortunately i didnt have to replace it as the bushes are changeable in a seperate pack that bolts on £45.
 
why is everyone missing the point about the car stopping and not restarting as it should - when was the last time a coil pack caused a restart issue???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Trick
Im Sh***ng myself - PART 2
Replies
17
Views
10K
Trick
Trick
Tastyterrier
F*&%(ng Potholes!!
Replies
24
Views
2K
rickquattro
rickquattro
M
FU@$!NG RUST
Replies
4
Views
1K
Spacecowboy
S
Nilz
Fu*#&ng Car Alarm!!!!!
Replies
40
Views
2K
Nilz
Nilz
Dani_B19
F****ng Stuck - Clutch Pedal Snapped.
Replies
11
Views
1K
Dani_B19
Dani_B19
Top
Back