Calling those with mechanical knowledge!!(cleaning trottle body?)

[S3-Oski]

Hi all im going to attempt to clean my throttle body today, as im having issues sometimes with my revs dropping slowly and revs rise ing between gear changes i had clutch switch checked and clutch no slippage,

Anyway have looked at this guide here http://uk-mkivs.net/forums/p/127279/857711.aspx#857711 looks fairly easy even for me 4x 5mm allen key bolts and a jubilee clip, i have a few questions,

1, mine is a AMK so im thinking will need to be alligned via Vag Com which i have NOT got, but have read it will align itself after 15-20 miles of driving is this correct?? or will i need vagcom for it?

i know the early models you can reset it by turning ignition and waiting for throttle to reset? but i dont think thats the case on mine?


2 On top of my throttle body thereis a the rubber hose what stops then goes into like a black metal tube, is this for fuel? As the rubber bit that joins the tb looks a little perished so could replace it?

3 Is it ok to push the butterfly valve open by hand to clean it as i readsome people say it wont move and some says it fine like on the guide

Sorry for the questions but if it is good to go would like to do it myself today, Thanks Oski:icon_thumright:

 

[Haglos]

good question mate im looking to have a go at it too mines apy code looking forward to the replys

 

[ianysm]

You should be able to reset your throttle by disconnecting battery for a few mins, then turning on the ignition for 1 min (without starting), then switching off and restarting as normal.

 

[S3-Oski]

You should be able to reset your throttle by disconnecting battery for a few mins, then turning on the ignition for 1 min (without starting), then switching off and restarting as normal.

Hi mate thanks for this, does this apply to all engine codes agu amk and bam? or just certain ones, i have read that it will adjust it self any way after x amount of miles, but want to make sure its definately 100% ok to do this, cheers Oski

 

[swatchuk]

I did mine yesterday. The pipe you mention isnt a fuel pipe, so your fine to undo the clip and pull it off. You are also ok to open the butterfly by hand. Does take a bit of effort to open. After cleaning mine i went for a drive for a bout 30 mins and it didnt feel quite right still, so I had my mate reset it with vagcom and its spot on now.

 

[S3-Oski]

I did mine yesterday. The pipe you mention isnt a fuel pipe, so your fine to undo the clip and pull it off. You are also ok to open the butterfly by hand. Does take a bit of effort to open. After cleaning mine i went for a drive for a bout 30 mins and it didnt feel quite right still, so I had my mate reset it with vagcom and its spot on now.

Thanks mate for the reply:icon_thumright:, any idea what engine code yours is? year?, also do you know what that pipe is for? just curious, i wanna go and do mine now asap, but i have no vag com or any access to it and dont want to mess my car up, i read it can take up to 30 miles to self correct? however i dont know how true this is,

So really wondered on my AMK, if i can take apart tb carefully clean it, and then try the battery thing and then take it for a long drive, and hopefuly be ok cheers Oski

 

[<tuffty/>]

Mines an AMK, when I cleaned mine I already had the battery disconnected as I was doing something else. Reconnecting the battery reset mine. The car will feel odd for a while while it goes through the adaption process again

 

[S3-Oski]

Mines an AMK, when I cleaned mine I already had the battery disconnected as I was doing something else. Reconnecting the battery reset mine. The car will feel odd for a while while it goes through the adaption process again

Cool ok mate so i take off the battery then take it off clean it, will it definately reset its self the same as if i was to use vagcom?

Also will this upset anything on my car if i disconnect the battrey? i know i will have to reset the code on my radio which i have, cheers Oski

 

[<tuffty/>]

Should do, mine made the same noise it does when I have done it through VAGCOM in the past.

The radio code (assuming its an Audi factory unit) will be fine as it will be linked to your ECU, its only if you change the ECU or fit the radio into another car that you need to use the code again (and then only the once)

You will also need to wind your windows down then back up as one touch will have been lost, once done it will return back as normal.

The suggestion is that when you reconnect the battery, have the ignition turned on. I think this is to prevent the alarm from going off and stuff but leave the drivers door open, it shouldn't lock the doors but no harm in making sure.

Think thats it but like I said, the car will not feel as lively initially as ECU adaption will have been reset.

<tuffty/>

 

[abdus]

no problem disconnecting battery as long as you know your radio code.

regarding the TB. when reconnecting battery, turn the ignition key to on but don't start the car, leave it for 10 secs and then start the car. let it idle for 10mins. should be fine

 

[S3-Oski]

Should do, mine made the same noise it does when I have done it through VAGCOM in the past.

The radio code (assuming its an Audi factory unit) will be fine as it will be linked to your ECU, its only if you change the ECU or fit the radio into another car that you need to use the code again (and then only the once)

You will also need to wind your windows down then back up as one touch will have been lost, once done it will return back as normal.

The suggestion is that when you reconnect the battery, have the ignition turned on. I think this is to prevent the alarm from going off and stuff but leave the drivers door open, it shouldn't lock the doors but no harm in making sure.

Think thats it but like I said, the car will not feel as lively initially as ECU adaption will have been reset.

<tuffty/>

Thanks mate gonna give it a whril in a sec i appreachiate your help alot!,

I have two keys so should be ok if it locked itself, main thin i dont my alarm going off so when i connect the battery make sure i have ignition on one click??

, will it be ok just to take it all off then disconnect the battrey after i have cleaned it then connect it again, Also is there a gasket between the throttle body?if so can i reuse it or should i have bought another one? cheers thanks again Oski

 

[abdus]

, will it be ok just to take it all off then disconnect the battrey after i have cleaned it then connect it again, Also is there a gasket between the throttle body?if so can i reuse it or should i have bought another one?

if the gasket looks ok, then you can re-use it

 

[S3-Oski]

if the gasket looks ok, then you can re-use it

Ok thanks for that i hope it is as i have no other think its made from paper? from what ive read,

 

[S3-Oski]

no problem disconnecting battery as long as you know your radio code.

regarding the TB. when reconnecting battery, turn the ignition key to on but don't start the car, leave it for 10 secs and then start the car. let it idle for 10mins. should be fine

Thanks Abdus!!

 

[<tuffty/>]

when i connect the battery make sure i have ignition on one click??

The click before starting it (thinks its one click...)

will it be ok just to take it all off then disconnect the battrey after i have cleaned it then connect it again,

Should be, I didn't try it this way as I already had the battery disconnected. General recommendation though is to disconnect the battery before undertaking anything to do with the electrics, there is no reason why you shouldn't disconnect before cleaning the TB

Also is there a gasket between the throttle body?if so can i reuse it or should i have bought another one?

I would buy a new one. It 'could' be reused but normally they are hard and will need some hylomar or similar to reseal properly. They aren't expensive, about a couple of quid so not worth skimping on IMO...

<tuffty/>

 

[S3-Oski]

Hi all thanks for your help, ok i got it off no problems it was so dirty, a little bit of oil lookes as so it was colloected in the groove of my intercooler pipe is this normal?

I have some pics of how dirty it was will upload them as its was very bad hopefuly cure my probs i have a few questions now,

1 when i gently push the butterfly valve back where it has been sitting ithas a thick black ring of gunk the whole way round i have cleaned this off i needed an old tooth brush as the cloth anc carb cleaner was not cutting it, now when i release the buttery valve it goes back but i can see day light through the top and bottom like it has not closed up tight, will the alignment close it up tight? and it obviously sits at an angle a bit when closed tight,

2 When i put them 4xalen bolts back how tight shall i do them as i dont want to break the thread as they go straight into metal? sorry for the questions im no mechanic, just thought i would give it a go myself, cheer all Oski

 

[Dani_B19]

So how you gone on pal?

 

[S3-Oski]

Thanks to all who helped me in this thread!!!

what i difference its made on idle as i had a slight hunt only happened from last week but on idle would slightly hunt , and through the gears so much more smooth, it feels so different, i most notice it between gear changes, apart from the annoying over rev,

im not to sure if its a placebo but seems alot more reponsive, a definate 100% improvment not suprised at the amount of gunk in there, i have some pics on my phone to upload will do when i source my lead,

I did not see a gasket only like a blue paper bit stuck on the side which i left on there? and i just tightened the alen bolts untill they seem tight as i did not know if they had to be torqued??

Unfourtnately my over rev is still there only sometimes gonna change my clutch switch even though it has not flagged up got to be the most annoying fault in the world!!! really is!

Just got my blowing downpipe? to sort which i have gaskets for, and my over rev is a must, then get new pads disks i will be happy with it, cheers Oski:icon_thumright:

 

[<tuffty/>]

Good work d00de.... glad we could help.

 

[jimbobery]

I did not see a gasket only like a blue paper bit stuck on the side which i left on there? and i just tightened the alen bolts untill they seem tight as i did not know if they had to be torqued??

The blue paper thing is the gasket. When I cleaned my TB the gasket was stuck on and I didn't have a new one so I put it back together and brought a new one when passing by Audi, I think it was 78p.
Its not much effort to replace as you only have to loosen the TB off (no more realigning etc), and mine was stuck on but flacked off in bits so was obviosuly knacked - for the cost and effort its worth not risking a leak IMO.

 

[S3APY]

Before

After

 

[dan77]

Any one done this on an AUM engine, i wouldnt mind have a go at mine but i dont have access to vag-com to do reset, does it need vag-com to reset on AUM or will it sort itself out after a while