A4 clutch biting point - high?
- Thread starter AudiSport
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zeratul
Registered User
I think I've read somewhere before on the forums about the 1.8T A4's clutch having a high biting point. Mine does too, so don't book it into the garage yet! 
Nickynibbles
Damn it where's 7th gear when you need it?!
Yeah the biting point is quite high, you know you havent got a slipping clutch by flooring it in top gear at low revs, no slip means all is ok.
Yeah, it's a lot higher than most cars I've driven. After I've driven the A4 and I jump in the R32 it takes a while to get used to the difference as the R32 has a very low biting point, as soon as you lift your foot from the clutch even slightly it lurches forward.
it really is frustrating.. the clutch bites in the last 10-15mm of travel which makes for a jerky drive if you don't spend your whole time corresing the clutch out really slowly!
Can anything be done for this? It is really starting to p*ss me off?
New or even up-rated clutch?
Can anything be done for this? It is really starting to p*ss me off?
New or even up-rated clutch?
i agree its higher than most cars ive had, but it still bites about 2/3 of the way up and it is a jerky clutch unless you heel and toe it to damp the action.
I don't know if its hydraulic or cable based (cant see down there) but if its hydraulic then its to do with the stroke of the slave cylinder usually, and cable, well that speaks for itself and usually its adjustable or self-adjusting - you should be able to get some degree of control shouldnt you? It would be annoying if you're stuck with it like that.
I dont have a haynes manual but could try and dig out my audi etka discs and see what it says unless anyone knows already what if any the adjustment method is?
I don't know if its hydraulic or cable based (cant see down there) but if its hydraulic then its to do with the stroke of the slave cylinder usually, and cable, well that speaks for itself and usually its adjustable or self-adjusting - you should be able to get some degree of control shouldnt you? It would be annoying if you're stuck with it like that.
I dont have a haynes manual but could try and dig out my audi etka discs and see what it says unless anyone knows already what if any the adjustment method is?
The jerkiness afflicts cars with dual-mass flywheels.
You've got to contend with clutch take-up, as well as both sections of the flywheel moving, before they lock-up.
We offer a lightweight single-mass flywheel, it weighs 7,2 kilos, and besides making the engine rev up more cleanly, it removes the characteristic "judder" or "jerkiness".
The only other option is just to get used to the stock set-up.
You've got to contend with clutch take-up, as well as both sections of the flywheel moving, before they lock-up.
We offer a lightweight single-mass flywheel, it weighs 7,2 kilos, and besides making the engine rev up more cleanly, it removes the characteristic "judder" or "jerkiness".
The only other option is just to get used to the stock set-up.
We can also make the flywheel slightly thicker, this will reduce the clearance between the release bearing, and the pressure plate.
It also offers slightly increased clamping force.
It also offers slightly increased clamping force.
I just had my clutch replaced at just under 90k miles! The symptom was slip in 3rd upwards, especially under strain of accelleration on the motorway. Overtaking on country roads couldn't even be achieved.
The reason was a broken sealing flange which apparently soaked the clutch in oil, hence reducing traction. If it wasn't for this, it would have had a few more miles in it.
However I have now noticed that the biting point is much lower, considering originally it was worse than my wifes 12 year old Peugeot with 120k on the clock.
The reason was a broken sealing flange which apparently soaked the clutch in oil, hence reducing traction. If it wasn't for this, it would have had a few more miles in it.
However I have now noticed that the biting point is much lower, considering originally it was worse than my wifes 12 year old Peugeot with 120k on the clock.
i had a new clutch fitted when i bought the carand it seemed that within a few weeks the bite was high again, after asking the garage and several people on here they all said that this was normal,so dont be suprised if it get higher quickly.
you get used to it really quickly. Most people only drive one vehicle so they only notice if they have to drive another car, it wont bother you after a wee while honestly you just compensate automatically.
1.8JT
Boots Electric
Sorry to hijack this thread but does anybody know the approximate cost of replacing the clutch on this car? Thanks
about £380 for the dual-mass flywheel, and £105 for the clutch kit, plus vat plus fitting....the DM flywheel often has to be replaced with the clutch as they both get twatted when the clutch goes. You can replace it with a single flywheel but heres a link to kits at that price (theyre one of the cheaper sites) and the price is for the 1.8T BFB motor:
http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d4520.html
http://www.brakepartssuperstore.org.uk/contents/en-uk/d4520.html
AndyMac
Retired from service
I was quoted £700 at a VAG specialist for my TDi 130, which includes the dual mass flywheel, which I'm told usually has to be done at the same time and is around £350 just for the part! Suffice to say I haven't had it done yet. Was only £200 for my B5 2.8Q, why is nothing cheap & simple?
a ****** 2006 Ferrari F430 coupe clutch kit (inc flywheel) is a grand, and a maserati one is £525....so what the hell is it with Audi clutches costing £500 for theirs???
Daylight robbery thats what.
Daylight robbery thats what.
Mine's started to slip in 3rd/4th gear under heavy acceleration. The car has only done 68k and I know that this is going to cost a pretty penny. The biting point just got higher and higher and it has gotten increasingly difficult to change gear without a jerkiness that is doing my neck no good. If anyone knows of a place in the SE that is recommended please let me know!
I risked it and went through a
Rea good back street garage my father recomended in South Wales. They seemed very honest and did a good job. New clutch, sealing flange, inside and outside clean £500.
£700+ for two main dealers here in the south. £500 pounds for Dialynx - That was just for the clutch.
Rea good back street garage my father recomended in South Wales. They seemed very honest and did a good job. New clutch, sealing flange, inside and outside clean £500.
£700+ for two main dealers here in the south. £500 pounds for Dialynx - That was just for the clutch.
All my Audis have had high cluth biting points.. it seems the norm. My current car has had a high biting point ever since I owned it with 13000 miles on it. I's no different at 40k. My wifes Fiesta is very similar and that's an 06.
