Project B5 RS4 Sedan...
- Thread starter Siena
- Start date
Removed the wiring harness, ready for modification. Includes removal of the auto box ECU / connector, replacement of the main ECU connector with the VEMS one...
Flywheel fitted to S8 motor...
6 speed gearbox trial fitted, to determine timing reference...
Flywheel fitted to S8 motor...
6 speed gearbox trial fitted, to determine timing reference...
Timing sensor location...
Engine's on TDC, in theory the 2 missing teeth should be close by. But, it would appear the 60-2 teeth location is different between auto and manual cars.
Each tooth is 6 degrees. The sensor location on the transmission is 11 teeth before the timing reference. The orange paint denotes the sensor location with the transmission removed.
So, the EMS will be mapped to recognise the settings...
Engine's on TDC, in theory the 2 missing teeth should be close by. But, it would appear the 60-2 teeth location is different between auto and manual cars.
Each tooth is 6 degrees. The sensor location on the transmission is 11 teeth before the timing reference. The orange paint denotes the sensor location with the transmission removed.
So, the EMS will be mapped to recognise the settings...
Awesome project, all I can say is that your car looks meaner in real life and lower also. Often see it when I am biking to work.
Spot on 
loving the work... just had my engine apart. Isnt there a spacer plate that sits between the box and the block on manual cars?
loving the work... just had my engine apart. Isnt there a spacer plate that sits between the box and the block on manual cars?
- Joined
- Jan 30, 2008
- Messages
- 18,708
- Reaction score
- 909
- Points
- 113
- Location
- Glenrothes, Fife, Scotland
i think the spacer is to accomodate the dual mass flywheel?
Do you have to shorten the input shaft on the gearbox when bolting it up without this plate?
Do you have to shorten the input shaft on the gearbox when bolting it up without this plate?
Timing ring is not bolted on.
It's in the correct place, and machined directly into the flywheel.
Spacer is for DMF, yes.
Not required here.
The stock propshaft has enough plunge to acommodate the tranny without the spacer, which is 11,2mm.
But just in case, I have an RS4 propshaft too.
Yes I do mate.. Ipswich.. I don't have a Audi any more tho I have a E34 M5 but looking to get a S4.
Ohhh crap, i have just installed my SM flywheel and retained the spacer plate
will having it on damage my new clutch? or should i take it off ASAP?Ohhh crap, i have just installed my SM flywheel and retained the spacer plate
Spacer plate?
How thick is it? If it's thick enough, it wouldn't damage your clutch, it'll just mean your clutch slave cylinder piston will have further to travel, before it actually pushes the pivot arm.
It could also cause difficulty in engaging gear, as the clutch pedal will reach its stop, long before the actuating pivot arm does...
Its the standard audi spacer plate between the box and the block for the 1.8T prob around 1.5mm thick IIRC. The clutch works very well and has no chatter or problems engaging / disengaging.
Well guys, updates have been slow in coming along.
I've been pretty busy, between setting up my business, getting the website set up, organising my "getting hitched" for next autumn, I haven't had a great deal of time for Outlaw.
But, the hard work's almost over, haven't slept properly for 3 weeks.
I can now focus on Outlaw. Anybody got front driveshafts for a 1.8T / V6 manual FWD?
Still need to buy a clutch, then all the ingredients are at hand.
I've been pretty busy, between setting up my business, getting the website set up, organising my "getting hitched" for next autumn, I haven't had a great deal of time for Outlaw.
But, the hard work's almost over, haven't slept properly for 3 weeks.
I can now focus on Outlaw. Anybody got front driveshafts for a 1.8T / V6 manual FWD?
Still need to buy a clutch, then all the ingredients are at hand.
I have two front drive shafts off my 1.8t minus inner CV's.
kept those for the RS4 hybrids I am running to mate with the RS4 hub carriers.
any use?
kept those for the RS4 hybrids I am running to mate with the RS4 hub carriers.
any use?
Havent been on here for over a year now due to illness, thanks for making me smile, one hell of a project. I'm def getting a supercharger for my 30v now, you have inspired me thanks.
I done a timing belt and waterpump kit on a B5 RS4 today.
Has covered 93,000 miles, and had a stage 3+ clutch fitted at 68,000.
The clutch feels very heavy, he hasn't gotten used to it in all this time.
I've decided to go for a stock RS4 clutch for my car, will be ordering it next week.
I still need a pair of driveshafts, off a manual B5 1,8T/V6 FWD. There've been enough cars breaking on here of late, someone must have a pair. C'mon guys!
Has covered 93,000 miles, and had a stage 3+ clutch fitted at 68,000.
The clutch feels very heavy, he hasn't gotten used to it in all this time.
I've decided to go for a stock RS4 clutch for my car, will be ordering it next week.
I still need a pair of driveshafts, off a manual B5 1,8T/V6 FWD. There've been enough cars breaking on here of late, someone must have a pair. C'mon guys!
My clutch turned up today - pressure plate, friction disc and release bearing.
Also got a needle bearing, as the S8 was an outo, and had a steel bush inserted in the crank, to support the torque converter.
Still after a pair of 1,8T/V6 FWD driveshafts, else I'll just have to purchase them new as well.
Also got a needle bearing, as the S8 was an outo, and had a steel bush inserted in the crank, to support the torque converter.
Still after a pair of 1,8T/V6 FWD driveshafts, else I'll just have to purchase them new as well.
Blue_Thunder
Registered User
So come on Siena, when is the likely completion date of the project?
These constant cliffhangers are killing us!!!
These constant cliffhangers are killing us!!!
BT, it'll be done once I have everything in place, I'll never pull a daily driver apart, untill every conceivable part is to hand.
Getting married next year too, so that's definitely a priority.
Getting married next year too, so that's definitely a priority.
auroan
Registered User
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,671
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Bradford
- Website
- www.dkwracing.uk
Can the drive shafts be removed and still leave a car capable of being pushed in and out of a garage ?
Yes, they can.
Obviously, you couldn't tow the car a great distance without ruining the wheel bearings, but if the car's a breaker, it wouldn't matter.
Obviously, you couldn't tow the car a great distance without ruining the wheel bearings, but if the car's a breaker, it wouldn't matter.
auroan
Registered User
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,671
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Bradford
- Website
- www.dkwracing.uk
Ok can you drop me a PM on how to remove them and I'll have a pair of V6 shafts off this weekend for you.
Auroan, you need to undo the central hub bolt.
Very tight, so needs to be done with the weight of the car on the wheels, and wheels firmly braked / chocked.
Then with the car raised and supported, remove both front wheels.
Disconnect both lower arms, and the uprights should pull away from the driveshaft splines.
Next is the inner CV-to-transmission bolts.
These are spline-headed bolts, and it's wise to make sure they are free of grit, so the spline tool can be firmly tapped into the heads. If the spline bits arent fully inserted, you run the risk of stripping the splines.
Once all 6 per side are undone, you may need to lightly tap the inner CV's with a soft mallet, then they should crack free. Withdraw them from the outside, job done.
You'll just need to re-connect the uprights to the lower arms, then the car can be pushed.
Very tight, so needs to be done with the weight of the car on the wheels, and wheels firmly braked / chocked.
Then with the car raised and supported, remove both front wheels.
Disconnect both lower arms, and the uprights should pull away from the driveshaft splines.
Next is the inner CV-to-transmission bolts.
These are spline-headed bolts, and it's wise to make sure they are free of grit, so the spline tool can be firmly tapped into the heads. If the spline bits arent fully inserted, you run the risk of stripping the splines.
Once all 6 per side are undone, you may need to lightly tap the inner CV's with a soft mallet, then they should crack free. Withdraw them from the outside, job done.
You'll just need to re-connect the uprights to the lower arms, then the car can be pushed.
auroan
Registered User
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2004
- Messages
- 1,671
- Reaction score
- 5
- Points
- 38
- Location
- Bradford
- Website
- www.dkwracing.uk
