Nice little mod youve done there Nigel, if you think its worth having then its worth doing !
Thankyou very much, nice to see some appreciation, yeah was worth doing just really to prove it could be done & also I wanted to learn some more about the starting process for another mod thinking about.
Its nice to see some one working out the wiring for themselves, it may help in other ways if you ever have an electrical problem.
Yeah was a learning curve so I'm glad I did & taught me thing or 20 about it all.
Just for info you dont need the diodes, the red wire from the ignition switch is connected to one side of the starter relay coil, the other side of the relay coil is controlled by the engine ECU, this is how it stops the starter motor from engaging when the engine is running. You could use any feed you wanted one side of the start button (even a permanent one) because until the engine ECU sees that the ignition is switched on it wont allow the crank relay to operate.
I did some further checks fella, I will probably use the diodes/relay as the ecu doesnt cut the power at all after starting, the red wire is still powered even after starting if you did turn the key or say your kid pressed the button etc ,it still puts power on the circuit, so the cut of of power is actually further down the line mate, from the steering wheel control module onwards to the starter motor, I suspect its the module that it stops at, might stick the meter on that later to prove it to myself incase I need for future ref.
Its more to protect the starter button TBH & at same time take precautions on the starter circuits that were there already, as I dont wanna take that all apart for a while, have other mods to do 1st, so better safe than sorry as a short somewhere could cause major issues especially being its the start process.
Marc, ref your post from the buttons thread, you have to take the connector of the back of the barrel mate I'm afraid as there's no slack in the wires to clip onto TBH, there's a further plug further down the wire about 3 inches that sits under the barrel & faces down to plug into the top of the steering wheel control module, thats why soldering is probably best as no room for any connectors to sit in there, I'll update when its completed as to what I did, I prefer connectors so easily dismantled, gotta go to Maplins anyway to get some diodes etc so see if they have some tiny scotch locks can use.