RS4 Engine start button on S3

Yeah thats on the cards but parking sensors & then full closure 1st as I hate closing everything when I stop & I had on all my cars, just made life so much easier.

Have to see if I can retrofit the a4 camera as that goes under the lip of the boot handle area where rear number plates are.

Without me having to go pull out & meter it do you know if that C2 is a ground or powered wire?
 
Thats ok just wanna put a link wire in touching the pins to see if mute will work so I know what to do when I do the parking sensors.

Yeah Isaac finished it as per here:

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/showthread.php?t=55538

Which has been added to my list of threads to keep until I'm ready to do.
 
So its a dead circuit not a ground etc, when you give it 12v what does it do exactly mate, switches to aux/camera if installed?

Cause I stuck meter on & it did squat so mystified me slightly until now.
 
It will switch to the camera/media adpater picture if installed. When that equipment is not fitted it should just change to a black screen. You also need adaption channel 4 of the RNS-E changing from 0 to 1, in addition you need a software index of at least 0550.
 
Ok so thats no good to me at moment until I do rear camera, ok

I will have to search see if the dsg gearbox has a signal wire I can use for reverse otherwise its the reverse light.

Thanks for your help Isaac.
 
Nice little mod youve done there Nigel, if you think its worth having then its worth doing !

Its nice to see some one working out the wiring for themselves, it may help in other ways if you ever have an electrical problem.

Just for info you dont need the diodes, the red wire from the ignition switch is connected to one side of the starter relay coil, the other side of the relay coil is controlled by the engine ECU, this is how it stops the starter motor from engaging when the engine is running. You could use any feed you wanted one side of the start button (even a permanent one) because until the engine ECU sees that the ignition is switched on it wont allow the crank relay to operate.
 
Nice little mod youve done there Nigel, if you think its worth having then its worth doing !
Thankyou very much, nice to see some appreciation, yeah was worth doing just really to prove it could be done & also I wanted to learn some more about the starting process for another mod thinking about.

Its nice to see some one working out the wiring for themselves, it may help in other ways if you ever have an electrical problem.
Yeah was a learning curve so I'm glad I did & taught me thing or 20 about it all.
Just for info you dont need the diodes, the red wire from the ignition switch is connected to one side of the starter relay coil, the other side of the relay coil is controlled by the engine ECU, this is how it stops the starter motor from engaging when the engine is running. You could use any feed you wanted one side of the start button (even a permanent one) because until the engine ECU sees that the ignition is switched on it wont allow the crank relay to operate.
I did some further checks fella, I will probably use the diodes/relay as the ecu doesnt cut the power at all after starting, the red wire is still powered even after starting if you did turn the key or say your kid pressed the button etc ,it still puts power on the circuit, so the cut of of power is actually further down the line mate, from the steering wheel control module onwards to the starter motor, I suspect its the module that it stops at, might stick the meter on that later to prove it to myself incase I need for future ref.

Its more to protect the starter button TBH & at same time take precautions on the starter circuits that were there already, as I dont wanna take that all apart for a while, have other mods to do 1st, so better safe than sorry as a short somewhere could cause major issues especially being its the start process.

Marc, ref your post from the buttons thread, you have to take the connector of the back of the barrel mate I'm afraid as there's no slack in the wires to clip onto TBH, there's a further plug further down the wire about 3 inches that sits under the barrel & faces down to plug into the top of the steering wheel control module, thats why soldering is probably best as no room for any connectors to sit in there, I'll update when its completed as to what I did, I prefer connectors so easily dismantled, gotta go to Maplins anyway to get some diodes etc so see if they have some tiny scotch locks can use.
 
Ok marcus, Vag back online so mods will be started soon. watch this space
 
Yeh my wifes nissan micra has keyless entry keyless start same as my recently sold MX5
 
Just a quick update on my progress.

On Monday I removed the centre console and fitted the lighter and start button and connected it to the illumination feed. I also dropped two wires down the side of console to connect to the ignition. When I had the console out I decided to take the time to route my TV antennae properly (they were just lying under the passenger seat). It was getting late when I got that done and the console reinstalled, so I decided to leave the ignition wiring for another day. Hopefully I'll get around to that in the next week or so.

I have step by step photos of the console removal, so will add the ignition wiring to that when I do it and then post the full guide when finished.
 
Prrking system is on the A3 DIS too, shown here at around 1:50:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dxc-6w4G0V0&feature=related

Damn it man now I gotta go look into that for my a3, so would need a new colour DIS aswell, shittttttttt, lol,lol, hows the new system work, it must have sensors all over the place, gonna do a search on etka aswell for parts as it must be fairly simple to install & just connect to the can & program.

Then again I do want the S3 sportback DSG/STRonic so might just buy it next year with, urrrrmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm

Mark I would just start a new thread for the install mate as this one is now 6 pages long & it would save people going through it all to get info, I am due to goto maplins tomorrow to get the diodes, relay & fuses, also gonna get some pcb's etc to maybe build a board with wires hanging of to connect to, I wonder if anyone would be interested in buying that board when done???????
 
Finally got the start button wired into the ignition this morning with a little help from Nigel (Thanks again!). I've taken photos at the various stages of the install and will post the full procedure up later tonight or tomorrow.

Stay tuned.
 
Ah Ok. Thanks for clearing that up. Still, I've wanted to change the cig lighter for the flip one like my old B6 used to have so might just have to pop one of these in as well!

I seem to be running out of stuff to do!
 
I'm still battling over my trigger wires for mirrors as I have figured out how to fold/unfold the mirrors easily, just need that damn trigger wire, whole door panel of wiring loom removed, this is gonna take a while as they changed lock wiring systems I think, I though it would be reverse polarity on 2 wires for locking etc like mirrors but seems to have about 6 wires with maybe alternating 12 volt circuits, really need the wiring schematics anyone????

I think even other audi's would have same locking system so anyone got wiring schematics for say A4 B6 onwards, Isaac you got any mate?
 
I have but they are all on my work PC. I seem to recall a thread where someone already did the auto-folding mirrors when you lock/unlock the doors. I see if I can find it..........

EDIT - here we go, try this, Its on a B6 but I'm sure the principle must be the same?
 
Yeah i did it on my S3 but wirings changed a little from what I can remember, I did a full closure & mirrors fold/unfold system, I can do that but need a trigger from locks, but checked with meter & the measurements I'm getting are weird, I'm thinking they are using the principle of 1 wire use from door lock button & just alternate down that wire the different currents/voltages which then tells the control module/lock module what to do, this saves on multiple wires, but that would seem to be wrong as there are 7 wires on the door lock, joy long haul moddddddd
 
I have but they are all on my work PC. I seem to recall a thread where someone already did the auto-folding mirrors when you lock/unlock the doors. I see if I can find it..........

EDIT - here we go, try this, Its on a B6 but I'm sure the principle must be the same?

Yeah been reading that one & studying the diagram, something doesnt seem quite right on his schematic, its the pretty much same diagram I will use for my car but his trigger is from the ignition, I wanna do on locking system, easily see how he triggers both ways but its IMHO not a good design totally, cause it would leave power running permanently on both circuits when car is turned on/off which would over time make the relays/timers go wrong I beleive, constant needs to be switched some how so not always powering to the timers.

Would have been better to use 2 triggers for fold/unfold with power with 2 dpdt or 2 dpst relays so relay resting points when not powered always cut of power to timers so no chance of the constant power making the relays, timers or mirror motors go faulty, IMHO, I will investigate when I have found my wires I need.

I know the mirror motors do have a cut of but I would be concerned about constant power being applied to the circuit anyway as with constant power being force fed to the components all the time it would IMHO make them fail at some stage, where as 10 seconds of power few times a day you can see would be far better on the circuits, his seems to indicate power is constant on either circuit fold/unfold at all times, some studying to do further I fear.
 
Well I studied the whole door mirror wiring system this afternoon, god soon I'll be working at audi if I keep working through this wiring, lol, the motors dont have any brake systems inside as I took the motors apart & tested on a 12v supply & it just keep spinning even when I applied pressure to the motor spindle so you cant leave power on the motors, it has to be timed & power removed or the motors will burn out very quickly. Reason why they dont burn out now is the door modules do all the power on/off with signals from the door switches so modules apply power on/off for a specific duration, so when mod wiring you must wire into timed relays so power cuts of after say 10 seconds or you're looking at new folding mirrors as motors are not seperate.

You cant pickup from the door mirror knob as it uses different voltages to signal to the door module directly not direct to the mirrors themselves, aswell as the mirror glass power, it basically depending on the knob position sends different voltages down to the door module via 1 maybe 2 wires which inturn instructs the module to send signals to the folding part or the glass movement part, quite clever really as keeps wiring to a minmal, using different voltages to signal the door module for different components & uses resistors inline on each knob position to lower the voltages so the door module knows which circuits need to work, I've heard of that before to be honest & its very good I think, but pain in **** to mod to.

Anyway little bit of info for you, when I've found my triggers for fold/unfold & the closure system I'll post.