Not another Nogaro!!!



Sorry let me try that again. Linking to Facebook definitely doesn’t work.

Stuart B said:
just get a second job, sell off the spare S3 etc etc get this thing safely screaming down the road - you have rewritten the book on the S3 modifications you have achieved....
...Is your coil failure not more likely to be caused by whatever the issue was rather than the reason the issue existed?
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Funny you say these things!
I do what I can do make extra monies - mainly rescueing or upgrading clusters.

I have gotten a certificate of roadworthiness on the daily so now it is ready to be moved on.

And thanks for the kind words. I’m humbled.

As for the coilpacks .... well they were just an old set of coils so once I changed them... well I’ll let the video do the talking.
 
Stuart B said:
nope - after all the complaints / whining etc - I have owned this for ages compared to other cars.

I need to get another "family" car first then I think I want an S4. but I have bought mods for this car and am too honest to sell it for anything more than "a project with an MOT and I cannot guarantee it will make it home" especially as I had to drive it home without a clutch the other day, reminded me of being a teenager in my escort mark 2 getting back from holiday from Swanage as a learner with only 2nd and 4th, no starter motor, handbrake or reverse gear and I had to drive it with the choke out and had to have the heater on to stop it overheating.
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Hahahaha that sounds like a day you’ll never forget!!!

I have found my car to be super reliable. I did make a 2000km round trip interstate in it before taking it to the tuners. So I know that mechanically it s sound. Lucky me :)
 
you make your own luck - and essentially you have made your own S3 Ian.

good looking video - has the car been much better since being professionally mapped? even though they were not satisfied they could take it to its limit? you must at least feel confident the fuel, air and spark are all good and of course the stopping part :)
 
Logging shows there’s not much timing pull and looks like fuelling is deinfitley keeping up with this tune.

I might run the 98 out and revisit the e85 tune...

But for now. It’s a lot of fun and am happy with the outcome. I know I don’t have any numbers or graphs but this was due to the circumstances and have been told by my tuner that we’d tee it up in the new year :racer:
 
It would be interesting to see what android torque estimates and MAF readings versus the Dyno covered to crank etc. Especially when 4 AWD Dyno runs. What are your MAF g/s like 320?

or are you MAF-less? I cant remember if there is a limit on an S3 MAF of 300 or something?
 
The tune is mafless so the Maf reads flat in all my logs. The Maf housing is an 85mm one too...

There is a reading from the throttle body but that is a hemi throttle body so there would need to be some form of conversion to be done.
 
Tidied up some wiring that was needed to get a clean signal from the ecu for logging and made them swappable. Was looking into switches but CBF

B3B47C5D 55B6 4B1E B787 8E64EBD189C1
2E3E3434 AEE3 4359 A2D0 36F4EF468A1E
So connecting both ends of yellow to the to the grey wire = bypass

Also installed auto headlights while I had the lower plastic cover off.
 
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IanPG said:
Tidied up some wiring that was needed to get a clean signal from the ecu for logging and made them swappable. Was looking into switches but CBF

View attachment 144514
View attachment 144515
So connecting both ends of yellow to the to the grey wire = bypass

Also installed auto headlights while I had the lower plastic cover off.
Click to expand...


What did you use for the auto lights @IanPG ?

Is it the R-style kit?
 
IanPG said:
Tidied up some wiring that was needed to get a clean signal from the ecu for logging and made them swappable. Was looking into switches but CBF
Click to expand...

I used a switch when I had my liquid gauge... found I started getting comms issues port flashing and with VCDS...

When I removed liquid I removed the switch and soldered it all up again and didn't have an issue again...

K-Line comms are a iffy at the best of times :/

<tuffty/>
 
warren9022 said:
What did you use for the auto lights @IanPG ?

Is it the R-style kit?
Click to expand...
Just a bit of kit off eBay from a golf/Bora/etc. it plugs into the OEM headlight control’s hardness plug and then you gotta swap the knobs around.
Works a treat! Took it out for a test drive last night and can confirm the sensor works well and switches off wen driving into, say, a servo.

I’ll try make a DIY post

<tuffty/> said:
I used a switch when I had my liquid gauge... found I started getting comms issues port flashing and with VCDS...

When I removed liquid I removed the switch and soldered it all up again and didn't have an issue again...

K-Line comms are a iffy at the best of times :/

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
What kind of switch did you put? I couldn’t figure it out. I was thinking there would need to be two switches to each side of the connection to be able to completely bypass the rest of the canbus.

P.s. Merry Christmas all!!!
 
IanPG said:
What kind of switch did you put? I couldn’t figure it out. I was thinking there would need to be two switches to each side of the connection to be able to completely bypass the rest of the canbus.
Click to expand...
Was a changeover switch to route the k-line between the liquid gauge and the obd port... started getting flash errors and was a little tired of having to take the ECU out all the time to bench flash

<tuffty/>
 
out of interest is your ECU Immo Off? as Me7-Logger doesn't work properly I was advised by Nyet on nefmoto its because the K-line is interfered with by the cluster - could this be why your switch caused an issue?
 
<tuffty/> said:
Erm.... No!

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Dammit. I need an example hahahaha

Stuart B said:
out of interest is your ECU Immo Off? as Me7-Logger doesn't work properly I was advised by Nyet on nefmoto its because the K-line is interfered with by the cluster - could this be why your switch caused an issue?
Click to expand...
IMMO is still on. I dont have a switch. At the sampling rate the tuners wanted they need a direct line from the ecu to obd. I’m able to get it working at 20 a second via Oem wiring but they wanted 50 samples a second which... when coupled with colormfa .... made for a dirty line.
 
I was actually talking to Tuffty causing interference with the k-line.

Incidentally, do you still have your direct k-line to odb? That was the advice I was given to get me7logger working.
 
Stuart B said:
I was actually talking to Tuffty causing interference with the k-line.

Incidentally, do you still have your direct k-line to odb? That was the advice I was given to get me7logger working.
Click to expand...
Oh. Lol

I’ve hooked it back to the OEM wiring :)
 
Time off = more modding.

- returning the helper springs back onto the struts and topping them off with adjustable camber tops.

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31418 pm

- this is how they should be layered
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31437 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31444 pm

- then you are left behind with these as redundant
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31452 pm

- another mod - extinguisher bracket
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30901 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30910 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30921 pm

- courtesty of Kap Industries (supporting local biz)
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30929 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30939 pm

- had to space things out a little so it fit
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30948 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 30957 pm

- plastic cover back on.
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31005 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31012 pm

- nice and snug and most importantly, secure and easy to access
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31020 pm

- seat still slides the full travel back and forth
Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31028 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31036 pm

Screen Shot 2017 12 26 at 31043 pm
 
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IanPG said:
Just a bit of kit off eBay from a golf/Bora/etc. it plugs into the OEM headlight control’s hardness plug and then you gotta swap the knobs around.
Works a treat! Took it out for a test drive last night and can confirm the sensor works well and switches off wen driving into, say, a servo.
Click to expand...

I’ve ordered the R-style kit that also gives you the coming/leaving home function and still allows you to retain the original switch. Fingers crossed it’s as good a bit of kit as it looks :grin:
 
Like that extinguisher bracket Ian.

EVERY highly modified car should carry an extinguisher in my opinion.

My old a3 went up in flames when Lewis owned it due to a loose clip on the fuel rail. Extinguisher could have saved it.
 
Prawn said:
Like that extinguisher bracket Ian.

EVERY highly modified car should carry an extinguisher in my opinion.

My old a3 went up in flames when Lewis owned it due to a loose clip on the fuel rail. Extinguisher could have saved it.
Click to expand...
Yep I been waiting for a bracket like this to show up. That extinguisher has been sat on my bedroom floor for hrmmm.. 4 months? About time I get it in the car as the weather is warming up!

Definitely gives me peace of mind. Except.... it doesn’t have a hose lol
 
IanPG said:
Yep I been waiting for a bracket like this to show up. That extinguisher has been sat on my bedroom floor for hrmmm.. 4 months? About time I get it in the car as the weather is warming up!

Definitely gives me peace of mind. Except.... it doesn’t have a hose lol
Click to expand...

In that case you'd better scan it for fault codes and do a smoke test :blink: I do with all my extinguishers!
 
Alignment time

I chose the “spirited street driving” option BA39D43C 7AA6 4A26 8E5F DF2187B85F24
 
That’s the one.

I have the sensor hidden in the top right han corner of the windscreen.
Routed it up through the fuse box, undid the rubber moulding, ran the wire up the A pillar and have the sensor sticking out from the inner side of the pillar trim.
 
I couldn’t figure it out with this unit.

Thing is you need to be able to use the knob to change the settings. The new unit has more “stops” in the knob. I couldn’t find a way to remove the knob itself from the new unit to replace it with the Oem one.

I know with the Oem one you can remove just the knob quite easily. But there wasn’t a way with the replacement one unless you broke the cylindrical housing.

Welll that’s what I saw anyway...
 
hello Ian, can you please tell me where you got your metal bumper rivets from as per page 3? cheers stew
 
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