Another hole in the sump - Shallow sump option or engine risers?

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Hi Guys

Like most of us with lowered cars we occasionally scraped the bottom of our sumps on speed humps, but on this occasion a rock hidden in some snow in North wales was the culprit. So my questions is should I go for the shallow sump that is for sale at Awesome GTI or 10mm engine risers?

Living in the London area means that speed humps are pretty much unavoidable and I have been a speed hump victim a few times so I am careful around them. I only drive about 5k a year and change my oil around 5/6k regardless of time

As always your advice is gratefully received

Ps: Are you able to connect the oil sensor to the shallow sumps?


Thanks Ian
 
I know how you feel pal! :( i think the shallow sump is a perfect fit which everthink connects to!? I looked at engine raises but pretty sure i found on a s3 people avoid them with the clearance issues with the prop an downpipe :s iv been trying to find a sump guard or some sort but havnt found any yet :s would like to know if anyone else knows where to get one! :)
 
Shallow sumps have less oil carrying capacity (an issue IMO) and no oil sensor provision...

Essentially you can try using the engine mount risers, raise the car up or be mindfull of the road... sadly the sumps on the 20v are fairly low and making them lower will always ruun the risk of damage...

Another alternative would be to buy a baffled sump that has the thick plates welded to the bottom to act as a form of protection or at least get some plates welded on..

<tuffty/>
 
ENGINE SPACERS
seems i did a how to on engine spacers a while ago on here on my S3 but is exact same deal as a mk4 / bora
i only recommend fitting 15mm as any more puts stress on dogbone / exhaust / hoses etc etc
and NEVER fit a dogbone spacer - if you catch that then it's bye bye gearbox
the spacers 15mm - obviously only 2 needed per car
enginespacers-211010001.jpg

enginespacers-211010002.jpg

enginespacers-211010003.jpg

the bay
enginespacers-211010005.jpg

cover removed
enginespacers-211010007.jpg

filter off to reveal the mount
enginespacers-211010008.jpg

one bolt can be seen in the above pic others are here
enginespacers-211010010.jpg

enginespacers-211010011.jpg

before you undo these, jack the car up and put a second jack or axle stand under the gearbox to support the weight. when the bolts are removed, raise the car or lower the engineto give you access to slide the mount out
enginespacers-211010013.jpg

these are the parts all removed
enginespacers-211010012.jpg

now you can slide the spacer into position
enginespacers-211010014.jpg

and the post spacer
enginespacers-211010017.jpg

you can now slot the mount back into position. i hadn't got longer bolts as i wanted to use genuine vag items, so i raided my bolt box and found the most suitable length bolts to use (these will be replaced with new items now i know what ones i need)
enginespacers-211010015.jpg

now the mount can be bolted back in place - best to bolt to the body first then raise the box into position and then bolt the mount to the box.
enginespacers-211010018.jpg

enginespacers-211010019.jpg

onto the drivers side - again jack the car up and support the weight of the engine
cover off
enginespacers-211010006.jpg

header tank out
enginespacers-211010021.jpg

carbon canister out
enginespacers-211010023.jpg

then pull the p/s tank res out of the way and undo the brace (lost a few pics here)
i didn't have to remove the mount completely, just loosen the bolts and raise the engine the slide the spacer in
enginespacers-211010024.jpg

enginespacers-211010025.jpg

i used the same longer vag bolts as used on the gearbox mount and bolted it down, then added the post spacer
enginespacers-211010027.jpg

refitted the brace and p/s res
enginespacers-211010028.jpg

refitted the carbon canister, header tank and both covers
enginespacers-211010032.jpg

pic from before the spacers
s3-211010001.jpg

and after
enginespacers-211010029.jpg

enginespacers-211010031.jpg

i'm happy with the results!
tools used were;
10mm, 13mm, 16mm, 18mm sockets 5mm allen key flat head and phillips screwdriver
1/2 ratchet and long extension bar, 3/4 ratchet and mid extension bar
cutters, pliers and a lever bar
enginespacers-211010020.jpg
 
Thanks for the advice guys, serious food for thought! Could new engine mounts aid the situation as Ive never changed them in the 5 plus years I've owned it.
 
Won't lift them up much if at all... worn mounts normally wobble horizontally not vertically

<tuffty/>
 
lowered the front a little more after that pic, never touched the sump after the engine spacers and i drove it very very hard. only an S3 after all ;)

it is up for sale elsewhere now though for £20k
 
Can you remember where you got the spacers from as I have only found 40mm ones, and that is a step too far as I think it will cause issues with the downpipe & Prop
Thanks again
Ian
 
Well, yeah, I can see why it might have scraped just a tad there. Did you forget to install the springs or what?
 
i used to make the spacers and sell them on ebay but was only making £3 profit per set as i sold them with brand new longer genuine bolts.

creations motorsport sell them on ebay, i belive they copied my design but cannot prove it. anyway.......

VW GOLF MK4 AUDI A3 1.9 TDI SEAT LEON SKODA OCTAVIA TDI ENGINE SPACERS ASZ ARL | eBay

no i was running koni coils on that i think, was a fun car - shame it was yellow though.
 
There is also an OEM steel sump guard- here

I know quite a few diesel people had them fitted not sure about petrol though.
 
Hi Paul

Thanks for this, but do you know of any UK sellers other than the Main Stealers?

No unfortunately I don't, I think some companies in the states have made there own version "panzer" plate comes to mind?

EDIT

Have a nosey here, list of parts you need to fit one, assuming it's all the same from golf to a3.
 
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i used to make the spacers and sell them on ebay but was only making £3 profit per set as i sold them with brand new longer genuine bolts.

creations motorsport sell them on ebay, i belive they copied my design but cannot prove it. anyway.......

VW GOLF MK4 AUDI A3 1.9 TDI SEAT LEON SKODA OCTAVIA TDI ENGINE SPACERS ASZ ARL | eBay

no i was running koni coils on that i think, was a fun car - shame it was yellow though.

Haha it was a fast car faisal_16's face was priceless (p.s. thank F for haldex haha)

I ran these spacers too, in my MK4 and TT. Worth every penny. didn't have to mess about with stupid oil starving shallow sumps with no level sensor + never touched the bottom of my sump again. simple to install too... Here's the TT and MK4

376828_10150944502816046_334872998_n.jpg



148495_10151117249856046_2016108447_n.jpg


I drove (by mistake) the mk4 air'd out across a car park, dragged the subframe but not even a mark on the sump
 
digging up an old thread...

If going to move to a top mount setup - would using these engine spacers render the top mount turbo fitment too tight??? maybe the pipes won't clear the strubrace?

Screen Shot 2016 10 26 at 074531


Screen Shot 2016 10 26 at 074631
 
If going to move to a top mount setup - would using these engine spacers render the top mount turbo fitment too tight??? maybe the pipes won't clear the strubrace?

Can do

Depends on how the specific top mount positions the specific turbo you're thinking of

My old top mount mani meant my GT2860RS cleared the strut brace by about 4mm
A GT3076 with its larger housing didn't fit - and that was without raiser

To update some of the info in this thread

The short sumps hold exactly the same quantity of oil as the normal sumps (no increased risk of oil starvation, less if anything)

The short sumps can be DIY retrofitted with oil sensors

Once you've got a short sump fitted you access the sump via removing new steel base plate rather than having flywheel bolt in the way

Easier/cheaper to baffle too

Only a dry sump conversion gives better clearance underneath
 
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