Not another Nogaro!!!
- Thread starter IPG
- Start date
I wanted all black wheel bolt covers but i stuffed up the plastidipping job and it lifted in a couple of sections next to the centre logo.
So i went to peel it off to start again and ended up with this "mistake"
So i went to peel it off to start again and ended up with this "mistake"
- was a little icy tonight in Melbourne
- found me a nice little slip lane (complete with striped ground)
- top down
- then old mate Bumblebee comes along
- calling it a night
Just to log my car's work history
cleaning of the suction pipe
booooooo standard internals! (at least it's super clean PLUS needed to flush out the semi synthetic that the last owner got his mechanic to put in last the last service ... tsk tsk tsk)
all gunk removed from sump & looking very fresh
cleaning of the suction pipe
booooooo standard internals! (at least it's super clean PLUS needed to flush out the semi synthetic that the last owner got his mechanic to put in last the last service ... tsk tsk tsk)
all gunk removed from sump & looking very fresh
had a bit of intermittant coolant leakage... was very weird because it wouldn't happen when the car was running
turns out it was coming from the after run pump. So i removed the bracket and lifted it out the engine bay. The unit is still in tact and motor is still running so I opened it up and saw
- it's a big magnet (the rusted looking thing)
- coolant only runs through the top part of the unit
- there's an o-ring that was the suspect!
- there's the o-ring that seals the coolant from leaking! 2mm thick, 23mm ID
I guess they need changing after a while! Only cost $4AUD
turns out it was coming from the after run pump. So i removed the bracket and lifted it out the engine bay. The unit is still in tact and motor is still running so I opened it up and saw
- it's a big magnet (the rusted looking thing)
- coolant only runs through the top part of the unit
- there's an o-ring that was the suspect!
- there's the o-ring that seals the coolant from leaking! 2mm thick, 23mm ID
I guess they need changing after a while! Only cost $4AUD
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Hi, So for me - this device is regularly running when the engine isn't - and earlier today when I was adjusting my headlights with ignition on, it started running (albeit a bit weakly) even though the engine had not even been started for 3 days? I have in the past unplugged it thinking it would flatten the battery as it was running for ages. Is this something I should consider servicing in the same fashion as you have?
Thanks
It was a great night out! Small but mighty crowd
I serviced my o-ring because it was leaking. Does yours leak?
This pump is supposed to run for ~10 minutes when you turn the ignition on and then run for about 10 minutes after ignition off. I believe it feeds coolant to the turbo pre and post engine running to ensure better cooling of it and protection. Sounds like you have nothing to worry about. If you are concerned maybe check to see if it is turning off after 10 minutes? Flick ignition to on, after run pump should go, read a book or catch some Pokemon for about 10 minutes and come back to see if it is still running or has turned off. Should be off (or wait another couple minutes and it should turn off)
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arh okay thanks - that sounds about right - the reason I didn't think it was cooling the turbo as someone said something about this type of thing not being allowed maybe it was that the turbo isn't allowed to continue to run without the engine running but the water circulating is allowed? this must be why it is both oil and water cooled.
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A wreck of an original K04
oh I see - yes that was what I was thinking of which are not allowed.
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its a "wreck" because it has a cracked hotside and the coldside turbo wheel has a little in / out movement - I cleaned the hot side with Mr Muscle when replacing head gasket and adding the 3inch downpipe. I was tempted to get a service kit but you have to remove the turbo to fit it and then adjust the actuator properly and replace all the oil feed lines. then if you do all that you may as well replace the turbo in its entirety but if you do that you need to change the oil pump and oil pick up, but to do that I need to take the sump off and to do that I will need to drill off those 3 impossible to reach and always rounded off and seized sump bolts, but if I took the sump off with the head also off I may as well change the rods and if I do that I may as well get new pistons and a rebore etc
he swallowed a spider to catch the fly...
its easier to just admit the turbo is a wreck
he swallowed a spider to catch the fly...
its easier to just admit the turbo is a wreck
HAHAHAHAHAHHA
omg that was like over catasrophising to the max!!! It is a slippery slope and sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet
you can always get a service kit as long as the wheels haven't been damaged... which it sounds maybe it has as i understand it the k04 shouldn't have any in/out movement. sure the turbine cannot be as shagged as this
look at the inducer depth...
look at it there... ummm... oops!???
But yeah i guess to do it PROPERLY it is recommended to replace the lines. I did have a go at this myself - you find "tricks" to accessing the bolts and nuts that you need to without having to fully remove everything!!!
omg that was like over catasrophising to the max!!! It is a slippery slope and sometimes you just gotta bite the bullet
you can always get a service kit as long as the wheels haven't been damaged... which it sounds maybe it has as i understand it the k04 shouldn't have any in/out movement. sure the turbine cannot be as shagged as this
look at the inducer depth...
look at it there... ummm... oops!???
But yeah i guess to do it PROPERLY it is recommended to replace the lines. I did have a go at this myself - you find "tricks" to accessing the bolts and nuts that you need to without having to fully remove everything!!!
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Turbo timers are illegal in the UK as they keep the engine running unattended to 'cool down' the engine/turbo... the after run pumps doesn't require the engine to be running and circulate coolant through the turbo to help cool it down
<tuffty/>
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I don't think they are illegal as such,but it is illegal to leave your car with the engine running,unattended.I had one fitted to my last car and had no problems but I always sat in the car until it switched off.
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I think I understand now, thank youits a "wreck" because it has a cracked hotside and the coldside turbo wheel has a little in / out movement - I cleaned the hot side with Mr Muscle when replacing head gasket and adding the 3inch downpipe. I was tempted to get a service kit but you have to remove the turbo to fit it and then adjust the actuator properly and replace all the oil feed lines. then if you do all that you may as well replace the turbo in its entirety but if you do that you need to change the oil pump and oil pick up, but to do that I need to take the sump off and to do that I will need to drill off those 3 impossible to reach and always rounded off and seized sump bolts, but if I took the sump off with the head also off I may as well change the rods and if I do that I may as well get new pistons and a rebore etc
he swallowed a spider to catch the fly...
its easier to just admit the turbo is a wreck
Italian tyres
"Cinturato" means bies belted in italian, did you choose it because you need strong sidewall? If yes, Bridgestone Potenza S001 are very strong aswell PS:
What brakes type did you adopted? I need change discs and pads sure, but it's a good opportunity to change calibers and hoses too. Thank you.
I have the Porsche 986 4-pot brakes on the front
Maybe you have plenty of those "wrecking" in Italia - could be a very good/cheap option for you especially if you are thinking of more power in the future.
Maybe you have plenty of those "wrecking" in Italia - could be a very good/cheap option for you especially if you are thinking of more power in the future.
Depends what power you are planning for.Thank you a lot
You will also need adaptors to be able to connect them to the hub.
Did you read the stickies??? Defines some of the most common options.
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...3-owners-and-other-golf4-platform-cars.96917/
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head has checked in as good and usable (can't believe how much crap was on there)
- next step... valve guides - so i am seeing two part numbers which is annoying
058103415 and 058103419
same same but different?
what about stock VS IE ones?
I was looking at the supertech ones but have been informed that they are shorter hence won't give the valve as much support so would probably need servicing after 50,000k's rather than the stock option that would be good for another 100,000k's
opinions please?
- next step... valve guides - so i am seeing two part numbers which is annoying
058103415 and 058103419
same same but different?
what about stock VS IE ones?
I was looking at the supertech ones but have been informed that they are shorter hence won't give the valve as much support so would probably need servicing after 50,000k's rather than the stock option that would be good for another 100,000k's
opinions please?
the heads are interchangeable with the 1.8t's and the large port (VS the small port on BAM/AMK) allows for better flow for bigger than k04 turbos
Info and pictures on large vs small port
Thank you very much both, I didn't know about this. I don't understand why BAM has large valve intake instead AGU has small one, I would bet on opposite choice before read your post.
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Because it increases low down torque right? Tuffty wrote me about this in other topic:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/small-port-vs-large-port-head.113029/#post-2839645
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/small-port-vs-large-port-head.113029/#post-2839645
