Guide - How to fit a catch can and simplify the PCV system


  1. Received my catch can today so decided to fit that. Took out fuse box and boost sensor that was inside it and moved into trunking underneath airbox. Then fitted catch can in its place. Not a lot of room to work with, not 100% happy but it's in and I had enough by the end of it for today...







    #179345 minutes ago
 
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Anyone done this with braided AN pipes? I've been hunting for a guide and cant find one.

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Has anyone routed crank breather into valve cover and valve cover to catch can. Looks much better like that instead seperate pipes.

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Anyone done this with braided AN pipes? I've been hunting for a guide and cant find one.

Sent from my XT1572 using Tapatalk
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Integrated engineering - you're able to get the VTA catch can kit otherwise just get the block and cam cover fitments and DIY

http://www.urotuning.com/IE-10an-Valve-Cover-Block-Breather-Breather-Adapt-p/iebava15.htm
IEBAVA15-2.jpg
 
What one-way valves are people using to keep servo pressure when the factory one is removed?
 
What one-way valves are people using to keep servo pressure when the factory one is removed?

there is already a check valve just before the servo. behind the heat shield that the DP is in front of - it's wrapped in heat cloth - so no need to worry about extra check valves
 
there is already a check valve just before the servo. behind the heat shield that the DP is in front of - it's wrapped in heat cloth - so no need to worry about extra check valves
Ill just replace with a aftermarker silcone hose then, heard various opinions on if it was needed or not. Perhaps it varies between application S3/golf/cupra etc.
 
I have just removed all the hoses and PCV as they were all cracked and leaking. Car has been running like crap for a while. Replaced O2 sensor pre cat & MAF sensor. Helped a bit but Idle is up and all over the place.
Not sure about putting a valve in, but after deleting the PCV and hoses my brakes are shocking and change from good pedal to rock hard and hardly any
brakes!?
I guess I am going to have to put a valve in like the others have although its been said the S3 doesn't need it?
Not sure whats going on?
Also, has anyone actually checked the Hockey Puk thing out? I have and its is totally see through?
Just looks like it will collect a bit of gunk but apart from that it just seems to be a point for hoses
to meet? No one way valve or anything like that.
 
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Just spent the last 7 hours reading every single post on here about deleting the pcv. First of it's a great guide, nicely laid out and worded, really made me want to go ahead and get on with it. So I've searched for all the stuff on the "bay" and ready to check out, Going for catch can and vent to atmos. Then I carry on reading and it's starting to sound not as apealling, with not having negative pressure in the crankcase when on boost, and making the crankcase work harder to get rid of the gunk. Now I'm really ducking confused about having another t'd of section running from the throttle body with an extra check valve to control the pressure. What I want to know is, is it actually worth doing? and does the original (more simple) way of doing it actually work? My gut instinct tells me to go with the tried and tested way but I don't want anything smoking
 
I have the simple version
blocked throttle body
19mm pipe from oil filter and cam cover
Catch can connected to puc and tip

I don't really get any oil in the catch can but I needed to modify it to add a baffle to collect it.

Not sure about the worth it question.
It reduces oil contamination in the air fuel mixture, but I did it to get rid of the split hoses.
 
I have the simple version
blocked throttle body
19mm pipe from oil filter and cam cover
Catch can connected to puc and tip

I don't really get any oil in the catch can but I needed to modify it to add a baffle to collect it.

Not sure about the worth it question.
It reduces oil contamination in the air fuel mixture, but I did it to get rid of the split hoses.

But if your venting back into the TIP your still putting the vapour back into the intake and still getting contamination so is it worth doing? You'd have to vent to atmos to stop the contamination, but then, from what I've read, you're not getting the negative pressure in the crankcase.
Yes that is originally why I started to read up on it, I seem to have symptoms of split hoses.
 
Your having a laugh at that price. Can achieve the same result with a bit of hose, a empty tin of beans and some wire wool, and you get to eat some beans!!

IE products are priced insane...but I have to admit I have a little fetish for their products :sweatsmile::sweatsmile:
 
By reading up on PCV systems on wiki, the ever so reliable source, you do seem to need some negative pressure to suck the gunk out. Random fact, PCV systems were invented for tanks during world war 2 so the crankcase could breathe without water getting in. Looks like I'll be venting to TIP, hopefully santa will bring me a badger5 v2
 
But if your venting back into the TIP your still putting the vapour back into the intake and still getting contamination so is it worth doing? You'd have to vent to atmos to stop the contamination, but then, from what I've read, you're not getting the negative pressure in the crankcase.
Yes that is originally why I started to read up on it, I seem to have symptoms of split hoses.

When I tried to vent to atmosphere the filter split in half and fell off, the baffle / wire wool is supposed to separate the oil from the vapour. As I said the main reason I did this was to replace the spilt hoses.
 
When I tried to vent to atmosphere the filter split in half and fell off, the baffle / wire wool is supposed to separate the oil from the vapour. As I said the main reason I did this was to replace the spilt hoses.
Yea I'm going to give it a go and vent back in to the tip, going to stuff plenty of baffle in. Thanks for sharing your experiences, I shall try and learn from them. As my AMK is on roughly 135000miles would I benefit from cleaning out the SMICs and throttle body?
 
I still have the smic's but if you are going to the effort of removing them to clean then why not replace with a FMIC.
If you clean the throttle body you need to use VCDS to recalibrate it.
 
Anyone who have had a free air vented catch can with bad experiences?

I am buying the Integrated Engineering vented can I linked above over the new year.
 
I have the exact one - i think just as long as you keep it empty you will be fine

i find that after a while it starts spitting out the top hahaha
 
epic fail

This is the simple setup I have, why is it an "epic fail" ?
Seems fine to me over the last 12 months. And you haven't really provided the 1.8t solution in your illustrations either have you, just that it needs two catch cans.
 
corrected
Except now your oily crap is still getting sucked in through the entire intake system, from TIP to manifold, and it still affects your fuel mixture octane under boost...

@Prawn has set his PCV up in such a way that it always gets sucked through the catch can, by copying and improving the original design.
 
Except now your oily **** is still getting sucked in through the entire intake system, from TIP to manifold, and it still affects your fuel mixture octane under boost...

@Prawn has set his PCV up in such a way that it always gets sucked through the catch can, by copying and improving the original design.
with my setup there is no OIL, only the blowby and minor oil gas will goes to engine,
vented PVC is for race use or big hack of boost like 30 psi and so....
you engine design to have slight vacuum in the crank case by venting the blowby out the ecu (as the maf sensor
read that air ahead entry to engine) will inject more fuel....
final world you going to decrease your engine et life ( as those oil gases help lub the rings) and increase fuel consumption....

there is no actual vent from crank case by removing the PCV valve, the vacuum is the actual drive force for
venting the crank case. only the blowby with the rhythmic pulsing can leave crank case.

#basic
 
this my no 4th setup and works like dream.
 

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ps. if you living in humaded weathers eg. uk the open PCV aka vented is big no.

I assume you are referring to the weather causing too much emulsification in the early mornings blocking the atmosphere filters?
 
I assume you are referring to the weather causing too much emulsification in the early mornings blocking the atmosphere filters?
not only in mornings, any time you start a clod engine, in open PCV the moisture can easily pass your small vent filter into your PCV and make a very nice creampie aka emulsified.
this pic was my ex-setup with clear hose to see what going on inside of them ;)
 

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not only in mornings, any time you start a clod engine, in open PCV the moisture can easily pass your small vent filter into your PCV and make a very nice creampie aka emulsified.
this pic was my ex-setup with clear hose to see what going on inside of them ;)
Isn't the purpose of the catch can to trap this cream pie sludge???

Every time I have emptied mine out, sludge and water come out.

I've now joined it all back up to return to TIP due to idle not being smooth. Need to empty it out to see if return to TIP gives the same sludge/water or not.
 
alright today I had to modifying bracket of my oil catch can for fitting S3 strut bar,
I empty the can, since I dont own a decent camera I recorded it with iphone.
over all I am satisfied with my setup, however I will made some changes since I have 2ndry
separator for under boost which unnecessary ;d






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Isn't the purpose of the catch can to trap this cream pie sludge???

Every time I have emptied mine out, sludge and water come out.

I've now joined it all back up to return to TIP due to idle not being smooth. Need to empty it out to see if return to TIP gives the same sludge/water or not.

I emptied mine out and it was only yellow sludge and water - no oil.
 
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How often do you need to emty them. When mine was fitted i did away with the hockey puck and just ran it straight threw to the catch can and vented to atmosphere and blocked of the hole on the tip.
 
I have emptied mine once, but I don't have a top or bottom to remove, I undo the see through level bits and stick the pipe back into it to start the gloop coming out.

pretty sure my engines on its last legs in any case - road tax on the 1st of November then some mapping fun then sell as a project to someone else to carry the torch onwards.

I did try to vent to atmos but the filter just got wet and blocked and shot off the can.
 
I fitted my catch can a week ago. One pipe from the oil filter housing, joining a pipe from the crank case breather with a t piece, to the catch can, vent back into the TIP. I did this because I had a PCV leak. I emptied it today. It was only half full but it was full of water and a tiny bit of sludge. Is this normal. I’ve also noticed a stronger smell of petrol.
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View attachment 140099 How often do you need to emty them. When mine was fitted i did away with the hockey puck and just ran it straight threw to the catch can and vented to atmosphere and blocked of the hole on the tip.
Sorry for the late reply and I don’t know if you’ve found your answer yet, but going on my experience this last week, in this cold weather I would empty it once a week.
 
I’ve noticed after fitting my catch can blue smoke coming out of my exhaust. I’ve also noticed oil around my oil filler cap after I’ve driven the car quite hard. Have I ****ed my car?
 
I’ve noticed after fitting my catch can blue smoke coming out of my exhaust. I’ve also noticed oil around my oil filler cap after I’ve driven the car quite hard. Have I ****ed my car?

That depends, how did you fit it exactly?