Standard sound system - Looking to add sub

[Utini]

I been reading posts for ages and have finally registered!
I recently took delivery of my sportback 1.6tdi Daytona Grey S line.
My one regret is not taking the advice of my dealer to add the Audi Sound System, but I assumed the standard system in the 8V would be as good as my 8P which had a sub as standard!

Anyway, I looked in the tailgate and wing area to see if any sub wiring was there, but can't see any.

I removed the Navigation / SD card unit from the glovebox and found there were no wires for the subwoofer output or the centre speaker output BUT the pins were there. I also put a small speaker across the pins but there was no output.

I am hoping that this head unit is used in both standard and *** config, but coding just enables the output.

I have access to another A3 8V which has B&O. That sub is too big for my spare wheel, and strangely has five wires going into it. 100w + 100w aswell. Maybe it has an internal amp or just two coils?!

 

[veeeight]

Here:
http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/thread...to-standard-sound-system.227291/#post-2266567

 

[Schizophonic]

Interesting thread. I know I want to do something to my sound system in the future. I know an instagram user Wardog who's put in a sub and works.

 

[rajeevx5]

I bought a sub from eBay Germany, just waiting for delivery to the UK. I think to get those pins to work all you have to do is code.
I found that the long coding for the 5F unit with audi sound system is is : 01730000FF0A000021220001001A00002F0001440100010002
This is slightly different to the standard sound system. Maybe changing your long coding to something similar to the above may work? Thats what im planning to do. If that does not work, ill buy a High level amp (100/200W) which taps into the factory speaker wiring and amplifies it for the subwoofer.

 

[Schizophonic]

do document your findings. be interesting what happens.

 

[Utini]

I would be interested in what you find please. Worst case scenario I will be doing the same as you, tapping off the high level speaker outputs and putting my own small amp in the near side rear wing area, behind the luggage accessory socket.
Some small mono amps could take power from that socket supply which is fused at 20amps. A small amp driving the stock 40w sub wouldn't be that demanding and would save running a supply to the battery. Plus you can set that supply to permanent or ignition by moving the fuse position in the fuse box.

I got a price from my dealer today...
8V0035382 (Audi Sound System Sub) £86.50

 

[rajeevx5]

I would be careful about putting an amp in the trim behind the near side rear wing area, because that area contains a lot of sound deadening material which is a fire hazard if your amp gets really hot. Other than that that does sound like a good idea taking the power from that socket. The only issue i have is that i dont really want to cut into the factory wiring but will have to in the worst case scenario using a t tap connector. Look on eBay germany subs are going for dirt cheap, i bought mine brand new unused for 35eur with 20eur shipping, you may have to ask the seller first to ask to send to the UK.
I will test the coding out tomorrow and will definitely let you know my findings
Do you know if the *** sub will fit into the spare wheel we have?

 

[Utini]

I would be careful about putting an amp in the trim behind the near side rear wing area, because that area contains a lot of sound deadening material which is a fire hazard if your amp gets really hot. Other than that that does sound like a good idea taking the power from that socket. The only issue i have is that i dont really want to cut into the factory wiring but will have to in the worst case scenario using a t tap connector. Look on eBay germany subs are going for dirt cheap, i bought mine brand new unused for 35eur with 20eur shipping, you may have to ask the seller first to ask to send to the UK.
I will test the coding out tomorrow and will definitely let you know my findings
Do you know if the *** sub will fit into the spare wheel we have?

I don't know if the *** sub will fit, I will get some measurements. I do know that a B&O sub from a 2012 8V spare won't fit in my 2015!

When you get your sub, can you let me know how many wires connect to it. I assume two.
I was surprised to find five on the B&O.
I will take your advice and get a new one from Flea bay if the price is right!

If the coding works, will that enable a subwoofer level control on the MMI? Hopefully somebody who has the *** can comment if this option is there

 

[rajeevx5]

I believe it is two wires not sure but will defo confirm that for you. I hope so, i will try out that coding tomorrow on my car. It would be helpful for someone with vcds and *** to post their long coding. just search 8v subwoofer ebay or 8v speakers ebay in google as they may not appear on uk ebay

 

[mjcourtney]

I don't know if the *** sub will fit, I will get some measurements. I do know that a B&O sub from a 2012 8V spare won't fit in my 2015!

The sub's for the *** and B&O are identical sizes. In fact, I'm pretty sure they're the exact same sub, just one casing says 'premium sound' and the other says 'B&O'. They both mount in to the spare wheel well.

 

[Utini]

The sub's for the *** and B&O are identical sizes. In fact, I'm pretty sure they're the exact same sub, just one casing says 'premium sound' and the other says 'B&O'. They both mount in to the spare wheel well.

Our other company car is a 2012 8V 3 Door S Line with B&O 100w + 100w sub in the spare wheel.
I removed it and it wouldn't fit in my 2015 Sportback S Line, it was too big. So it must of been different sized spare wheels.

Maybe the early 8V B&O were different, and I'm pretty sure you are correct in saying both subs are now the same. I will dig around for info to confirm this.

 

[rajeevx5]

I found no way to activate those pins. I bought a quadlock extension cable with a lead for a parrot system and will take the speaker outputs off that. Then im planning to buy a small BOSS 200w amp which should do the trick in powering the sub.

 

[rajeevx5]

Ive succesfully fitted the subwoofer and amp. The bass is amazing all i need is a low pass filter on that channel.

 

[Schizophonic]

Ive succesfully fitted the subwoofer and amp. The bass is amazing all i need is a low pass filter on that channel.

what did you end up doing? got any pictures of the install?

 

[rajeevx5]

i ended up tapping into the rear channels from the rear of the headunit. I bought a suitable quadlock extension cable first so i dont have to cut into factory wiring. then wired it to the back under trim panels, to the amp and then the sub. i will post photos tomorrow

 

[C2 DTN]

@rajeevx5 did you use an audi sub with an aftermarket amp. if so was it the *** or the B&O version ??

 

[rajeevx5]

I used it with the *** subwoofer, I also upgraded my mmi system to the technology pack system. I've found that you can code *** into the headunit which activates the subwoofer pin on the back of the system

 

[C2 DTN]

how much was the mmi upgrade ?

 

[rajeevx5]

It cost me around £500, found a bargain on eBay coded it with vcds then another £60 at audi specialist to remove the component protection. The navigation maps lock up though as a separate activation code has to be bought

 

[C2 DTN]

why did you upgrade that, was the seperate amp not pleasing you. was it just 2 wires on the sub ?

 

[rajeevx5]

The seperate amp is brilliant, what wasn't pleasing me is the low resolution screen of the mmi and its limited functions. It is just two wires on the sub yes. ive also connected the front speakers to the amp and am very pleased with it. I've also noticed that the technology packs sound was a little more clearer

 

[C2 DTN]

dont suppose you know why the *** sub is rated as 40w and the b&o is 100w+100w. Is there more wires connecting the b&o as i have been offered one for a good price

 

[rajeevx5]

For the b&o there are 4 wires I believe as it is a twin coil subwoofer. But you could just power a single coil if you wish. I find the 40w sub very powerful for what it is

 

[C2 DTN]

could they not be bridged to power both

The *** and B&O sub seem to share the same part number

 

[Utini]

I used it with the *** subwoofer, I also upgraded my mmi system to the technology pack system. I've found that you can code *** into the headunit which activates the subwoofer pin on the back of the system

I have purchased the *** 40w sub and would rather use the head unit subwoofer pin output. Can you give me more info on how to activate *** in the coding please?

I have never used coding, so any pointers on what system to use etc would be great.

 

[rajeevx5]

Do you have a vag come/ vcds cable? If you do send me your long coding of your mmi unit and i will send you the according code

 

[Minion Bob!]

Don't know much about the which subs etc. But thought I'd add to the point on the comments about it not fitting as I noticed no one had posted it... So just in case a few don't know. The spare wheel is changed to a space saving variant if you have either if the sound options in order for the sub to fit and that might be why your finding it doesn't fit.

 

[C2 DTN]

@rajeevx5 Can you confirm the polarity of the *** sub ( as in which pin is + and - )

 

[rajeevx5]

The left pin is the positive pin and right pin negative

 

[C2 DTN]

Cheers

 

[C2 DTN]

@rajeevx5 - Did you use high level inputs from the speakers, or fit a High to Low level converter then use an RCA cable.

Ive gone the route of the High to low Converter, but its still tripping the amp as the voltage is too high. Im scratching my head wondering how !!

 

[rajeevx5]

@rajeevx5 - Did you use high level inputs from the speakers, or fit a High to Low level converter then use an RCA cable.

Ive gone the route of the High to low Converter, but its still tripping the amp as the voltage is too high. Im scratching my head wondering how !!

I have a JBL amplifier with hi level inputs, which works fine for me. If you have vcds could you scan the 5f unit plugged in to the converter and amp for faults and post them here . I think what is happening is that your high low converter is placing too much of a resistance on your headunit and causing problems.

 

[C2 DTN]

It wasnt tripping the car amp, it was tripping my JBL amp.

I have now rewired it to use the high level inputs and all is good.

All i can think is ive got a faulty High to Low converter, or it wasnt taking the voltage down far enough for the JBL amp.

 

[rajeevx5]

What system do you have ? Mmi technology pack or the standard mmi, the standard
Mmi will keep testing the speakers as it thinks there is an open circuit and you will
Hear a thud, however when I installed mmi high this thud went

 

[C2 DTN]

its the standard MMI. after seeing it in another car, if i could wind back i would probably Spec B&O + tech pack

 

[Utini]

Do you have a vag come/ vcds cable? If you do send me your long coding of your mmi unit and i will send you the according code

I have no vag com / vcds cable. Is this something worth buying, if so, what do you recommend please

 

[rajeevx5]

I have no vag com / vcds cable. Is this something worth buying, if so, what do you recommend please

if you do want to activate the subwoofer pins, this can be done by coding. For this you would need vcds or someone who has vcds. VCDS HEX CAN cables go for around £270 and are compatible with most cars or a Micro Can cable which are compatible with vehicles based on Golf technology which the 8v is

 

[Bobwas4]

hello rajeevx5 I'm very interested in doing this, quick questions, are you still running standard passive door speakers? and *** sub? as all i want to do is enable the sub pins and add the *** sub. was the coding difficult? also i have the mmi plus (TECH PACK) does the *** sub need its own power supply? sorry about 20 questions, i ordered the car thinking the sound system would be on par with that of the golf mk7 and it is poor compared.

 

[rajeevx5]

Yes correct still running the same passive door speakers and *** sub. The coding is very easy, do you have vcds? The *** sub does not need its own power supply and can be directly connected to the unit. If you do have vcds go into the long coding of 5F Infotainment, and change byte 4/5 from FF00 to FF0A. Then cycle your ignition and check for faults on the infotainment module. IF you get an error saying subwoofer open circuit and centre speaker open circuit you know that those pins are now live.

 

[Bobwas4]

ok thanks a lot man. yeh i have vcds, I'm not interested in the centre dash speaker. just a little more bass for the songs that haven't got much bass, as i listen to a wide variety, dubstep sounds not to bad on the passive setup but something like dire straits. sound terrible. thanks so much again man. ps is your 1.4 engine cylinder in demand?