20140720_211607.jpg

looks like your pistons are happy to see you again
 
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Phew!... what a day... first things first... BIG thanks to Bill for his patience and the use of a ramp all week (even though I have only been there in the evenings and weekend)...

Started the day with getting the engine set at TDC to see how far I am out on the cambelt.... set the bottom end using the dial gauge...
IMAG0018.jpg


...and checking the flywheel...
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...all good there... checked the cam pulley....
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...hummmm... usually its really obvious when a tooth out but this looked almost right which is most likely why I didn't pick it up when fitting... so decided to check the crank pulley...
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Ah!!.... this can only mean one thing :(

So to confirm we knocked up a crank pulley holdy tool... Bill turned down an old crank pulley which (shock actual horror) was made from cheese rather than metal...
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A bit of box section and a hole cutter...
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A bit of MIG'age later and bingo...
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...which then made removing the crank bolt a doddle...
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Removed the pulley and sure enough, just as I suspected....
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The sudden loading of the engine from the gearchange incident had sheared the dowels and allowed the crank pulley to rotate back... the thing is made from cheese and is soft as sh*te... disappointing...

As luck would have it Bill has an Integrated Engineering billet (actual steel) crank pulley and ARP crank bolt...
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ARP is a special to IE apparently but meh... its manly++
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...then another 'issue' presented itself...
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Square peg, round hole springs to mind!!... IE state its an interference fit and needs pressing on... not sure how practical this is realistically as the front crank seal may have something to say about that!!... so after a little creative fettling the pulley finally fitted without having to whack it with Thors hammer...
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Settled it in with a couple of goes with the gun then backed off and torqued to 78ftlbs (as I used loctite) and prepared for the last part of the torque sequence, a 1/4 turn!... doesn't sound much but ARP bolts aren't really stretchy... so using the crank pulley holdy tool I used this to get the 1/4 turn in...
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Its a 3/4" bar with adaptor to 1/2" for the socket as it an imperial size which Bill only has in 1/2"... for perspective the smaller ratchet is a normal sized 1/2" one ;P

TDC'd everything up and checked the timing marks on the damper
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YESSSSSSSSSSS!!!... get in!!... started the engine, cleared the codes... let her warm up then switched off... started her up again and checked codes... nowt, nada, feck all!!!...

Happy++ :D

<tuffty/>
 
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Oh thank god for that PT!

Can't believe it was THAT far out! That's shocking!

Did you fit new dowls in the new crank pulley too?

Did the old sheered ones come out easily enough?

Hope it's all plain sailling from here for you! You deserve a bit of luck!
 
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Oh thank god for that PT!

Can't believe it was THAT far out! That's shocking!

Did you fit new dowls in the new crank pulley too?

Did the old sheered ones come out easily enough?

Hope it's all plain sailling from here for you! You deserve a bit of luck!

I didn't replace the dowels as the billet pulley and ARP bolt should mostly negate the need... I left the old ones in and dressed them to make the nose of the crank flat

Hopefully all will be good... should find out soon enough as I am just off to go and get her from the workshop :)

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:

That a hairline fracture I see near the lower dowel? Either way well done on spotting that mate, could well have ended up rebuilding it again.
 
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That a hairline fracture I see near the lower dowel? Either way well done on spotting that mate, could well have ended up rebuilding it again.

am i the only one who thinks that he would secretly enjoy that?!
 
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As good as ever!

IE do make some very nice stuff.
 
I meant is it all back together and back on the road?

Aha!... yeah... back home now... drove her back Sunday night.... not pushed her yet, need to let things settle as I have an oil leak somewhere (suspect the cam cover gasket) and the exhaust touches somewhere so will sort all that out...

Won't be the last update before AITP though as I have new pads and rotors to fit to the front brakes and I may have to repaint the inlet as tbh it looks fecking awful

<tuffty/>
 
Paul, I am impressed with your mental agility to built your project.
 
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Forgive me, it's probably been brought up already in this thread but it would be a mission to find it. What did your car make on the dyno? And from what I understand it is on a run in tune?
 
Forgive me, it's probably been brought up already in this thread but it would be a mission to find it. What did your car make on the dyno? And from what I understand it is on a run in tune?

Not been fully mapped yet so don't know... it made 300hp at 7k rpm with 11psi of boost while running in though :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Not been fully mapped yet so don't know... it made 300hp at 7k rpm with 11psi of boost while running in though :)

<tuffty/>

If you had to have an educated guess what do you think it will make? It must be so exciting waiting for it to be fully mapped.
What boost will it run? and how long do you have to wait.
 
If you had to have an educated guess what do you think it will make? It must be so exciting waiting for it to be fully mapped.
What boost will it run? and how long do you have to wait.

I am hoping for somewhere in the region of 500-550hp and late 300's ftlbs torque... not sure on boost... 28psi maybe 30psi... will see what she does...

<tuffty/>
 
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I am hoping for somewhere in the region of 500-550hp and late 300's ftlbs torque... not sure on boost... 28psi maybe 30psi... will see what she does...

<tuffty/>


We have a saying at our workshop,
LIFE BEGINS AT 2 BAR :)

just saying.
 
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Small update... new brakes have arrived :)

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... now some 'meh' news... after driving her home last weekend the engine bay was a little smokey which I expected a little from stuff burning off but thought it would be over with by now... turns out the cam cover gasket was leaking... this was brand new from GSF for the engine build... so this weekend I took the cover off and resealed it just in case... got home and... more smoke :(
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****!!... so have now ordered an OE replacement and will do the the VVT tensioner again too...have ordered some new bolts for that after the previous snapped bolt incident I decided to retire them..

Have also ordered some genuine aero blades to replace the cheap ones I have currently as they make a horrible 'cracking' noise in operation, have also ordered a replacement cup holder as mines busted and a replacement ESP switch as mines a little worn... to prevent me wearing out the new switch I have finally coded out the ESP... I plan to use the old ESP switch as the basis for a map switching 'switch'... it appears to be a momentary push to make switch which is ideal...

I even managed to DA over the bonnet and wings making a start on the detail she so needs...

The 'to-do' list never seems to end though and I am not going to be rushing anything now... inlet and cam cover was rushed and they looked sh*te... this probably means I won't have her sorted out before AITP...

<tuffty/>
 
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J hooks, nice! I want to get them for mine when the time comes but I know ECS won't have used the standard pattern. We shall see...

Shame about the leaks, I guess it's the nature of these builds. They don't always go smooth.
 
Tell me more about coding out the ESP. I'm bored of switching mine off every time I get in the car

Fellow ASN'r Leigh pointing me in the direction of this thread..
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/171698-mk20-abs-controller-soft-coding.html

...and another on vortex... I did have the info before but misplaced it...

You need to go into the coding section of the ABS module... in my case my soft coding was 18448... I took 2048 away from this to get 16400 as the new code...

Pressing the ESP button now does nothing more than momentarily flashes the ESP light...

I'd have a proper read through though as there are several links in that thread that worth researching..

It should be the same coding for an LCR but not sure if having a haldex makes a difference to the original soft coding...

The number itself represents a binary bitmask so each bit in its binary equivalent represents a feature to turn on or off... used to use a similar method to handle website permissions back in the days when I did web dev...

This only disables ESP from what I can see... there are other options to disable the other features EDS (electronic diff lock) and ASR (traction control) but not sure as yet to what extent these have an effect on the car as wheelspin is not something I really suffer from...

I believe further re-coding is required just to reduce the ABS controller to a basic ABS unit

<tuffty/
 
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Fellow ASN'r Leigh pointing me in the direction of this thread..
http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/a3-s3-forum-8l-chassis/171698-mk20-abs-controller-soft-coding.html

...and another on vortex... I did have the info before but misplaced it...

You need to go into the coding section of the ABS module... in my case my soft coding was 18448... I took 2048 away from this to get 16400 as the new code...

Pressing the ESP button now does nothing more than momentarily flashes the ESP light...

I'd have a proper read through though as there are several links in that thread that worth researching..

It should be the same coding for an LCR but not sure if having a haldex makes a difference to the original soft coding...

The number itself represents a binary bitmask so each bit in its binary equivalent represents a feature to turn on or off... used to use a similar method to handle website permissions back in the days when I did web dev...

This only disables ESP from what I can see... there are other options to disable the other features EDS (electronic diff lock) and ASR (traction control) but not sure as yet to what extent these have an effect on the car as wheelspin is not something I really suffer from...

I believe further re-coding is required just to reduce the ABS controller to a basic ABS unit

<tuffty/

I have been looking for something like this for a while, but all previous attempts at entering codes have not worked (2001 Seat leon cupra) with LCR quick rack.

Will the codes in that thread be applicable to my model also, or is it AWD only?
 
I have been looking for something like this for a while, but all previous attempts at entering codes have not worked (2001 Seat leon cupra) with LCR quick rack.

Will the codes in that thread be applicable to my model also, or is it AWD only?

Not entirely sure tbh... if you have VCDS have a butchers at the current ABS soft coding... if the value is the same then I would say yes... I would need to look into it a little deeper but I believe the value required for disabling ESP is 2048 regardless on ESP enabled MK20 controllers...

<tuffty/>
 
Not entirely sure tbh... if you have VCDS have a butchers at the current ABS soft coding... if the value is the same then I would say yes... I would need to look into it a little deeper but I believe the value required for disabling ESP is 2048 regardless on ESP enabled MK20 controllers...

<tuffty/>

ok thanks

the link you entitled was ABS soft coding. While looking at that thread it seemed to focus more on disabling the ESP, but if the ESP is disabled, does this "soften" the ABS at all, because as I understand it, ESP and ABS are linked, and disabling the ESP makes the ABS less likely to kick in as much as when the ESP is on?
 
ok thanks

the link you entitled was ABS soft coding. While looking at that thread it seemed to focus more on disabling the ESP, but if the ESP is disabled, does this "soften" the ABS at all, because as I understand it, ESP and ABS are linked, and disabling the ESP makes the ABS less likely to kick in as much as when the ESP is on?

I don't believe it affects ABS at all under normal ABS operation... ESP does use the ABS unit to help stabilise the car but it also controls power (via load)

ESP®

<tuffty/>
 
I'm quite happy with how my ABS works, but the ESP and diff fight against each other so the ESP needs constantly switched off. And an orange light on the dash is annoying.

I'll have a play about with VCDS later and see what happens, but since I have no turbo at the moment, testing it is an issue :lol:
 
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are these the OE numbers for the cambelt tensioner? nicked off vortex post

Here are the part#'s for the non-hydraulic parts
06A109181 and 06A109243A

The application is 2001-2005 EA1113 Longitudinal 1.8T found in Audi A4 and VW Passat (AWM motors)

An example on zee bay here>
ContiTech Zahnriemensatz Vw Audi 1,8T 2,0 ALT AEB AVJ AWT BFB BEX CFMA | eBay

ContiTech Zahnriemensatz Vw Audi 1,8T 2,0 ALT AEB AVJ AWT BFB BEX CFMA

A few engine codes covered here
New Stud required on top of this also I believe Tuffty?
 
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I'm quite happy with how my ABS works, but the ESP and diff fight against each other so the ESP needs constantly switched off. And an orange light on the dash is annoying.

I'll have a play about with VCDS later and see what happens, but since I have no turbo at the moment, testing it is an issue :lol:

This is exactly what I found after I'd had a Quaife diff fitted to mine.

If the TC is left engaged,the two will fight each other,especially on wet roads,and monumental understeer is the usual result.
 
Day off from work and shock horror!!! working on the car again! :)

One day I will actually take time off and not be working on the car... although cleaning and detailing is not classified as working on the car so thats still allowed :D

Cam cover off again... did the VVT tensioner gasket too without taking cams out... trickier but doable..
IMAG0083.jpg


All back together, warmed up and no signs of a leak... phew!!!
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Next job was to fit the new rotors and DS2500's... my old rotors are actually from Bill's Ibiza and were pretty tired to be fair...
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Cleaned up the bells and used new bolts as the last lot had been used twice now (not recommended)...
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Had to shave a little off the edges of the pad backing plate to get them to slide nicely but all went back together...
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...unfortunately there is a little rubbing somewhere when turning right (of all things!)... I think the new rotors are just catching the caliper somewhere so will look at that tomorrow :(

New ESP switch and cup holder turned up
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Now have a working cup holder woohoo!... (I had hot glued the old one shut as it wouldn't lock...)
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Old ESP switch...
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New ESP switch...
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...now I can hear you asking... why change the ESP switch when I have just disabled it.... good question and if I need to answer that then you obviously don't know me very well LOL

...this of course leaves me with a spare switch to use as a map switcher... plan is to mod a switch blank to fit on the switch in place of the ESP cover and fit it next to the ESP switch... OE and stealth :)
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Happy days (apart from the brake rubbing of course)... on the way home I dropped in to my mates and got the aircon re-gassed... this thankfully went without a hitch and now its nice and cool in the car

Other things that have happened this week... ordered a pair of R32 ARBs... have gone for the normal 23mm F and 19mm R... I know there will be discussions about this choice knowing JoJo had gone for the 21mm front but tbh I am not really that bothered and will give this a go... if it doesn't handle in a way I feel safe to drive her then I'll re-think but I have driven an R32 ARB'd S3 and liked it so meh...

I have also ordered a bunch of super-pro bushes to sort the rest of the suspension out... caster increase bushes for the front arms, ARB bushes, steering rack bush and I already have the bushes for the rear arms...

<tuffty/>
 
Had a quick look under the car tonight... found the rubbing...
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Out with the power tools tomorrow then :)

<tuffty/>
 
TPS dropped off a couple of items this morning :)
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Found the issue with the brakes... the rotors are a little wider than my previous ones and this set them slightly off centre to the caliper...

Inboard side...
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Outboard side...
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So got some stainless washers...
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...and spaced the caliper bracket back inboard more which centred the caliper to the rotor...
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All sorted :)

While I was doing this Bill was detailing the Badgerwagon... (apparently I am a bad influence!)
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That done I cracked on with modding the button... out came the dremel :)
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However.... bit of a gap... ******...
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The cover needs to sit over a bit on the switch...
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...sooooo... filed a bit out of the cover so it would sit on the switch in the right position...
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Fits better...
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Will hot glue the cover on once I have sorted the wiring from the switch..

Seeing as Bill was busy detailing the Badgerwagon I just had to give the S3 a wipe over (he is such a bad influence!! LOL)
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Sadly despite the car nearly being ready I won't be at AITP tomorrow... hope the rain holds off for everyone but the plan is to have her ready for ADI which of course was the original plan when I first started my BT build LOL

<tuffty/>
 
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Very impressed with the underbonnet work....so neat and clean.
 
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