Audi A3 8P 06 Installing a Subwoofer Using Standard Concert II

Anyone? Confused.com... You mentioned a high to low convertor but I don't see it in your install.
What I got so far
Positive to amp
Ground to chassis
Remote stick blue cable from OEM amp

"Then i crimped the right and left to the yellow and green cables which came out of the little amp behind the sub. I ran the cable through the port as you suggested Sidhu88.''

I don't get this, I thought the converter was needed to turn the speaker wires to RCA? Which would then go to the amp? Also where would you power the high and low converter?

All i did was take the 12v turning ON cable. and LEFT RIGHT and the shared negative for speakers.
And ran it right to the amp's 12v and RCA's and works perfect!

Both the internal amp and my 2x10's work at same time, and when i disconnect my external theres no extra wiring to rewire the internal to work again!

 
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So no converter is required? The 12v cable is that the one shown in picture 5 In the install guide? What is the left and right? Joined the negatives for the speakers but what did you do with the positives?
 
So no converter is required? The 12v cable is that the one shown in picture 5 In the install guide? What is the left and right? Joined the negatives for the speakers but what did you do with the positives?

Positives are wired to an RCA lead, the one with the red and white. i just chopped off one side then wired into the elctric block.
 
Thanks mate, this is too confusing, I wish I could understand it. Is your set up the same as Ch4ndler? Also the wiring kit, is a 8 gauge big enough?
 
sorry for rasing the dead, i have the non bose system, where in gods name do i connect the remote wire to, this is the only bit im stuck on, also im installing the rns-e this week, is there no converter that gives you rca outs without cutting wires etc? i mean surely someone has made and iso to iso with exta rca cables coming out of it?
 
It is, I only really listen to dnb so a punchy sub is all I need.

New front speakers next.

how did u get the power cable from bonnet to the inside of the car. Can you please show me with pictures. cheers.
 
If you lift or remove the panel that's covering the Strut nuts, these a rubber grommet on the passenger side. Cut it and slip the wire though, you will need to remove the glove box to pull the wire though. There is a guide some where with pics if you search.
 
If you lift or remove the panel that's covering the Strut nuts, these a rubber grommet on the passenger side. Cut it and slip the wire though, you will need to remove the glove box to pull the wire though. There is a guide some where with pics if you search.
What ever you do, DO NOT TURN THE IGNITION ON when the glove box is disconnected it turns on the air bag warning light on your dash, rookie mistake I made
 
Sorry for rising the convo back up but having a little power I got all my cables in and wired but I cart seem to get the amp powered I don't think the remote works from the thin white cable on the non-Bose connector block? Is there any way these I can get a remote from I did think of the cig lighter but is there anywhere that's abit easier to get too? And what is the purple cable for ? I have seen it been called 'screen' what do I use that for?
 
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You can nick remove from the fuse board to the right of the steering wheel (when the door is open the panel will come off)...you'll need to run your own remote cable, it's basically an ignition feed.
 
You can nick remove from the fuse board to the right of the steering wheel (when the door is open the panel will come off)...you'll need to run your own remote cable, it's basically an ignition feed.
How do I do that I mean connecting it at the fuse box side?
 
I'll gona try a small electrical crimp I think got the cable in just got to wire both ends cheers for the help :)
 
I can get you a pic of it later mate depending how I feel not too well at the moment.

PM me your email address plz
 
Sorry. Another pleb adding to an old thread. All the information is great. I'm adding an external sub with amp.

The only question is can I connect the remote from my sub straight to the original sub remote wire. And just leave the original sub disconnected?

Everything is set up is just I don't want permanent power on or only being able to switch it off by unplugging the amp


Thanks.
 
Yes you can do that, that's what I did. But I had to change it after a while. My RNSE not sure if all of them do it, wakes up every 15 mins or so randomly for about 30 secs and shut off, the screen doesn't come on but you can hear it running, I've been told it's doing some checks or something, meaning my amp would come on as well. It's better to run your own remote. It's just as easy.
 
Thank you. So would I get major battery drain? Or is it just annoying hearing the pop as it turns on?

How did you wire your own remote?
I'm dieting an old sub in. It's a fusion with built in amp.

I have an aftermarket sony stereo. Which has constant power. (I have to hold the off button to stop it staying on after keys are removed)

And I can hear the original sub pop when I switch the stereo on.
So I don't think wiring the original remote to my new sub would have that problem. As there will be no power going through at all when the stereo is switched off.

Hope that all makes sense. Thanks again for the info
 
Thank you. So would I get major battery drain? Or is it just annoying hearing the pop as it turns on?

How did you wire your own remote?
I'm dieting an old sub in. It's a fusion with built in amp.

I have an aftermarket sony stereo. Which has constant power. (I have to hold the off button to stop it staying on after keys are removed)

And I can hear the original sub pop when I switch the stereo on.
So I don't think wiring the original remote to my new sub would have that problem. As there will be no power going through at all when the stereo is switched off.

Hope that all makes sense. Thanks again for the info

Your remote should be an ignition feed so that the amp only comes on with ignition.

As correctly pointed out, these cars wake up at intervals to check stuff so your amp will forever be turning on and off.

Same with the head unit it takes constant power but should have another feed to act as a switch?
 
Hi. A couple of problems. Is there an easy way to solve the first pic. The wire is broken so I have had to use a block connector and just poke the wire in the hole and use tape to secure it.
And the second. Is it safe: 3 wires connected to 2 via bullet connectors. It is all ignition wire? Thanks again
 

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All i did was take the 12v turning ON cable. and LEFT RIGHT and the shared negative for speakers.
And ran it right to the amp's 12v and RCA's and works perfect!

Both the internal amp and my 2x10's work at same time, and when i disconnect my external theres no extra wiring to rewire the internal to work again!

which cables did you splice into for the RCA?

White is for the remote.. which colours are for the speakers?
 
OK - my sportback is standard non-bose and the bass sound quality (and ooomph) seems fine. No distortion or ancilliary vibration at all with plenty of boom !
Just ordered a replacement subwoofer with amp built in.£20.i guess no one wants them. ive never had rear speakers and sub working so don't know how bad or good it sounds.have tested rear speakers with as battery and definitely popping.replaced the concert radio as it also had fault.ie no lights and stopped working altogether so hoped that would fix the rears but didn't so I'm guessing it's the amp.at least the radio lights up and works well..