Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

[StaceyS3]

Yeah, I don't think I can risk having to get it all apart again. Going to get the both forks I think (they don't do a 5-6). Wish I had the space/tools at home to do this sort of stuff myself...

I came very close to buying them before but now financial commitments have massively changed, I will now be just welding some bolts in there in place of the rivets

The garage/workshop is coming along now, ideally would really like a lathe/mill combo the would well and truely set

 

[StaceyS3]

Lubes all arrived



This will be the run in oil went for in the end as got it cheap with a discount code



Flywheel back from being skimmed and balanced



Material that was removed to balance



Crank after polishing



Also as the weather is lovely I gave the engine bay a quick jet wash which although still looks filthy is a vast improvement




Hoping that now got the crank back can crack on with plastigauging the bottom end and start assembling

Hopefully more exciting stuff to update next time

 

[Sam_]

Have you managed to sort out your turbo yet? I got a quote from Owens for their Mspec HTA3582 of.....$3,200! Obviously didn't bother and subsequently have found an FP HTA3582 for $1,200 new. Just need to get a Tial .82 housing for it.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Have you managed to sort out your turbo yet? I got a quote from Owens for their Mspec HTA3582 of.....$3,200! Obviously didn't bother and subsequently have found an FP HTA3582 for $1,200 new. Just need to get a Tial .82 housing for it.

Did you think that was a lot for a Mspec? mine was a little less as I'm in the uk

 

[StaceyS3]

Have you managed to sort out your turbo yet? I got a quote from Owens for their Mspec HTA3582 of.....$3,200! Obviously didn't bother and subsequently have found an FP HTA3582 for $1,200 new. Just need to get a Tial .82 housing for it.

No mines not been checked out yet so could even have a bent shaft worst case senario, but if that is the case the comp wheel and housing look god apart from the little Knicks on the tips

I did get mine for an absolute steel though at $500 with only a seasons use so was worth the risk

 

[Sam_]

No mines not been checked out yet so could even have a bent shaft worst case senario, but if that is the case the comp wheel and housing look god apart from the little Knicks on the tips

I did get mine for an absolute steel though at $500 with only a seasons use so was worth the risk

Yeah that was a really good deal you got. Are you going for an .82 housing? I notice FP don't recommend anything smaller for the HTA3582.

Did you think that was a lot for a Mspec? mine was a little less as I'm in the uk

Well technically you'd pay a little more (I don't pay VAT). I just can't see how they can justify an extra $1,000 over say an FP "Black" HTA3582. I guess it's all the "bling" parts they add. The metal bearing cage is nice but come on...

 

[Sam_]

Stacey, if you get the IE CVA2 cams, we'll have near identical specs. I think you should do it so you can sell me your base map

 

[StaceyS3]

Yeah that was a really good deal you got. Are you going for an .82 housing? I notice FP don't recommend anything smaller for the HTA3582.



Well technically you'd pay a little more (I don't pay VAT). I just can't see how they can justify an extra $1,000 over say an FP "Black" HTA3582. I guess it's all the "bling" parts they add. The metal bearing cage is nice but come on...

Have got a .82 v-banded housing on its way from snail turbo, they seem like good quality castings but will wait and see when it's here my second option was al's .72ar housing machined for the 35r turbine

$1000 does sound like a heavy price tag for the extras....the only one I'd be interested in paying for is the bearing upgrade, the others are very nice and will possibly help the performance a little but wouldn't personally pay for them nowadays

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Owen has developed there own compressor wheels i was told?

I'm not bothered as i wanted the best i could get. only thing is i wish i went bigger as more people are going GT35 now, Should of gone for there GT38:weight_lift2:

 

[StaceyS3]

Owen has developed there own compressor wheels i was told?

I'm not bothered as i wanted the best i could get. only thing is i wish i went bigger as more people are going GT35 now, Should of gone for there GT38:weight_lift2:

Don't get me wrong it's a lovely but of kit and a year or two ago would have definately paid for it but now am tightening the belt a little due to house and kids

Could always sell yours to Sam

 

[Sam_]

Owen has developed there own compressor wheels i was told?

I'm not bothered as i wanted the best i could get. only thing is i wish i went bigger as more people are going GT35 now, Should of gone for there GT38:weight_lift2:

Possibly. I thought they just used HTA wheels though? Maybe they're custom though.

Fair play. I'm sure it'll be awesome. Haha a 38 would be insane. The HT3582 is rated up to 680hp (I know I know, doesn't mean much) already! A GTX3582 might be more.

Don't get me wrong it's a lovely but of kit and a year or two ago would have definately paid for it but now am tightening the belt a little due to house and kids

Could always sell yours to Sam

Hah well I got a HTA3582 sorted already and my mrs would kill me if I spent more. Just need to buy a Tial housing. Think I'm going to go .82.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

OD rate there GT HTA3582r at 740hp

 

[Sam_]

I guess it depends on many different factors... Anyhow, 740 is mad

 

[StaceyS3]

****** hell Sam you haven't hung about

The 3 of us have all had pretty simular turbo choices and specs, including going from garret GTX's to HTA ,35's

Sorry Sam but my base file may be of use but cam wise am going for the CVA1's

 

[Sam_]

Well yeah worth doing it right Good decision on the cams. By all accounts I've heard the positives outweigh the negatives with the 1s. I wish I'd gone for them now but alas, too late. About a 30-40hp peak difference and looking at the graphs not much losses elsewhere (2 vs 1).

 

[StaceyS3]

Hopefully the CVA1's won't be to unbareable, but at least the car is definately my Sunday toy as such now as the mrs isn't even insured on it anymore and shes made it clear doesn't want me carting children round in there! So I only see the need for 2 seats now

Got some time in the garage today and started carrying out some checks and work on the bottom end, some planned and some prompted by Graham from SCN

Started by taking off any burs or sharp edges inside the block



Then checked the crank wasn't bent with a DTI



The biggest variance I got was just under 1 thou





Not sure if that is acceptable or not?

The plastigauging brought up these results



Will have to check these to the desired tolerances

Got pulled off by the mrs and littlen before I could finish, but no 4 with the extra top oil grooved bearing was thowing up funny measurements due to the groove.
I'm going borrow a bearing from another cap just to check?



Hopefully will be able to crack on and check the big ends soon

 

[StaceyS3]

Managed to finish off plastigauging the crank today in a bit of a rush to make a decision on weather a regrind is needed before i go away at the weekend

Measured the big end journals around the 10 and 2 mark to get both directions across the journal



Heres all the recorded values that i got, they seem on the larger side and from what i have read some are just out of tolerance but have read conflicting figures across the web





From the figures i have the journals are all within tolerance when Mic'd but the clearances are large and questionable if they're a pass.....what would you do?

Specs i have is

Mains 54.00mm Big ends 47.80mm Tolerance for both -0.022 to -0.042 mm
Which would make mine just in spec on a couple

The clearances that i've got are 0.01-0.04mm which would put a few of mine out that were 0.045 and some leaning towards 0.05mm

On another note.....i'm gonna be a Dad again

 

[StaceyS3]

Can anyone throw there 2c in on the crank sizes/tolerances?
May chuck it in for a regrind today before I go away for a couple of weeks so is done for when I return to allow me to crack on if other people feel that it's a bit to loose?

Could this create the low oil pressure I saw?

 

[StaceyS3]

Very little happening here lots of lifting weights with both arms (daughter in left and beer in right) lol



Have been getting mixed feedback on vortex with regards to clearances etc with some saying perfectly normal and others saying regrind is needed?

Must be some opinions on here that people can throw in? Last thing I want to do is put it all together and have more big issues

 

[StaceyS3]

Bit of an update

Recieved my turbine housing to which am pretty impressed with the quality, its not perfect but the company "Snail turbo" are being very helpful and talking about sorting it







I also aquired some new wheels after gradually selling all of mine, not the best of wheels but got them for well under half of the price they paid for them a month ago with one now kurbed



Kurb mark



Big thanks to Andrew (user Andrew@A.L.D) for doing a wicked job on the head again

Never seen a head so clean it looks like its brand new, with the service and help from this man cant really thank him enough











Last but not least I spent a little bit of time cleaning up theb blades on the comp wheel as had some damage from dust etc where previous owner knocked the filter off on a run



Hoping to have a good half day in the garage monday and cannot wait

 

[Sam_]

Looks like a pretty good casting. Is it an .82 or .63? It looks like a Tial part number? They're basically a reverse of the turbine + AR size so 2803 would suggest its for a GT30 in .82.

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

glad you like it bud

 

[StaceyS3]

Looks like a pretty good casting. Is it an .82 or .63? It looks like a Tial part number? They're basically a reverse of the turbine + AR size so 2803 would suggest its for a GT30 in .82.

To be honest the casting looks as good quality as the tial, machining finish is good but the alignment of the inlet flange in relevant to the casting is slightly off so must have been setup incorrectly before machining

It's a .82 for the gt35 but I know the external size of the housings are the same as Arnold machines his .72 castings for gt35's so may explain the casting numbers?

 

[Scullies]

From the figures i have the journals are all within tolerance when Mic'd but the clearances are large and questionable if they're a pass.....what would you do?

Specs i have is

Mains 54.00mm Big ends 47.80mm Tolerance for both -0.022 to -0.042 mm
Which would make mine just in spec on a couple

The clearances that i've got are 0.01-0.04mm which would put a few of mine out that were 0.045 and some leaning towards 0.05mm

On another note.....i'm gonna be a Dad again

Just my 2c











I think your clearances are OK. From reading the manual, my understanding is that a brand new crankshaft clearances should be,
main journals = 0.02 - 0.04mm and the maximum allowed clearance on a used crank can be 0.15mm.
rod journals = 0.01 - 0.05mm with the max allowed clearance on a used crank 0.12mm

When I built my first stroker, the main and rod clearances were around the 0.04mm on a used TFSI crank (RIP )
When I built my second stroker, the main and rod clearances were around 0.04mm again on a cast 2.0 crank. Its held up so far.
I have also rebuilt a mates TT, 83mm pistons on his used stock 1.8t crank that had done 150k+ km, clearances were again around the 0.04mm mark.

My first engine I used calico coated std size bearings - RIP again.
Second engine and TT engine, I used oem std size bearings.

Both of our oil pressures are around 35psi at idle (hot engine) and sit around 70psi above 4k rpm. Which is factory specs if I remember correctly.

PS: Congrats and good job on sneaking one past the goal keeper :thumbsup:

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers for that mate as was originally under the impression from vortex where someone had posted the tolerances that the upper limit was the wear limit not new

Am gonna roll with it how it is and start putting it back together

My previous block had the OEM coloured mains bearings installed as assume they measure from the factory and assign ever so slightly thicker or thinner bearings?

Will be closely monitoring the oil pressure when back up and running this time

 

[StaceyS3]

Got a little done on the car

Bought some new oil squirters as after speaking to graham on SCN suspect mine could be distorted via over tightening

Here's 3 different types from left to right is AGU, BAM and newer updated VAG replacements







After watching these rads for the last few months have eventually managed to pick one up for a really cheeky low price



Managed to now get all the bottom end assembled and head swiftly bolted to it



Got best part of 2000bhp of turbo on the bench

Left to right is my gtx3071r, hta3582 and my friends eBay gt3582 which were building a stroker and putting in a mk1 golf his eBay turbo comp definately looks bigger than mine

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Is thats a Chinese eBay GT Turbo?

 

[StaceyS3]

Is thats a Chinese eBay GT Turbo?

Yeah splitting his build into 2 parts...solid stroker bottom end with slipper pistons etc, then head, turbo mani etc later in another swoop

Pretty sure he got the turbo and a Chinese tubular mani for around £250 to see him through a little while

 

[StaceyS3]

Following reading on what happened to marks car aka brokenbyzan (sorry to hear what happened if your reading this) I've decided to take the head back off and rehone the bores

What do people think of this type of honing tool? The last one I used was a ball grit flex hone type and not used this type

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

I use the ball one. I find it gives a better finish.

 

[Sam_]

What happened to his block?

 

[StaceyS3]

I use the ball one. I find it gives a better finish.

Do you find the other type ok or is there much in it? As looking at prices the type posted is about a 1/4 if the price of the ball one?

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

Not that much in it really but if someone gave me the choice then i would take the ball one

 

[StaceyS3]

What happened to his block?

From what I can understand (reading snipets here and there so may not be correct) is that he had a fair amount of wear in the small ends which was caused by fuel getting past the rings, possibly due to not rehoning when stripping and reassembling the bottom end

 

[badger5]

From what I can understand (reading snipets here and there so may not be correct) is that he had a fair amount of wear in the small ends which was caused by fuel getting past the rings, possibly due to not rehoning when stripping and reassembling the bottom end

I do not subscribe to this as being "the sole cause"....
Whats not mentioned is the dm rod design, is rifle drilled, has a groove in the small end bush AND a hole in the top of the rod..
Now just ask yourself where is the oil going to travel? Up the rod, round the small end bush groove, and squirt out of the top of the rod into the underside of the piston.. Hmmm.. Adequate lube getting to the pin/bush? I dont think so.

Other rods of different brand I have seen with the same setup.. Which look to be non rifle drilled designs wih added edm oil hole.
OE rods, have no such holes or bush grooves..

something to think about

 

[superkarl]

I used that type of hone. was sceptical at first as id only seen ball tools but it gave the right finish in the end.

 

[StaceyS3]

Cheers for the replys guys if I do rehone it I will just buy one of the tools pictured, but to be honest not sure if I will pull it apart to do it now as was hardly run in and think I may of just had a bout of paranoia after reading about Marks although in the back of my mind was doubting it, still not convinced that the small end wear would contribute that much to valve contact but that's a whole another story

Update

I've got a few bits done lately although nothing special

I've been pretending to be a knock off of PT with lots of painting things but with a lot less finness just slapping hammerite direct to rust on everything for a bit of protection

Items included the new (second hand) subframe, all PAS pipes, little brackets, oil filter housing and AUX equipment bracket





Oil filter housing I've now reverted to my old one that came on the cars original engine to try and eliminate any possibility of the current housing contributing to the oil pressure issues

I also swapped the rad over for the new lightweight one, there's quite a bit of difference in size but can say am impressed so far with the fit and quality







Not sure if will save any weight as will now hold more coolant but all in all think it's a brilliant mod as these cars certainly run hot and the extra cooling capacity wouldn't go a miss

Checked a couple of bits for Sam, I had also wanted to do the double breather mod on the AGN cover but on mine with IE inlet and fuel rail it looks like a very slim chance of making it possible





Am a hopping around for a few goodies at the mo but all will be revealed when I find what I want

 

[<tuffty/>]

Painting stuff is the future... embrace it... Bill has ;P

<tuffty/>

 

[Sam_]

Do you use any spacers on your fuel rail at all? I guess something like this but with less **** raping postage could work:
Mishimoto MMBB 10ANBK Banjo Fitting W Bolt M20 X 10AN | eBay

 

[StaceyS3]

Do you use any spacers on your fuel rail at all? I guess something like this but with less **** raping postage could work:
Mishimoto MMBB 10ANBK Banjo Fitting W Bolt M20 X 10AN | eBay

Yeah the fuel rail has got spacers and funnily enough so has the injectors, without the spacer injectors have got to take some off of the bottom of the fuel rail which will look into doing and see if I gain much?

Also which doesn't help is the phenolic gasket also raises the height