2.0 TDI BMN Injector issues I think, No fault codes. Misfire/hesitation and Intermitt

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mk2vr6

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Hello all,

Not an Audi, but close enough - a Skoda!


I've copied this from another forum, as I'd like a wider scope of help if possible! :D


Its a 2007 Octavia PD TDI VRS.


I got it cheap knowing it had a misfire, and as I dont get my license back for 8 weeks, something to work on in the mean time.


146k miles, FSH with injector recall done 20k miles ago. New clutch, Flywheel and Master and Slave cylinders. New Injector Loom a few months back too.
DPF delete and remapped, standard engine otherwise.


First off the symptoms -


  • Most of the time it struggles to start. Once it has fired up it ticks over lovely and smooth for maybe 10 - 30 seconds. Then it starts to miss slightly. Revving it up it revs quickly and cleanly, and without a hitch. Engine visibly rocks, and can sometimes be felt through cabin too.
  • Constant smell of unburnt diesel, feels almost strong enough to burn your eyes out! lol. However, visible smoke isn't constant and seems to come and go from the exhaust at tick over, and no noticeable change in engine note when smoke appears. No pattern to smoking either.
  • Lack of power! Performance feels flat, and the engine struggles and stutters at higher revs under load. Turbo also whistles more than I'd like.
--> So far I have tried -


Checking the fuel filter (bearing in mind it was replaced a few months back) and for any contamination in housing:








After about an hour -





Doesn't look too bad. I've definitely seen worse.


--> I then started to check measuring blocks on VCDS at idle:








After a quick rev, and a few seconds to settle:





I then went for a spin (someone else driving) down to the bottom of the road and back, and measured again -





Injector 3 Low voltage -





And switch time deviation (I have no idea what this is) -





And a quick Video that sort of shows the symptoms and turbo whistle (if you turn your speakers up really loud!)

 
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So...


I have a feeling there is a problem with cylinder/injector 3. I'd like to hope something as simple as seals, but I'd of thought the diesel would have looked a little darker... The previous owner got a garage to test fit some other injectors; and the car came with three spares in the boot.
Maybe they haven't used new bolts and seals? Of the three injectors in the boot, only one has the seals intact and not damaged.




One thing I didn't mention is I adjusted the rear cam a fart, and it sorted the starting issue. It now starts pretty much first turn of the key.


I turned this pulley a few mm clockwise and centred up the securing bolts in the holes -





And I've got a log of values such as boost pressure and injection quantity here -


https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0Aut99HzxTe_bdFBGdVEyQWNUM1Y0QkdIM1JaUHFIdkE&usp=sharing


The car has definitely been remapped as the ECU is asking for 2.5Bar of boost, and that works out at 21PSI! Although saying that, the specified and actual are actually quite close. Doubt there is a boost leak.



Does anyone have any input? Does the diesel look ok? Values on VCDS look iffy to me re. cylinder 3, can anyone else back me up?


Thanks, Tony.
 
Oh and I also blanked off EGR valve. No difference.
 
audi upgrades
Front can needs adjusting so the torsion value is between 0 & 0.5 yours looks out if spec, then adjust the rear cam to match the same position (by eye). Cylinder 3 looks to be having an issue, but until you've sorted your timing you can't be 100% that cylinder isn't trying to massively balance out the incorrect timing. Seals are usually the first thing to check but also check the injector wiring harness is 100% ok as they can also cause issues.
 
Thanks Max. I'm popping back out to have a play soon, so will try and get timing as near to 0 as possible.

I'll report back.
Thanks again.
 
I think that adjusting the torsion value will not help much. I would replace the 3rd injector, before replacing it with other injector you may try to change injector 3 with any other injector, for example injector 1.
Then you will know if injector is faulty or something is wrong with your engine.
 
I have a feeling something is up with injector/cylinder 3. Feels electrical to me rather than mechanical as the smoke/misfire comes and goes. When it isn't missing it runs absolutely fine, and ticks over lovely and smooth.

However, I will try to adjust KW value first, as it only takes a few mins. I will then whip the rocker cover off and inspect!
 
You can see the small amount of engine oil has risen to the top overnight.



Not a massive amount though. I have seen pics where the diesel is black!!
 
I'm currently sitting in my car doing the same thing u did. I noticed my misfire/judder didn't begin until the "injection start (specified)" reached 5.0 ATDC. Yours the same? i've had this issue for so long now, i just live with it. never really looked into a solution after audi made it worse post injector recall work

My torsion value is 1.49 (positive, not negative like urs). Is this only adjustable by cam timing?
 
I'll double check in a minute. I'm just getting my scruffs on and I'll be out tinkering.

You adjust the KW value by rotating the front cam.

Edit/ and the problem with mine makes the car undriveable. The strong smell of unburnt diesel and the smoke that comes and goes, plus the lack of power.
 
Started to take the inlet manifold off, and noticed the bolt that sits inside the EGR housing thats hidden away was missing!

I found this when I got the manifold off -





It looks to have been letting air in around cylinder 3?!?
 
Got it all back together and started it up. It was misfiring worse than ever. A quick VCDS scan shows injector 1 voltage low. So I rechecked everything to notice where the wiring loom goes into the head the connector was half hanging out! I rotated it slightly and it chugged and just cut out.

I then unscrewed the connector, and pressed it back on firmly so it seated properly and took it for a spin. It drove so much better and the misfire had almost totally gone. Got to the bottom of the street to turn around and come back and it cut out and wouldn't restart! :mad:
 
Just been down to the car to see if it would start (yes at this time of the night!)

Nope. Nothing. It cranks and cranks but wont fire.

Scanned with VCDS and I get the following -

Code: 
Sunday,04,May,2014,00:21:25:32264
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.3
Data version: 20120401



--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


                Address 01: Engine       Labels: 03G-906-018-BMN.clb
Control Module Part Number: 03G 906 018 EL    HW: 03G 906 018 EL
  Component and/or Version: R4 2.0l PPD1.2 G    9953
           Software Coding: 0000072
            Work Shop Code: WSC 25014 551 00000
                      VCID: 73EFC11512AE091
2 Faults Found:

005734 - PD Unit Injector; Cylinder 1 (N240) 
               P1666 - 006 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 6
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 40
                    Mileage: 236323 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 09:03:03

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 832 /min
                    Torque: 80.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                    Battery Volts: 222.2 V
                    Battery Volts: 222.2 V
                    Voltage: 4.61 V
                    Temperature: 14.0°C

001649 - Cylinder 1 Glow Plug Circuit (Q10) 
               P0671 - 006 - Electrical Fault - Intermittent
             Freeze Frame:
                    Fault Status: 00000001
                    Fault Priority: 1
                    Fault Frequency: 1
                    Reset counter: 40
                    Mileage: 236323 km
                    Time Indication: 0
                    Date: 2000.00.00
                    Time: 09:04:32

             Freeze Frame:
                    RPM: 768 /min
                    Torque: 80.0 Nm
                    Speed: 0.0 km/h
                        0.00 %
                    Voltage: 13.45 V
                    Bin. Bits: 10110000
                    Temperature: 22.0°C


Readiness: N/A

I then cleared the codes, and the ****** thing still wouldn't start. Its now staying in the culdesac at the start of our road until the morning.

Any ideas anyone?
 
Those harnesses are a load of pants from what ive seen and experienced. Paid £80 for a new one last time around i think. Swap it over if u can
 
Looks to me very similar symptoms to injector loom failure, as it powers both injectors and glow plugs inside head. However, from what the previous owner told me it had a new one which didn't cure anything! I have the receipt for one in the service history from September 2013. Part number - 03G 971 033 M.

However, the clip that holds the round connector on seems to be broken. The round connector slides on, rotates round and locks into place, but then can be pulled straight off!

Do you know how to test the Injector loom? Or do you have a pin out for ECU? I'd like to check continuity of the loom if poss.
 
A quick write up on todays antics... you'll have to bear with me its a long post. I thought I had solved it, but NO! Im not that lucky.

First port of call was off with the Cam cover, and rocker assembly. (note the missing plunger - I pulled it out and it dropped down in to the engine bay around the steering rack. Whoops)



Inspect cams and rockers the best I can without removing any more to see everything looks ok.





Plungers and rocker tips look a bit worn, but these wern't very well adjusted, so it could have been that.









Remove Injector 3. (suspect injector postively deviating) Check hole to see if ovalled and it looks ok to me.







While I was messing around, I noticed how strange the DPF delete looks!! It looks to be a two piece pipe shaped in an X. Any ideas if this is a homebrew or off the shelf bit of kit?
You can just about make out the bottom of it in these pics -





Injector 3. Some damage to side of piezo stack, and O-Ring with a couple of nicks. Was the correct part number of 03G130073T. Also replaced with one of 3 spares that came with the car.





When I was removing the injector I noticed I could rock it back and forth a bit before I had even tried to remove the bolts. I then found the bolts weren't even that tight in comparison to the others. And one of the bolts on injector 4 was chewed up indicating the bolts had been removed and reused a few times before.
I put it back together paying attention not to overtighten the bolts. I didn't use a torque wrench or follow settings, but used my hand to get it just right. Last thing I wanted was to snap either of them!!

.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ......

Got it all back together, and after a few seconds cranking to get fuel back into the rail it fired into life and ticked over perfectly smooth and quiet!! I revved it up and it returned to idle without a hiccup.

I then scanned it again and got everything showing in spec.

It immediately started at this -



And after a second or two settled down to these values -







I thought I had sorted it!!

I then turned off the engine, phoned my mate and told him the good news. Went inside and made a cuppa etc. Come back out 15 mins later to start it up and it started misfiring and smoking!!! ****** thing haha...

I then checked measuring blocks again and the deviation for cylinder 3 started to go out.





.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ......

Ok so...

There seems to be a sort of pattern to what happens.

The Blueish tinted smoke comes and goes. It also stinks of unburnt diesel at times, but this also comes and goes, and isn't always when it smokes. The injector deviation on cylinder three comes and goes. It is at its worst when it creeps up to 2mg/stroke, however this has nothing to do with the smoke. This can be made to happen by either just lightly prodding the accelerator so that it just blips the throttle a tiny bit, it will then stutter for a few seconds before going back to normal, OR you can make it happen by loading the engine at idle by dipping the clutch with your foot on the brake as this video shows -



Yesterday when it cut out it was showing cylinder 1 injector and glow plug fault, however it is injector 3 showing as the culprit reading the measuring blocks.

This video is my mate taking it for a test drive (he has trade insurance). Not brilliant, but if you turn your speakers up you can just about hear it. Flat like turbo lag until about 2000rpm. Then a massive judder and shake upto about 3000rpm, then smooth power to the redline.



What to test next chaps??

Thanks for sticking with me here. :)
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Nothing wrong with those screen shots, it's only when a cylinder starts creeping up to a deviation of about 1.80 that you need to start investigating, it's when you get to a reading of 2.80 that you've know you've got a real issue. I see your KW/torsion value is still out, warn the engine up to operating temp, turn off all the electrics (especially AC) & re-check the reading. Adjust it to 0 to 0.5 , these engines run like poop on a negative adjustment & it does have a direct effect on the starting & running. While you're at it check your idle adjustment settings in the adaptions tab. Don't ask me why but I've found that dropping the idle from the standard 128 setting to 126 (a decrease of about 5rpm) makes a big difference in starting & running, I really have no idea why although I'm really taking a **** in the dark that the idle speed somehow works as a 'zero point! For some of the ECU calculations. Again this is purely me taking a guess at this, but it has made a difference in how my car runs.
 
max69vk said:
Nothing wrong with those screen shots, it's only when a cylinder starts creeping up to a deviation of about 1.80 that you need to start investigating, it's when you get to a reading of 2.80 that you've know you've got a real issue. I see your KW/torsion value is still out, warn the engine up to operating temp, turn off all the electrics (especially AC) & re-check the reading. Adjust it to 0 to 0.5 , these engines run like poop on a negative adjustment & it does have a direct effect on the starting & running. While you're at it check your idle adjustment settings in the adaptions tab. Don't ask me why but I've found that dropping the idle from the standard 128 setting to 126 (a decrease of about 5rpm) makes a big difference in starting & running, I really have no idea why although I'm really taking a **** in the dark that the idle speed somehow works as a 'zero point! For some of the ECU calculations. Again this is purely me taking a guess at this, but it has made a difference in how my car runs.
Click to expand...

Thanks Max. I was hoping you would comment as reading your previous posts you come across as quite knowledgeable.

I need to aim for a positive Torsion value in degrees of around 0 - 0.5° (not block 3 Injection Duration in Kw?)? I've had a play around with it and found I can't get precise half figures like everyone else seems to such as 0.5, 1, 1.5 etc - I've had values of -0.74°, -1.84°, +3.37°. Unless it is a more precise reading on my version of VCDS?

I'll readjust the Torsion, and set the Idle adaptation to 126 and see what happens.

Someone has mentioned crank sensor playing up, giving the wrong signals. This doesn't always log a fault code, and could be why it was cutting out too? What do you reckon?

Thanks again for your help, I appreciate it :)

Edit/ just looked on google images, and some vehicles report torsion in half degrees, others are more precise to one hundreth of a degree.
 
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Start by getting Group 004 box 4 (Torsion value) to as near to 0.5 as possible, a value of 0.75 will be better than -0.75. Once you've done that & visually matched the rear cam position you will have removed the cam>injector activation timing as being a culprit for poor or over injection (which creates white 'smoke', diesel smell, poor starting etc). Next check the MAF with a 4th gear 25mph to 70mph foot flat the floor run while logging the info, get a friend to do the logging while you drive. See here:- Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: TDI VAG-COM Info this should help diagnose any issues with the MAF or boost.
 
max69vk said:
Start by getting Group 004 box 4 (Torsion value) to as near to 0.5 as possible, a value of 0.75 will be better than -0.75. Once you've done that & visually matched the rear cam position you will have removed the cam>injector activation timing as being a culprit for poor or over injection (which creates white 'smoke', diesel smell, poor starting etc). Next check the MAF with a 4th gear 25mph to 70mph foot flat the floor run while logging the info, get a friend to do the logging while you drive. See here:- Ross-Tech: VAG-COM: TDI VAG-COM Info this should help diagnose any issues with the MAF or boost.
Click to expand...

I will adjust the front cam tomorrow to get it as close to +0.5° as poss.

Can you tell me again in more detail what you mean about matching the rear cam though. Are there any values in VCDS I should aim to get close to by adjusting the position, or is it just to get it in a similar position to the front one by eye?

Thanks again.
 
Unfortunately there is no way of measuring the rear cam timing with VCDS the trick is to get the front cam times up & then visually adjust the rear cam so it matches the position, look at the bolt position on the cam sprockets, it's purely a visual thing & will never be 100% perfect. To get my positioning fairly accurate I times the front cam then used a tapered drill punch to push into the gap beside the adjustment bolt on the cam sprocket & marked on the punch how far it pushed in. I then put the punch into the gap beside the adjustment bolt on the rear cam & adjusted the cam position so the punch couldn't push in any further than the mark I'd made on it earlier. Very basic measuring.
 
max69vk said:
Unfortunately there is no way of measuring the rear cam timing with VCDS the trick is to get the front cam times up & then visually adjust the rear cam so it matches the position, look at the bolt position on the cam sprockets, it's purely a visual thing & will never be 100% perfect. To get my positioning fairly accurate I times the front cam then used a tapered drill punch to push into the gap beside the adjustment bolt on the cam sprocket & marked on the punch how far it pushed in. I then put the punch into the gap beside the adjustment bolt on the rear cam & adjusted the cam position so the punch couldn't push in any further than the mark I'd made on it earlier. Very basic measuring.
Click to expand...

The punch method would work well. However, I've read about using the Litres Per Hour measurement in one of the measuring blocks to get it as close to 0.6l/h at idle? Although cant seem to find any info on it now...

I'll tweak the timing tomorrow and report back, although think this may be a little beside the problem. The way the juddering under load, and the smoke/smell/misfire comes and goes at idle I think it is something else. People have who have never adjusted torsion with VCDS and dont have these problems.

Hmmm...
 
SOMEONE FROM BRISKODA said:
Low pressure pump diagnosis is very straightforward, take out fuel pump fuse, run multimeter in series switched to amps, looking for around 7 Amps of draw constant. Low draw, faulty wiring, pump impeller broken, low fuel level. High draw, seized pump, short circuit in wiring
Click to expand...

Well, I took a reading from the fuel pump fuse...

IMG_20140505_200927_zps8c35adb3.jpg


IMG_20140505_200931_zps71f4a740.jpg


4.46A / 4.47A at idle constantly. What does this tell me then?

I have noticed you can hear the pump prime when you turn the key on. I thought they were normally pretty much silent?


.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ....................

Values are still coming in and out.

IMG_20140504_212026_zpsb75e2280.jpg


And what I've noticed and you can almost see in the following video is the interior lights and dash lights dim when you prod the throttle. I thought that was a bit strange.



You can also see the injector values coming in and out. Sometimes injector 3 is OK.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Makes me wonder if something is fluctuating. I will check the resistance of the injector loom tomorrow, and find out if the crank sensor can be tested too.

Also set the timing to 0.5.

Any other ideas if that fails?
 
Fluctuating power is a weird one, check the alternator pulley is ok. On the TDI the alternator has a one way clutch if this is seized it may be causing the issue.
 
max69vk said:
Fluctuating power is a weird one, check the alternator pulley is ok. On the TDI the alternator has a one way clutch if this is seized it may be causing the issue.
Click to expand...

I thought about this and will check it. The Americans swear they don't last 100k miles...

Its £55.38 for crank sensor from TPS.

Not A massive amount but I don't want to spend money if it isn't going to solve it. I've wasted no end in the past troubleshooting problems using the fit and hope method and promised myself I wouldn't do that with this car.

Anyone know how to test it? I've got No fault codes for it, even when it cut out and wouldn't restart.
 
Also, just a quick thought. What boost pressure should the car be requesting if it has been remapped?
Mine is asking for 2500mBar, so minus atmospheric pressure actually 1.5bar. That's 21.7psi which is an awful lot! My old Audi S4 only used to pull about 18psi!!

Can anyone have a look themselves and compare to my log on the previous page?

Thanks
 
I'll need to find my thread on here from when I was investigating my issues, pretty sure it was peaking around 21psi too.
 
max69vk said:
I'll need to find my thread on here from when I was investigating my issues, pretty sure it was peaking around 21psi too.
Click to expand...

I'll have a peek back through your posts.

I meant to ask you hows the car running? Your Sig shows its looking quite healthy!

................................................

EDIT/ Beat me too it. Thanks mate, so map should be ok. I wonder if there is software that will allow me to download a copy of the Map via the OBD port just to have a butchers?

I've just ordered Injector seals and new bolts (****** expensive for what they are!). I'll check resistance of Injector loom too while I'm in there. I should have ELSAWIN working before the weekend so should have ECU pinout, so can trace it right back hopefully...

Anything else you think I should check? Can compression be tested on these as Glow Plugs are inside head?
 
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You could try & find a 2nd hand STS unit (or I branded equivalent) to download the file, you'd still need the software to read the map though. You can pressure test a PD but it involves using a very specialist bit of kit as the pressures these engines run at would literally explode a standard guage.
 
max69vk said:
You could try & find a 2nd hand STS unit (or I branded equivalent) to download the file, you'd still need the software to read the map though. You can pressure test a PD but it involves using a very specialist bit of kit as the pressures these engines run at would literally explode a standard guage.
Click to expand...

I think you confused my post there. I do not want to test the pressure of the Tandem pump or Injectors. Tandem pump puts out around 80-120Psi at 1500rpm, Injectors something stupid like 25000PSI!
I want to compression test the engine, and on other PD's I have normally done this attaching the gauge to the Glow plug holes.

I keep reading about crank sensor being duff and causing issues like I have. I might take the plunge and go for it...

Tony.
 
audi upgrades
****!

I've ****ed around with the privacy settings on photobucket and it has ruined all of the links to Images!!!
 
Ill add all of the images again here to keep the thread in line...



























































 
Right, where to start! :D

First of all, I had the bits on order from eBay and TPS when I found a post on UK-MK4 forum where a chap said that the injector clamp bolts can stretch over time. I PM'd him for more info and he said that a friend of his is an Ex Master Tech at VW who now owns his own independent garage and he has seen stretched bolts a few times!

Anyway, Got a set of seals - 03G 198 051D - from eBay for £60 delivered from Plymouth Audi (Normally an eye watering £107.33!!). I ordered the rest from TPS -

N10 581 101 - x5 rocker bolt - £5.65 for all
WHT 003 179 - x8 injector bolt - £16.48 for all
03G 145 215 A - tandem pump seal - £6.79.

I also ordered Genuine Oil, filter, fuel filter and air filter for good measure - Funnily enough these bits from TPS where cheaper than Euro's with a 25% discount!

Anyway, I cracked on...

Cam cover off and visual inspection of Cams again after removing rocker arm -




Looking at Cylinder 3 lobes -



Exhaust -




Inlet -



Anyway, I stopped taking so many pics now and cracked on. I whipped the injectors out and noticed immediately why they are called stretch bolts!! Now I know I reused the injector bolts last weekend when I replaced injector #3, but I knew what I was doing, made sure I didn't over tighten them so not to snap them and immediately ordered a full set of new ones.



Pretty obvious why they are USE ONCE. No idea who was working on the car previously, but they are numpties! Previous owner said it was an independent garage, and had also been looked at by Skoda too!
Reusing the injector bolts, and damaging injector seals. Silicone sealant everywhere too - worrying stuff.



After removing the injectors, I kept finding pieces of silicone around the base of the injectors and in the injector holes!



I made sure to clean the seats as best as I could without a compressor and air line. No damage at all.






I then went to remove the Tandem Pump, and found it was pretty much stuck on! Thats where the silicone was (aswell as the cam cover I removed last weekend)



The battery on my phone then died :(

I managed to get the pump off easily enough, but it took me 40 minutes with a stanley blade to clean the mating surface on the head, and the back of the pump. I then removed the pulled out the internal fuel rail and cleaned it up, using a piece of hose to blow through the head. I found no end of tiny pieces of silicone everywhere!

I cleaned the injectors and the nozzles, and used fresh engine oil to lube up the bottom before putting the new O-Rings into place. I also poured a tiny bit down into the injector holes too lining the walls. I managed to press them into place with my hands while rotating them left and right. I torqued them up to 3NM and 270° in one hit. New plunger and adjusting bolt too. I then refitted the rocker arm shaft using new bolts - 20NM and 90°. New Tandem gasket and bolts torqued to 20NM. New Fuel Filter and air filter fitted while I was working on it.

And after about 5 minutes of priming and cranking the engine over on and off in 5 second blasts, but with a massive cloud of smoke... I expected it because of the oil in the injector bores. After 20 seconds the smoke disappeared and it purred.

The engine was noticeably quieter too, and had a perfect tick over with no lumps bumps or misfires. haha.

I took some pictures after tidying up this evening of the bolts, gasket and rocker adjusters and plungers.



You can see they have stretched different amounts, and one head is rounded off too. The clamp marks are from my mole grips.



Plungers - All well worn, but notice the one furthest right was so worn the edge had chipped. Excuse the finger nails - bath time in a moment! lol








Adjusters with a lip to the edge and grooves worn into them -





Siliconed gasket!!




We took the car for a spin and it pulls so well! It is immense for a 2.0 diesel engine, and reasonably refined and quiet too. Still a diesely smell coming from the car, but my mate has borrowed it for the week to put some miles on it, and I will see what its like after 100 miles.

I really suggest anyone with a lumpy idle or noisy engine should replace injector seals. They come with the plungers and adjusters too. Mine has done 146k miles, but has FSH and serviced every 10k too, not on longlife and you can see just how worn they are above.
Even if you dont have a misfire, the difference of noise at idle is night and day. I'll try and get a video to compare the earlier one when he pops round tomorrow.

I am now a very happy man. I'd just like to thank everyone who has helped me across the various forums :D

THANKS!

Tony. :D
 
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Reactions: fletchie55, max69vk and Rhyso
Just to add, I think this was actually caused by the injector bolts stretching. All of the seals I removed today where fine. It was last weekend that I removed injector #3 with the dodgy ones.

Not sure though if they stretched over time, or if the 'mechanic' who worked on it last reused them causing them to lose tension.

The pieces of silicone floating between Tandem pump and injector wouldn't have helped either though.

And again, thanks to you all.

:D
 
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