Stacey's Belated Yo Yo Build Thread

[StaceyS3]

Got a couple more hours late this afternoon/eve and engine is now out

Nice empty engine bay



Huge downpipe



Think the rubber/silicon part of the fire sleeve couldn't cope even with the mani ceramic coated lol



Hoping to get back on it tommorrow if weather and everything else plays ball

 

[badger5]

Think the rubber/silicon part of the fire sleeve couldn't cope even with the mani ceramic coated lol



Hoping to get back on it tommorrow if weather and everything else plays ball

owch!
glad its ally hardpipe for most of that & stainless braided underneath... 1.8t problem is all that heat trapped behind engine bay.... massive oven

 

[StaceyS3]

owch!
glad its ally hardpipe for most of that & stainless braided underneath... 1.8t problem is all that heat trapped behind engine bay.... massive oven

Yeah they do like to get as hot as the sun, at least new turbine should breathe easier possibly resulting in less heat?
Will try some other heat sleeve next time, maybe that DEI sleeve which has a more canvas like outer or possibly something reflective? Will have a look and see if there's anything can bolt an ally heatsheild to

Has anyone removed what I pressume is a heat exchanger for the aircon the other side of the bulkhead before?



Also there's a sensor on one of the aircon pipes (assume pressure sensor) behind the bulkhead heatshield, what have people done in its place?
I will take the meter to it when outside next as presume it's just a run of the mill n/o or n/c switch and will at worst through up an aircon under pressure fault

 

[limbo118118]

iv been looking at that DEI heat sleeves do seem to be better rated than the redthermal sleeving

 

[Broken Byzan]

Dei stuff goes kinda brittle and shiny comes off the thing

 

[Scullies]

I have bought a new evaporator for the aircon system, its on "the list" to do but its a mission job. Basically all the dash and consol need to be removed
I need to do mine before summer comes round again!

I have the workshop manual if you would like to how its done. PM me.

 

[StaceyS3]

Dei stuff goes kinda brittle and shiny comes off the thing

iv been looking at that DEI heat sleeves do seem to be better rated than the redthermal sleeving

Think I will give a shot, may even try one on top of the other if will fit, the more protection the better

 

[StaceyS3]

I have bought a new evaporator for the aircon system, its on "the list" to do but its a mission job. Basically all the dash and consol need to be removed
I need to do mine before summer comes round again!

I have the workshop manual if you would like to how its done. PM me.

Cheers mate sounds like a right mission, will drop you a pm shortly

 

[StaceyS3]

Managed to get a couple of hours in the garage yesterday

Split the gearbox from the engine and got the engine on the stand



Was supprised to see that the friction plate hasn't held up to well







I think a lot of this could be down to the condition of the flywheel?



A closer look at the fire sleeve shows that it's the outer coating that has taken the battering and the inner fibrous material is all in tact



Checked over the timing before removing the belt as had intake cam position faults when first built and started up, according to the cam cover and the mark I made the timing is 1 tooth out

Screwdriver is to help show the groove in the cover



Can just about make out my scribe marks on the pulley tooth and the marks that have been coloured in black one tooth clockwise on the seal casting



I can think of 3 outcomes to this

1. Either the mark I made is wrong

2. The timing mark on the AGN cam cover is different

3. Timing between the exhaust and intake cam is wrong either by the way they were degree'd / installed / manufacturered

Made up some brackets to keep the lower part of the downpipes position for when have to cut the top part off for the repositioning of the flange



After turbo removed



The new turbo is now in the country and hopefully will have it in my possession in the next few days

 

[Sidey]

I was under the impression that AGN cam covers don't come with timing marks?

VWVortex.com - ***DIY-installing AGN valve cover by INA***

 

[StaceyS3]

I was under the impression that AGN cam covers don't come with timing marks?

VWVortex.com - ***DIY-installing AGN valve cover by INA***

There's definately a mark/indent on mine but whether it's relevant to timing or just damage or something who knows? Maybe Bill can chime in as I know he also runs an AGN cover

Will post up a close up pic when next in the garage

 

[Lewis583]

Wasn't there a suspected issue with the cams flow wise when mapping Stace? Maybe the timing being a tooth out could have potentially exaggerated them.

 

[Broken Byzan]

Crank to cam timing was correct at the time of mapping. Cam to cam was as marked. This assumes the marks on the cams were correctly set up.

 

[badger5]

Wasn't there a suspected issue with the cams flow wise when mapping Stace? Maybe the timing being a tooth out could have potentially exaggerated them.

as delivered and on first start up it did throw correlation error from being a tooth out on the cam belt. That was fixed..
cams as installed were checked to be on their 'as marked' positions, but these were set by someone else? arnold?

they did'nt work well, and would only sustain torque if VVT was kept on all the time under load.. which is not the norm indicating to me they were not timed well, cam to cam etc

 

[StaceyS3]

There's always not been something quite right with the timing, possibly one of the external cam to crank marks I used (my own crank marking or what I have been using on the cam cover) the cams were also pre-degree'd on the adjustable sprockets by either Arnold@PAG or Catcams themselves and added timing marks (with a paint pen) which were supposed to be in the OEM positions to set like the OEM 16 roller setup

It could be one of many variables which has created the issue, but I haven't touched the timing since it has been picked up, and I originally timed to the marks pictured

Will hopefully be getting a few more hours on it tommorrow before nights so will be able to look a bit better at the marks on the cams under the cover and check out my TDC mark on the housing as could have cocked that up

 

[StaceyS3]

Also forgot to ask Bill if your cam cover has the OEM timing marks?

Here's a couple of pics of turbo I forgot to put on, it all seems well and in good health





Bit of an odd marking on the hotside housing, can only assume some oil got on there at some point

 

[badger5]

I dont ever use cam cover to validate TDC... physical check TDC is what I always do. Especially on different cam covers.. too vague to trust

 

[Scullies]

what i have noticed.... you find tdc, then align the cams but the cams slowly move back and then cause the belt to be off by one tooth. So I hold the cam pulley bolt in place with spanner and put the belt on. Then tighten up the manual tensioner.
But every time I still have a small pray and crap myself on the first start, expecting everything to be out and hear the sound of pistons smashing valves :busted_cop:

 

[StaceyS3]

Got a bit more time on the engine today going to litter the thread with pics as someone may spot something I haven't and help with the oil pressure and timing issues

This is the timing mark on the AGN cover have been using





The cams look to be on the marks that they were supplied with and 16 roller gap checks out fine









The crank meanwhile was in this position (same as yesterday's pics)



And piston 1 at this position aren't quite at TDC



But when move piston 1 to TDC crank is on the mark





I suspect the intake cam is degree'd incorrectly which gave the fault code as the timing belt is 1 tooth different to how I originally timed it? But who knows it's all getting a bit confusing now lol

Here's a couple of other pics of the pistons and rest of the parts have removed





I know it was using some oil and I t looks like been burning some oil but unsure of where it's come from will have a closer look at the pistons etc when next out there

This is where it currently is at until get out there next

 

[Broken Byzan]

Neatly laid out fair play. My car stuff is thrown inside the car,LOL

 

[StaceyS3]

Neatly laid out fair play. My car stuff is thrown inside the car,LOL

Cheers mate suppose I have a little bit of an OCD with having to know where it all is, but also have to keep it really tidy and organised in there otherwise won't be able to move in there and will be tripping over everything lol

Ps the car is also filled with crap

 

[StaceyS3]

Oooohhh just found this in the hallway when I walked through the door



Going to investigate when I get up later

 

[Westy]

Oooohhh just found this in the hallway when I walked through the door



Going to investigate when I get up later

Happy Valentines Day mate lol. Xx

 

[<tuffty/>]

Not your testicles in a box is it?

;P

<tuffty/>

 

[Westy]

Not your testicles in a box is it?

;P

<tuffty/>

Haha he won't be needing them any more now so he wouldn't even notice if they were sergically removed in the night

 

[StaceyS3]

Haha you guys (and the package) have certainly made my morning and made me smile after waking up a bit tired and grouchy

Also showed the mrs the comments and she did laugh that it happened to be here this morning for me but I'm assured that it's not a valentines gift and will be getting that later





There a little bit of damage to the comp wheel which may try and smooth out a tad with an oil stone before a rebalance



You think at times is this a bit excessive but the crazy fool who have bought this off had modified the comp outlet due to having it fitted to a MOTORBIKE.....yes a motorbike.... Hayabusa to be exact! He had only used it one season and on one run hit a cone knocking the filter off which caused the damage to the comp tips

 

[Andrew@A.L.D]

welcome to the gt35 family

 

[badger5]

seems entry level these days.. lol

 

[StaceyS3]

seems entry level these days.. lol

Wish I had gone to this size when changed to top mount but had the GTX sitting there from the underslung plans

Can you see any problems running it on the current maps whilst making sure health etc is in check or would you only run N75 dissconnected? Obviously would log and check everything

Also any particular sheet heatshielding products you would reconmend? Are there any cheaper egay brands that are still reasonable quality or am I best only going to company's like zircotec and Merlin Motorsport?

 

[badger5]

merlin who i use
its way different airflow to your gtx, so logging essential to know what it will do

 

[StaceyS3]

Am lacking on time on the car and updates at the mo as is all work work work once again

Did manage to get the pistons and crank out last weekend but will have to update that when get some more time

Anyhows onto a really important subject...... Painting the block lol

After the failure of the last stuff I used I'm thinking of using hammerite direct to rust as has been suggested by a few and with previous experience of using it I know it's really hard wearing and adhears to just about anything

Am unsure of colour....

Safe bet but could be a bit more adventurous - black smooth or hammered finish

Leaning towards but quite a bit more bolder - Red to match over engine parts?

Completely and a very bold colour but can look very smart - White

Decisions, decisions....anyone got suggestions on prep, colour and finish?

Old pic of the engine bay to refresh the current look

 

[Sam_]

Black all day long. White will look bad after a while won't it ?

 

[StaceyS3]

Think your probably right Sam and should go for black again

Just was having a little adventurous moment, in the back of my head I think white would of never happened but red was being thought about

Can anyone give me any idea on prep as really want it to last this time

 

[StaceyS3]

A couple of shots of the GTX30 next to the HTA35



Turbine side seems to be a big difference when you look at them side by side



Was going to get my .82 tial housing machined out to the GT35 turbine profile but doesn't look like theres enough meat there, so looks like will have to purchase a new V-banded hotside, am currently unsure on wether to go for arnolds .72 or the normal .82? If the .82 housing will be no where near the limits of the gt35's turbines flow with the hta wheel then the downsize to the .72 seems sensible?
Whats the thoughts?

Got the pistons, rods and crank out of the block although not had time to thouroughly check them over and measure anything, heres a few pics



Worst looking big end (No 3)



The mains were not quite so good as No 3 bearing has worn a fair bit for 1K, the block bearing seems a little out of shape and doesn't grip in position in the block when pushed in which may have caused some of the wear can see





No 3





The block and everything i will go over with a fine tooth comb this time and double check everything i previously measured and did, will plastigauging everything and thouroughly measuring the bores as have got my doubts on how nice a job the machine shop did

 

[s3dave]

i had mine acid dipped, then a Zinc galv coating from Autosmart then a simonz Black Enamel engine paint, it went on really nice...

 

[StaceyS3]

i had mine acid dipped, then a Zinc galv coating from Autosmart then a simonz Black Enamel engine paint, it went on really nice...

View attachment 28175

Cheers mate whats the idea of the galv? Does it seal it prior to painting?

I cleaned mine for about 4 hours in an ultrasonic cleaning tank with hydrochloric cleaning solution iirc

It did look good prior to paint but i either done something terribly wrong or the paint was that shockingly ****





Painted



It all now just appears to be litterally falling off and is rusting

 

[s3dave]

yeah ive seen loads that dont last very long, so i thought i would try and seal it first, it should deff keep the corrosion at bay, but we will see...obv cant comment on longevity yet...

 

[StaceyS3]

In theory it should definately work and at the very least it will improve it

 

[superkarl]

Dave that looks the tits mate!
That's prob the best idea too with a base coat of some sort.

Id personally go for silver. I did mine silver, did a ****E job with crappy paint (high temp) but it will brighten up the engine bay, especially if everything is clean, tidy and painted. Makes things easier to work on.

Are little tiny scratches like that on your big end bearings a problem at all?

Id deffo speak to Arnold about housings, he's prob the best guy to ask and prob won't be biased towards his own. Saying that there's plenty of people with 35r on vortex, can always look there for ideas on peak hp and spool

 

[StaceyS3]

Dave that looks the tits mate!
That's prob the best idea too with a base coat of some sort.

Id personally go for silver. I did mine silver, did a ****E job with crappy paint (high temp) but it will brighten up the engine bay, especially if everything is clean, tidy and painted. Makes things easier to work on.

Are little tiny scratches like that on your big end bearings a problem at all?

Id deffo speak to Arnold about housings, he's prob the best guy to ask and prob won't be biased towards his own. Saying that there's plenty of people with 35r on vortex, can always look there for ideas on peak hp and spool

Yeah I think the few scratches on the big ends aren't an issue but was a bit concerned about the mains no 3 as doesn't fit the block to well and has worn quite a bit taking the coating off of the running surface

Have got a better pic



Have previously spoke to Arnold about pricing and machining of his v-band gt30 housing, am strongly considering his .72 housing as suspect I won't be hitting the flow limit of that size housing anyways? I did also discussed cams and he was steering me towards some cat offerings but think will still stick with my instincts and go with IE this time