Diverter Valve

[Quattrodude]

Hi All,
I'm quite new to this forum having only bought my first Audi about 3 weeks ago.
It's a 2.0t Avant Quattro with 85k on the clock, one careful lady owner since 2005.
I've been browsing the site and been reading up on the diverter valve subjects and it seems like quite a common but inexpensive and small job to remedy.
However, what I'd like to know more of is how does the car perform when the valve is shot? Is it a gradual decline or instant and do the symptoms depend on the severity of the failure?
The reason I ask is that when I first got the car, I didn't think it seemed as fast as it should be although I thought that might be just the fact that it is 4 wheel drive and so the sensations on acceleration are not as same as in a 2 wheel drive car.
Like I said, I've read up a bit on here and have started to think that my diverter valve may be shot, but I still have my reservations.
When I'm in traffic or having a blast down the lanes, the car feels quite lively and fun to drive, it's only when I get further through the rev range or past 2nd gear that the acceleration when coming onto the motorway from a slip road, or blasting off a roundabout on a duel carriageway, that it feels more sluggish than I'd like. I thought the turbo would take me a lot further than it does and the car would feel very quick, however it just feels like a nippy 2.0 na engine.
I'm thinking about getting it over to Awesome GTI in Irlam to have it looked at, but from what I am explaining above, does this seem like a diverter valve issue?
Cheers
Chris

 

[s5joe]

I would take it off yourself and have a look at it as awesome will charge you just as much to look at it than it is to replace it. You can not miss it if it's broke it will be split like this.

 

[Quattrodude]

Thanks for the pic, that will come in handy if I bother to take off the valve myself.
Just wondering what other owners experienced before they decided to check their valves for faults.

 

[cjsmidt]

I`ve had mine for about 5 months now, I previously owned a volvo s60 t5 which felt a lot quicker, luckily as my neighbour purchased the volvo we compared 0-60 times and there was no difference, they just feel slow mate, probably nothing wrong just get a re-map

 

[Quattrodude]

I`ve had mine for about 5 months now, I previously owned a volvo s60 t5 which felt a lot quicker, luckily as my neighbour purchased the volvo we compared 0-60 times and there was no difference, they just feel slow mate, probably nothing wrong just get a re-map

That's the plan eventually, just want to make sure I'm running 100% as standard first so I can feel the true improvement

 

[Giosabcsl]

Thanks for the pic, that will come in handy if I bother to take off the valve myself.
Just wondering what other owners experienced before they decided to check their valves for faults.

To be honest I can kind of understand were you coming from.

But let me sort of try give you a few ideas.

The car for a start is around 1600kg which a little 2.0t motor has to move that weight which already in its own is a bit of a struggle. Having said that when they get going they get going. Considering I own a quattro myself it may not give you the initial kick like the fwd but the difference is that your traction will out way the fwd version were it be dry, snow or wet.

Another thing I can explain is your car has what they call a Ko3 turbo which ill be honest is big by any means so your initial kick will be nice and low down from say 2000 rpm and your peak boost will be anything around 2800/3000rpm. Anything after 5000/5500 rpm if you have taking it to that rev range, you will notice that initial poke isn't there because the turbo runs out of steam at high revs.

If the diverter valve is torn/shot/damaged your car wont boost correctly so it wont be a gradual decline it just will feel underpowered all the time.

You could always just get a local mate to scan your car for fault codes because usually the diverter valve will show up if there is a fault.

Having said all the above if you driving the vehicle and say you in 2nd gear around 2000rpm and literally just nail your foot flat to the floor as the car goes through the revs you should feel a surge as well as you should feel your front wheels trying to pull the car forward but gravity pushing you back in your seat now this sort of force wont be the one of a 500hp car but it should give you a reasonable amount of push back. If its not pushing you, basically you loosing power some were.

 

[Quattrodude]

Hi thanks for the reply, the car does feel poky at low revs, and to be honest it feels quite quick but I thought it would feel quicker off the lights and in higher revs.

Maybe I am used to the torque pull of a diesel having owned a few over the years.

Interestingly, I find that acceleration feels better when I press the accelerated lightly, rather than flooring the pedal. Not sure why.

I've had the car checked over by a mate who is a mechanic and they tested it against another 2.0t they had in and said there was no difference. The valve on that one could be shot of course !

 

[Big Al]

Hi mate, check my GFB DV+ diverter valve review, it should help you alot. It does sound like your valve has broken. My drove the same with a knackered valve! It did feel like a NA 2.0 without a turbo...

http://www.audi-sport.net/vb/audi-s...1-turbo-bypass-valve-tfsi-engines-review.html

Kind Regards Alistair

 

[Quattrodude]

Hi Al,
Cheers for that, I'm certainly thinking of upgrading to one of those.
Recently I've been quite happy with the car, it's sporty, agile, holds the road like nothing I've driven and picks up nicely whilst on the move.
I had some fun on a roundabout in the ice a few weeks ago .
I do think I will replace the valve anyway just to be 100% happy that it's giving me what I bought it for.
Having owned an X-Type 2.0 diesel before my Audi, I guess I'm just not used to having to change down a gear to get the maximum performance.
As most people know, you can overtake in 4th in a decent diesel and they will accelerate you up a 20% incline in 5th!

 

[lukas883]

Hi there,
i have same problem with my car, i bought A4 Avant SE Sline quattro BUL engine, car have 67k miles done and im sure that the car is not pulling as it should. But in my case situation is not so complicated because after VCDS scan i got that :

008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P2261 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 106794 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3374 /min
Load: 9.8 %
Speed: 119.0 km/h
Temperature: 80.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097

I will replace Dv with latest D series and maybe add a DV+ adapter i will replace N75 too just in case, however i have 2 more fault codes and i have to sort this out before i go for re-map

001056 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 106739 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2404 /min
Load: 27.8 %
Speed: 99.0 km/h
Temperature: 79.0°C
Temperature: 18.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

and that

001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
P0642 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 107070 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: -40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V

 

[Craig Cull]

Hi there,
i have same problem with my car, i bought A4 Avant SE Sline quattro BUL engine, car have 67k miles done and im sure that the car is not pulling as it should. But in my case situation is not so complicated because after VCDS scan i got that :

008801 - Boost Pressure Control Valve (N249): Mechanical Malfunction
P2261 - 008 - Implausible Signal - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 5
Mileage: 106794 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 3374 /min
Load: 9.8 %
Speed: 119.0 km/h
Temperature: 80.0°C
Temperature: 16.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 990.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097

I will replace Dv with latest D series and maybe add a DV+ adapter i will replace N75 too just in case, however i have 2 more fault codes and i have to sort this out before i go for re-map

001056 - Catalyst System; Bank 1: Efficiency Below Threshold
P0420 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 106739 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 2404 /min
Load: 27.8 %
Speed: 99.0 km/h
Temperature: 79.0°C
Temperature: 18.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 980.0 mbar
Voltage: 14.097 V

and that

001602 - Sensor Reference Voltage A: Circuit: Low
P0642 - 002 - Lower Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100010
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 107070 km
Time Indication: 0

Freeze Frame:
RPM: 0 /min
Load: 0.0 %
Speed: 0.0 km/h
Temperature: -40.0°C
Temperature: -40.0°C
Absolute Pres.: 0.0 mbar
Voltage: 0.000 V

Definitely worth changing the diverter mate, I've got a brand new rev D, will post for £40 if it's any use to you? Don't think the other is engine related, could be battery or alternater related, but I could be wrong. Give me a pm if needs be

 

[Craig Cull]

Hi All,
I'm quite new to this forum having only bought my first Audi about 3 weeks ago.
It's a 2.0t Avant Quattro with 85k on the clock, one careful lady owner since 2005.
I've been browsing the site and been reading up on the diverter valve subjects and it seems like quite a common but inexpensive and small job to remedy.
However, what I'd like to know more of is how does the car perform when the valve is shot? Is it a gradual decline or instant and do the symptoms depend on the severity of the failure?
The reason I ask is that when I first got the car, I didn't think it seemed as fast as it should be although I thought that might be just the fact that it is 4 wheel drive and so the sensations on acceleration are not as same as in a 2 wheel drive car.
Like I said, I've read up a bit on here and have started to think that my diverter valve may be shot, but I still have my reservations.
When I'm in traffic or having a blast down the lanes, the car feels quite lively and fun to drive, it's only when I get further through the rev range or past 2nd gear that the acceleration when coming onto the motorway from a slip road, or blasting off a roundabout on a duel carriageway, that it feels more sluggish than I'd like. I thought the turbo would take me a lot further than it does and the car would feel very quick, however it just feels like a nippy 2.0 na engine.
I'm thinking about getting it over to Awesome GTI in Irlam to have it looked at, but from what I am explaining above, does this seem like a diverter valve issue?
Cheers
Chris

I would start with the diverter 100% mate, mine was the same, as above, rev D with the GFB DV+
I have 2 new Rev D's. Bought them for mine, but ain't doing what I want with the stage 3 map. Forge seems to be the only one that works, could save you some cash. Pm me if your interested

 

[Molnboman]

That's the plan eventually, just want to make sure I'm running 100% as standard first so I can feel the true improvement

Yep, depends what shape the DV is in damage wise.....all the symptoms lead to a knackered dv. It does make a significant difference when changed....I had no symptoms other than as a 2.0t I thought it should have been quicker. The DV probably should be done as precautionary measure anyway.....it's a cheap part in comparison to other bits and bobs. Wonder if we should have bets to see what model dv is on there.....and what kind of nick its in.....get the pics up once it's done.'

Good Luck,
A

 

[Quattrodude]

Hi guys, just an update. I've got my car booked in to Awesome in Irlam on Friday.
I initially requested the GFB DV+ but they said they have stopped supplying and fitting them due to online concerns about boost issues. (Interestingly they still have an image of the DV+ as the link to the valves section on their website). I'm not that much of a techno buff when it comes to cars and so I can't really elaborate on that much until I have a face to face conversation with them on Friday. It's always much harder to remember things over the phone.
Anyway, I've gone for the replacement DV valve which I believe is the forged upgrade. OEM 1.8T/2.0T/2.5T Upgraded Piston Diverter Valve 06H 145 710D - A4 (B7) - Audi - Shop By Car | Awesome GTI It's costing me £99 to buy and have fitted. I'm sure they quoted me £60 for the part, whereas it is £45 on their website and so I might challenge this.
I'm intrigued as to whether I will notice an improvement, hopefully I will, and as someone mentioned above, it is definitely a worthwhile routine maintenance exercise.
I will give another update on Friday when I get the car back, and hopefully get hold of the old DV to be able to post a pic of it's state.
I still notice, even today, that the turbo seems to kick in more when I release my foot of the gas, which I imagine is due to less pressure being applied to a damaged valve - fingers crossed.

 

[Giosabcsl]

Just to help you there quattro dude the reason it will be £60 for the part is because they are quoting you on a Audi part. On the site there is the choice for either the piersberg and the audi one. The audi being £60 and the piersberg being £45.

Just a thought.

 

[Quattrodude]

oh yes, you're right. Thanks mate

 

[Quattrodude]

Well, I've just got back from Awesome and what can I say other than WOW !!!!
I had the 710d Diverter Valve fitted and the difference is absolutely amazing !!
I asked them to keep the old valve for me and so when I knew my car was ready, as I approached the guys behind the desk, one asked me whether I knew, or expected the old DV to be goosed. I said, well I thought my car should be quicker really, and from what I've read online I thought it was a worthwhile job to have done anyway.
They pulled out the old DV and showed it to me.....as you can see from the pics, the rubber is well and truly shot !!

As I pulled out of the car park on to the industrial estate roads I set off gently, changed to 2nd then pressed down the accelerator and the difference was amazing !! The pull was incredible compared to before and the revs go up much quicker !
It really did bring a smile to my face, not just because it really was a worthwhile spend of £94 but the car feels totally different ! Like actually fast !! Like it actually has a turbo now !!!
I'm know I'm gonna have some fun driving it now !

I'm really made up and credit to the guys at Awesome !! They even washed my car for me !!

oh and thanks to all you lot too for your advice

 

[Av4nt]

Good stuff, Mines booked in tuesday to have the same valve replaced with the uprated one that you got before its remapped. wonder if there wil be any tears on mine, be interesting to find out. I dont appear to have any boost issues atm but Ive come from a torqy diesel so who knows.

 

[imotepify]

Think I will get a DV as a service item, might give the DTM a boost if the old one is knackered how much do Audi charge for the latest revision?

 

[Giosabcsl]

Think I will get a DV as a service item, might give the DTM a boost if the old one is knackered how much do Audi charge for the latest revision?

As stated above "The audi being £63 and the piersberg being £45."

Price hasn't really changed

 

[imotepify]

lol that makes a nice change, got charged £4.50 for a pint the other day this and the fishing licence are about the only things that have stayed the same price. How hard are these 2 replace?

 

[Giosabcsl]

They are literally 3 bolts/screws w.e you want to call it, it is very easy if you know someone with a ramp. If you got hands like a Chinese then you can do it from the top of the car which is tight otherwise you have to take the skid plate/under tray off then work from underneath.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Any thoughts at what early stage time wise or milage this problem may be likely to occur.
is it more a wear and tear issue that leads to the failure or heat from the engine bay reducing the working life of the valve .
I was thinking about replacing mine shortly but wanted to be sure on which route to take, just get the revised valve or get it plus the "GFB DV+ " , what is the overall view on best fitment etc.

rob