Refurbed yellows brembo install tomorrow... Any tips?

Craig Cull

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Hi guys, installing these tomorrow, I've read most of the threads so I know the jist of it, but I'd like to know if you have any tips on bleeding, which side first etc, or shall I just crack on and see how I go? Any tips would be great! :)



 
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No tips for you, Craig, as I'm clueless on anything mechanical. But they look fantastic. Hope you like the stopping power once they're on.
 
No tips for you, Craig, as I'm clueless on anything mechanical. But they look fantastic. Hope you like the stopping power once they're on.

Cheers Jeff! Glad you like. Mechanic was meant to fit the coilovers and brakes tomorrow but had to drop out. I can't wait any longer so I'm gonna crack on myself.... Hopefully the result will mean I can actually stop lol!
 
Doesn't look like you've swapped the balance pipe and nipples around? You'll struggle to bleed with the nipples on0 the bottom of the caliper.
 
Doesn't look like you've swapped the balance pipe and nipples around? You'll struggle to bleed with the nipples on0 the bottom of the caliper.

Seriously? Didn't realise I had to do that! Gonna seriously screw up the paint job. Any reason why it's gonna be hard to bleed? Or is it just that the nipples are hard to get to?
 
Wow, great set of stoppers.
 
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Basically the smallest piston should be the leading piston so it has to be at the bottom as our calipers mount on the rear of the disc, on the Porsche they mount to the front so the smallest piston would be at the top as yours are. To get round this you swap the nipples and balance pipe so the balance pipe is at the same end of the caliper as the smallest piston. If you mount them like that as air naturally rises it will trap in the balance and will prob cause issues when bleeding.
I'd take the balance pipe off and give it a quick spray with silver or black and refit at the other end of the caliper. I think it looks a bit better as well as it's another wee attention to detail instead of just looking like the whole caliper has just been sprayed if you know what I mean.
How are you planning to bleed? I used a Gunson easi bleed and it was a doddle. Can't remember but I'm sure they recommend bleeding the inner side of the caliper first then the outer. If you do use the Gunson ignore the instructions regarding the air pressure, anymore than 15psi and you could blow the fluid resevoir. Mine blead easy and quickly with 12psi.
Personally I wouldn't be fitting them until all your suspension work is done anyway, I've messed about on the front suspension and the chances of changing to coilovers and fitting arbs without damaging the caliper paint is slim. It's hard enough to change a wheel without chipping the paint, I bought another couple of the plastic pegs that are in the car tool kit as they make it so much easier and safer to remove and refit the wheel without it contacting the caliper.

You should clean the paint off the mountings of the calipers too.

Hope you didn't buy the crazy overpriced mounting bolts from Ebay?
 
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Another couple things, assuming you're using ML discs? Did you do the wee mod to them?

I think you'll be ok with your CH's but do a dry fit first before you start messing about with brake lines etc as the calipers limit wheel choice drastically!!!
 
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Basically the smallest piston should be the leading piston so it has to be at the bottom as our calipers mount on the rear of the disc, on the Porsche they mount to the front so the smallest piston would be at the top as yours are. To get round this you swap the nipples and balance pipe so the balance pipe is at the same end of the caliper as the smallest piston. If you mount them like that as air naturally rises it will trap in the balance and will prob cause issues when bleeding.
I'd take the balance pipe off and give it a quick spray with silver or black and refit at the other end of the caliper. I think it looks a bit better as well as it's another wee attention to detail instead of just looking like the whole caliper has just been sprayed if you know what I mean.
How are you planning to bleed? I used a Gunson easi bleed and it was a doddle. Can't remember but I'm sure they recommend bleeding the inner side of the caliper first then the outer. If you do use the Gunson ignore the instructions regarding the air pressure, anymore than 15psi and you could blow the fluid resevoir. Mine blead easy and quickly with 12psi.
Personally I wouldn't be fitting them until all your suspension work is done anyway, I've messed about on the front suspension and the chances of changing to coilovers and fitting arbs without damaging the caliper paint is slim. It's hard enough to change a wheel without chipping the paint, I bought another couple of the plastic pegs that are in the car tool kit as they make it so much easier and safer to remove and refit the wheel without it contacting the caliper.

You should clean the paint off the mountings of the calipers too.

Hope you didn't buy the crazy overpriced mounting bolts from Ebay?

Thanks Ajax,
That's a massive help, I've done such a big conversion in a short space of time whilst still using it as my daily driver, that I've missed a couple of points that could cost me. After looking at the caliper, I totally understand why the caliper should have the big piston to the bottom. I also understand why just switching the calipers is not an option and I'm not prepared to bodge it. I think I'll paint the balance pipe black tomorrow. I did actually come a croper to the Porsche caliper bolts at £60 because I wanted the job to be finished this week. Although not proud, the full conversion with everything pictured still stands me at £585. So I can't really complain. I will take you advice on doing the coilovers first as I don't want to damage to the calipers. I've done the roll bars, so hopefully this will be the final straw other than fitting the S4 rears next week. I'm just gonna bleed them manually at home as I can't get it into work unfortunately. Unless this is a big no no.....
 
Another couple things, assuming you're using ML discs? Did you do the wee mod to them?

I think you'll be ok with your CH's but do a dry fit first before you start messing about with brake lines etc as the calipers limit wheel choice drastically!!!

Yes mate, had the centre bore sorted, my ch's are et35. I really hope they don't need a spacer as they are level with the wheel arch as it is. If they do need a spacer I will have to drop to 225/35x19's and possibly add a spacer. I'm hoping this isn't the case as it's perfect on the front, but I'd like to add a spacer on the rear... Plus I can't have a lower profile as the roads are just shocking where I live, dropping to 225's just isn't an option... Talk about living life on the edge lol!!
 
At £585 it's still a quality big brake conversion for a bargain price!!! The way I look at it if you were to buy stock calipers, discs etc you'd be close to that sort of money.

Treat yourself to an Easibleed Craig, £20 in Halfords or cheaper online. Just connects to the air valve on a wheel and bleeds in minutes, I used my spare wheel but just remember to drop the pressure in it to about 15psi!! It's also much cleaner too so less chance of getting fluid on the caliper as you only need to crack the nipple open a tiny amount, open it once for a minute or so for the air to clear then close, none of this open/close/open/close malarkey. Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating and with ABS pumps etc if you get it wrong it can be a disaster.

If you're carefull with the spanner you'll be able to remove the pipe, paint and refit without damaging the paint at all on the caliper.
 
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Yes mate, had the centre bore sorted, my ch's are et35. I really hope they don't need a spacer as they are level with the wheel arch as it is. If they do need a spacer I will have to drop to 225/35x19's and possibly add a spacer. I'm hoping this isn't the case as it's perfect on the front, but I'd like to add a spacer on the rear... Plus I can't have a lower profile as the roads are just shocking where I live, dropping to 225's just isn't an option... Talk about living life on the edge lol!!


Tell me about it, you can research offsets etc and still get caught out. It's all down the the design and spoke shape on the inside of the wheel. I've seen quite a few cars with Cayennes and CH's and never read of anyone having issues so pretty sure you'll be fine especially with ET35.
 
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At £585 it's still a quality big brake conversion for a bargain price!!! The way I look at it if you were to buy stock calipers, discs etc you'd be close to that sort of money.

Treat yourself to an Easibleed Craig, £20 in Halfords or cheaper online. Just connects to the air valve on a wheel and bleeds in minutes, I used my spare wheel but just remember to drop the pressure in it to about 15psi!! It's also much cleaner too so less chance of getting fluid on the caliper as you only need to crack the nipple open a tiny amount, open it once for a minute or so for the air to clear then close, none of this open/close/open/close malarkey. Bleeding brakes can be very frustrating and with ABS pumps etc if you get it wrong it can be a disaster.

If you're carefull with the spanner you'll be able to remove the pipe, paint and refit without damaging the paint at all on the caliper.

Mate your an absolute life saver, I'll go buy one from halfords in the morning. I didn't realise you could buy something like that. My dad was just telling me how much of a ballache it can be doing it manually. I'll fit the shockers first then go for the brakes on Sunday. Your help is very much appreciated :)
 
Tell me about it, you can research offsets etc and still get caught out. It's all down the the design and spoke shape on the inside of the wheel. I've seen quite a few cars with Cayennes and CH's and never read of anyone having issues so pretty sure you'll be fine especially with ET35.

I'm definitely going to sleep tonight, just hope to god another obstacle doesn't step in my way. These cars are a challenge to work on, especially when your not a mechanic. Paint work is my speciality although I will try anything, thanks to people like yourself. Thanks again, your help is greatly appreciated :-D
 
I'm definitely going to sleep tonight, just hope to god another obstacle doesn't step in my way. These cars are a challenge to work on, especially when your not a mechanic. Paint work is my speciality although I will try anything, thanks to people like yourself. Thanks again, your help is greatly appreciated :-D

Agree with you there Craig, I came from MK4 Golfs and they were a doddle to work on compared to the A4. I'm not a mechanic or anything to do with the motor industry but luckily I can pick up most things fairly quickly and enjoy trying and learning. The more I do on my car the better I understand it and things do get easier.
I only pass on things that others have passed on to me or picked up and learned for myself. I researched the Cayennes a lot before doing mine and bugged other members with PMs asking questions etc so I'm happy to and only fair I answer other guys questions, that's what forums are all about:)
 
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