Revo Engine Mounts Fitted S3

Jonse

Jonse

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Hi All,

On Friday i had the Revo Engine Mounts fitted to my S3 (Dogbone/Engine/Transmission). Was abit unsure what to expect as i don't think many people have done this.

First impressions was the engine noise is so much louder on normal driving to the extend that i nearly turned around to get them removed. The drive itself has improved alot. I have the loba stage 2 clutch. I find it has the a sharp biting point and the mounts help alot. Gear changes have become alot smoother and easier to change at higher revs. My car is Revo Stage2+.

Still in two minds what to do. Either let them bed in and see if the cabin noise gets quieter or put the stock mounts back on.

Here is a video to show the noise:

Revo Technik Engine Mounts Audi S3 Stage 2 + - YouTube

Anyone else got uprated engine mounts fitted?

What your opinion on the noise?

Thanks

Ryan
 
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Doesn't sound too bad on the video. If the driving is better then keep them on. You'll get used to the change in cabin noise in no time.
 
Sounds pretty harsh to me.
Only you can decide but my guess is if your questioning it already then it's no good.
This isn't something I could live with as I like a quick car but still some refinement.
 
Marshy said:
Sounds pretty harsh to me.
Only you can decide but my guess is if your questioning it already then it's no good.
This isn't something I could live with as I like a quick car but still some refinement.
Click to expand...

Yeah i know what you mean and that is still the thought in my head, but if the noise gets quieter then it will be awesome. Maybe i should just remove the transmission mount as ive read on the VW Golf forums that is the one that generates all the noise.
 
I have nothing to add apart from that it sounds awesome, I need Stage 2+ and a GoPro :salute:

Do you have a Miltek TBE res/non res?
 
Even with my dogbone fast road mount, the refinement has gone, so with engine mounts and transmission mounts too, I can only imagine the raw-ness of it.
 
How have you found driving it with just the dogbone mount? Have you got use to it?

mjr901 said:
Even with my dogbone fast road mount, the refinement has gone, so with engine mounts and transmission mounts too, I can only imagine the raw-ness of it.
Click to expand...
 
Jonse said:
How have you found driving it with just the dogbone mount? Have you got use to it?
Click to expand...

It's not too different to standard on the move, but when your parking it sends vibrations through everything, steering wheel, seats, my **** cheeks....the mrs likes it?? ;)

9/10 your not parking so I'm happy with it, adds the touch of 'I mean business' to it all when it does do it though.

Engine rock is relatively slim, I'd be interested in having a go in one with all the mounts changed, a video never paints the full picture.

And to be fair, the refinements gone anyway, non res Milltek is pretty much all you can hear, and the rns-e is always fighting with the Gala settings and turning the volume up automatically!!
 
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Revo do engine mounts. I did not know that. Every day's a school day!

And that noise is quite the rumble. Id say that would annoy me a lot after a few days.
 
I have the THS engine mounts in my S3 and the noise from the engine is fantastic IMO - much throatier and meaningfull now plus there is very little engine movement when going through the gears - very worth while mod!
 
I've got the revo kit to go on hope there ok maybe Just needs time to bed in a bit?
 
I've got the VWR/Vibratechnics mounts on mine,and difference aside,I wouldn't expect that there's going to be a whole lot of bedding in,apart from you getting used to the extra noise and vibration,which does happen pretty quickly.

The bushes will be about as stiff as the VWR kit,and should be as durable,which,combined with an SMF clutch/flywheel setup,does introduce a lot more engine and transmission thrash into the car.

Personally,I think the clutch itself is responsible for a lot of it,but the uprated mounts allow a lot more of that through.
 
I read the vibratechnic mounts are a lot easier on your teeth :)
 
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voorhees said:
I read the vibratechnic mounts are a lot easier on your teeth :)
Click to expand...

That depends on your teeth....LOL

The fast road mounts aren't bad.

The race mounts(solid ) will have your fillings out.
 
I'd like to just minimalise that engine rock/shunt when trying to pull away or accelerate hard - which one is the first to try?
 
batch said:
Cheers Mike, take it that doesn't increase feedback too badly?
Damn you lot, this was supposed to end at a remap and regular pro detail!
Click to expand...

All you'll get is a few more vibes at low RPM, ie parking. Its an easy mod, cheap too. :yum:

10982200746_0b922eb122.jpg
 
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Had a chat with the garage today. They have asked if I can give it a week to see if they bed in. Also they mentioned that the noise could be due to my SMF. So if the noise doesn't decease then they will swap the transmission mount back and road test.
 
Boydie said:
I have the THS engine mounts in my S3 and the noise from the engine is fantastic IMO - much throatier and meaningfull now plus there is very little engine movement when going through the gears - very worth while mod!
Click to expand...

What clutch are you running?
 
Great reading this folks, especially if you going down these lines. :detective2:
 
One of my engine mounts failed last week (looked like the engine was away to fall out the engine bay), really need to think about upgrading. Whats the best option in terms of least vibration through the cabin?
 
gilberto said:
One of my engine mounts failed last week (looked like the engine was away to fall out the engine bay), really need to think about upgrading. Whats the best option in terms of least vibration through the cabin?
Click to expand...

I think you'll find that all uprated mounts as a product of being stiffer,will transmit a bit more noise and vibration,but most are not intrusive,unless you use solid mounts,which most tuners would advise against in any case.
 
I've got the revo ones and clutch with a single mass flywheel first couple hundred miles was quite noisy but it's got a lot better only done 500 get a little vibration but really only on coming down the revs like if u let the car slow in gear from high revs if u get me lol i got mine on ebay for bit cheaper so have a look there
 
keendean said:
When you say it's easy to fit, how? :) thanks
Click to expand...

Undo 1 bolt,ie lower engine bolt, fairly apparent when your under there.

Completely cake the rubber mount and it's female counterpart in copper grease.

Then slide her in...will be a VERY tight fit, so get it in as much as you can, then start winding the bolt in with the large washer fitted, that'll ensure the rubber insert goes in evenly.

Personally I'd use a ramp, would be an complete **** on the floor.

Good to keep the engine supported a little too, not too much though, else the bolt won't like up with the dogbone when you go to wind it in.
 
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mjr901 said:
Undo 1 bolt,ie lower engine bolt, fairly apparent when your under there.

Completely cake the rubber mount and it's female counterpart in copper grease.

Then slide her in...will be a VERY tight fit, so get it in as much as you can, then start winding the bolt in with the large washer fitted, that'll ensure the rubber insert goes in evenly.

Personally I'd use a ramp, would be an complete **** on the floor.

Good to keep the engine supported a little too, not too much though, else the bolt won't like up with the dogbone when you go to wind it in.
Click to expand...

Thanks! About 30 mins then on a ramp?
 
keendean said:
Thanks! About 30 mins then on a ramp?
Click to expand...

Yeah around that. If you buy the track one it'll probably be easier to fit as it doesn't flex so much when you push on it.

The fast road one is bendy so can be a little awkward I suppose.

Could also use a hydraulic gearbox stand with a block of wood on top to apply even pressure to it.

Lubrication is the way forward.
 
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I fitted my yellow insert today. I done it on the floor and since fitting it the vibration is pretty bad!
I'm hoping it beds in after a few miles! Best way of describing mine is the car feels like its got a misfire up to about 3k
On a positive note it feels good when driving and gear selection seems better
 
Last edited:
Marshy, its an old thread i know but have the vibrations reduced now? Was it a good mod?
 
My vibration was because my dmf was knackered.
Since replacing my clutch and dmf its been fine and a must if your running a sports downpipe
 
S3Alex said:
I've got the VWR/Vibratechnics mounts on mine,and difference aside,I wouldn't expect that there's going to be a whole lot of bedding in,apart from you getting used to the extra noise and vibration,which does happen pretty quickly.

The bushes will be about as stiff as the VWR kit,and should be as durable,which,combined with an SMF clutch/flywheel setup,does introduce a lot more engine and transmission thrash into the car.

Personally,I think the clutch itself is responsible for a lot of it,but the uprated mounts allow a lot more of that through.
Click to expand...

Ive just fitted the VT race mounts to the race car (had solid mounts before). Will have to see how they go in testing.
 
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Jonse said:
Hi All,

On Friday i had the Revo Engine Mounts fitted to my S3 (Dogbone/Engine/Transmission). Was abit unsure what to expect as i don't think many people have done this.

First impressions was the engine noise is so much louder on normal driving to the extend that i nearly turned around to get them removed. The drive itself has improved alot. I have the loba stage 2 clutch. I find it has the a sharp biting point and the mounts help alot. Gear changes have become alot smoother and easier to change at higher revs. My car is Revo Stage2+.

Still in two minds what to do. Either let them bed in and see if the cabin noise gets quieter or put the stock mounts back on.

Here is a video to show the noise:

Revo Technik Engine Mounts Audi S3 Stage 2 + - YouTube

Anyone else got uprated engine mounts fitted?

What your opinion on the noise?

Thanks

Ryan
Click to expand...
 
Had the same issue,first take the car to a drive and then unbolt the screw in the middle to realign the mount,then torque it to the spec,dont overtighten
 
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