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Gops' Subtle mod thread
- Thread starter Gops
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Yes bill, the haldex can still be turned off via the fuse or connector, the sandwich plate only limits the fluid to the haldex making it more rear bias I think. It's totally adjustable so I can revert it to stock anyhow!
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Yes bill, the haldex can still be turned off via the fuse or connector, the sandwich plate only limits the fluid to the haldex making it more rear bias I think. It's totally adjustable so I can revert it to stock anyhow!
Vert true
No need to worry Bill
i will look into this.. Ill see if the DP should require it. From what I can remember it was the early DP's that were abit small? But I will defo see to that!
thanks bud! Looking forward to it too!
lol thanks nick! Your build made me want to get some power! I think stage2 just isn't enough to keep with modern cars! Like to push the boundaries but still be safe! Although I want this turbo to do very well, I also want it to be healthy and long lasting, to me that's more important!
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I think if recent results are anything to go by you should be looking at 330+ for sure.
I know Dan created the turbo to be a 'baby' hybrid, but it seems the larger turbine on stock sized compressor has really changed things! the 11 blade wheel design in yours should be pretty interesting, and the special housing has to be a good thing too!
All points in the right direction that's for sure!
I know Dan created the turbo to be a 'baby' hybrid, but it seems the larger turbine on stock sized compressor has really changed things! the 11 blade wheel design in yours should be pretty interesting, and the special housing has to be a good thing too!
All points in the right direction that's for sure!
It does look that way! Totally depends on the build of the car, ill log the car when it's been Run in and see the theoretical power it's running! Got some 550's going in when it's being mapped by bill so hopefully it won't max out like Russ's did. Testing is key, I've said to Dan and bill, they can have the car for testing whenever they please as it will be benefiting everyone ill be driving my mums lovely 1.25 fiesta that I actually couldn't hit 60mph! Gonna put some v-power in that bad boy.. Lol
ill be driving my mums lovely 1.25 fiesta that I actually couldn't hit 60mph! Gonna put some v-power in that bad boy.. Lol
Corrected for youIt does look that way! Totally depends on the build of the car, ill log the car when it's been Run in and see the theoretical power it's running! Got some 550's going in when it's being mapped by bill so hopefully it won't max out like Russ's did. Testing is key, I've said to Dan and bill, they can have the car for testing whenever they please as it will be benefiting everyone
cheers Rav! Will be good when it's finished! Was meant to do it all myself but couldn't get any more time off (that I was meant to have!!) so it's going in to Jody's to have majority of the work done! It was too late to book it in to bill by the time I found I couldn't have the time off and he was so busy anyhow, just about got some time for mapping, wideband and wmi! Thankful to Jody for putting up with me and all my pestering emails and calls lol! Going in tomorrow, will be trial fitting the sandwich plate too.
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Well I have an update! The cars in, already stripped the rear haldex and gearbox out ready for its new one.. But when I dropped it off, they had only started. Still I had a chance to test fit the new haldex bias plate by Andrew! Very very easy to fit.. From what I can see there is no modifications needed but will update that once the haldex unit is on the car itself. It doesn't seem to hot anything as its only near the prop shaft doughnut so should fit ok.. So without further due...
First thing I did was make sure that the thread was closed fully:
Then I marked this position with a green marker as closed to the left. I also set the lock nut and marked the thread between the lock nut and the big knob thingy so that If I ever lose the positioning, I can refer that the locknut was x turns away from the knob and that the thread is closed when the green markings line up to the left as such:
Next was a half way turn which was 2 and a half turns from closed
And again I green marked this, this time to the right
Then a further 2 and a half turns (which takes the markings back to the left) is fully open
Now already I can suggest that it would be better to have the inside thread stop when the hole is fully closed, instead it'll keep going in.. Only because for reference reasons it'll be simpler.. But this is totally fine! You will have to set the lock nut every time you adjust the bias, but as long as you mark on the thread as I've done here (not the best pic)
Then you will know that if I set the lock nut at that mark, and fully close it lining the markings to the left, it will be full 50/50. There's probably a better way but I just chose to be complicated
Here's some pics on how it looks fitted.. Best thing to do is use some elastic bands, fit it to the haldex unit with both gaskets and pop an elastic band around it so it doesn't fall apart. Then position it, and loose fit the bolts so you can then cut the elastic band and full tighten the haldex.. It's worth it since your saving loads if cash on a performance controller so no complaining lol!!
I will get better pics with it on the car to show clearances but I'm confidant it will fit with no problems..
First thing I did was make sure that the thread was closed fully:
Then I marked this position with a green marker as closed to the left. I also set the lock nut and marked the thread between the lock nut and the big knob thingy so that If I ever lose the positioning, I can refer that the locknut was x turns away from the knob and that the thread is closed when the green markings line up to the left as such:
Next was a half way turn which was 2 and a half turns from closed
And again I green marked this, this time to the right
Then a further 2 and a half turns (which takes the markings back to the left) is fully open
Now already I can suggest that it would be better to have the inside thread stop when the hole is fully closed, instead it'll keep going in.. Only because for reference reasons it'll be simpler.. But this is totally fine! You will have to set the lock nut every time you adjust the bias, but as long as you mark on the thread as I've done here (not the best pic)
Then you will know that if I set the lock nut at that mark, and fully close it lining the markings to the left, it will be full 50/50. There's probably a better way but I just chose to be complicated
Here's some pics on how it looks fitted.. Best thing to do is use some elastic bands, fit it to the haldex unit with both gaskets and pop an elastic band around it so it doesn't fall apart. Then position it, and loose fit the bolts so you can then cut the elastic band and full tighten the haldex.. It's worth it since your saving loads if cash on a performance controller so no complaining lol!!
I will get better pics with it on the car to show clearances but I'm confidant it will fit with no problems..
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it increases oil pressure that engages the haldex clutch, not really recommended running it with full or half bias for long periods of time so if you want you can go back to standard just twist of the knob anti clockwise 5 turns and you standard.
the haldex runs a temp sensor so if it gets to hot it shuts down but I'm also working on a oil capacity increase mod to help keep it cool
the design of the haldex bias valve is waiting for a patent
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If you have a damaged controller then this can compensate until you get a replacement controller.
Right guys sorry for the lack of updates.. It's been abit rocky here and there which I will explain later..
Picked the car up today after it has been ran in.. Seems nice and fine. Sounds like the cams are abit noisey bit I dunno if that's down to the ST exhaust valves or not.. On the way home from midland vw and the car seems like it's boosting like mad! N75 is turned off and it was flying!! I got abit concerned so I relaxed abit. Then I paid on the m6 toll, accelerated and it popped loudly from the exhaust! I pulled over immediately and checked everything was ok Which it seems fine, no smoke, no oil just timing is all over the place! Seems like the AGU pistons are having it's effect so I just crawled home after calling bill. I'm taking it in tomorrow early and leaving it with him for a while so will see how it goes.. I hope everything is ok, the garage seemed everything was fine with it? Oh one thing, the DP is rubbing on the prop shaft, I think with the manifold and turbo, the DP has moved across slightly causing the flex to hit the DP.. Not the best but that's relentless for you! I guess with a spacer plate I between the turbo and DP it might just push it over a little and it may be fine then, see what bill says about that. I didn't wanna push the car too much so I can't comment on the turbo, seems nice though! I'm on a night shift tonight and I havnt had a wink of sleep, so I'm sleeping for about 40 mins until a very hectic 24 hours! :|
Picked the car up today after it has been ran in.. Seems nice and fine. Sounds like the cams are abit noisey bit I dunno if that's down to the ST exhaust valves or not.. On the way home from midland vw and the car seems like it's boosting like mad! N75 is turned off and it was flying!! I got abit concerned so I relaxed abit. Then I paid on the m6 toll, accelerated and it popped loudly from the exhaust! I pulled over immediately and checked everything was ok Which it seems fine, no smoke, no oil just timing is all over the place! Seems like the AGU pistons are having it's effect so I just crawled home after calling bill. I'm taking it in tomorrow early and leaving it with him for a while so will see how it goes.. I hope everything is ok, the garage seemed everything was fine with it? Oh one thing, the DP is rubbing on the prop shaft, I think with the manifold and turbo, the DP has moved across slightly causing the flex to hit the DP.. Not the best but that's relentless for you! I guess with a spacer plate I between the turbo and DP it might just push it over a little and it may be fine then, see what bill says about that. I didn't wanna push the car too much so I can't comment on the turbo, seems nice though! I'm on a night shift tonight and I havnt had a wink of sleep, so I'm sleeping for about 40 mins until a very hectic 24 hours! :|
it looks like the pin of the new plate looks like it will hit the rear diff rubber doughnut on the last 2 photos or am I looking at it wrong
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cars here. wmi being fitted and widebanded as I type
mapping, if everything goes ok should be friday
mapping, if everything goes ok should be friday
Bill is on a roll! I seen how busy he is, so I fed him with his favourite.. And hopefully everything goes to plan! Can't thank him enough!
But yeah cars been done, slight rub on the propshaft but I will try and sort that out soon.. I'm gonna ask my dad to make me a spacer plate to move the relentless DP a couple of mm to stop it from hitting the prop.. That's if I can't sort it without..
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heat it, bash it, enjoy it
What exactly is being done Gops?
Wide band conversion, WMI, and custom mapping of the new spec hybrid?
What exactly is being done Gops?
Wide band conversion, WMI, and custom mapping of the new spec hybrid?
Haha I will do that only if nothing else sorts it! I'm sure my dad can make a little spacer.. Makes things bit easier! Sometimes I wish I had a DP made from bill, would of been well worth the money! Relentless have caused nothing but problems!
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Is it just the standard 3" relentless DP? I sorted mine by moving it over a few mm then used a small jubilee clip on the DP exhaust bracket to hold it in place. Works a treat.
Will try that westy cheers! Ill have a chance to get under the car this weekend so will play around with it to push it further right. Good news is ill be reporting live at Badger 5 HQ tomorrow
It's been abit of a slippery slope to this point, everything went smooth apart from a few problems with the head, but nothing that couldn't be fixed! Resulting in just the exhaust valves being supertech..
Had a new gearbox and clutch which might I add, is bluddy lovely! I actually prefer it than the OEM one! Just a better bite gives you more confidence in it! Had the rear trailer bushes changed with the haldex itself and it's planted like never before! Didn't fit the haldex plate as it fouled the prop doughnut so that's back with Andrew to redesign.
Meanwhile bill and mark have been busy with my car.. Had to pop 2 of my 18"s in with the car as the winter tyres probably aren't rated high enough for the dyno.
Oh and tuffty's engine is sexual.. Sorry tuffty if you find sex wee on it.. Lol all I can say is.. That turbo...!!!
It's been abit of a slippery slope to this point, everything went smooth apart from a few problems with the head, but nothing that couldn't be fixed! Resulting in just the exhaust valves being supertech..
Had a new gearbox and clutch which might I add, is bluddy lovely! I actually prefer it than the OEM one! Just a better bite gives you more confidence in it! Had the rear trailer bushes changed with the haldex itself and it's planted like never before! Didn't fit the haldex plate as it fouled the prop doughnut so that's back with Andrew to redesign.
Meanwhile bill and mark have been busy with my car.. Had to pop 2 of my 18"s in with the car as the winter tyres probably aren't rated high enough for the dyno.
Oh and tuffty's engine is sexual.. Sorry tuffty if you find sex wee on it.. Lol all I can say is.. That turbo...!!!
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Great thinking that ^^^^^
Good luck today as well, will be keeping an eye out for updates.
(Just have to say I totally admire the amount of work and changes your making on your S3 with it being around 185k miles IIRC?
I'm still in a split minds on whether to go rods and tfsi as I'm only round the corner from 200k! lol)
