R-Tech stage 2 plus. Is my car ready?

Will check the health of my current one and go from there I think. The classifieds one looks like a tfsi one but I could well be wrong mate.

I'm still going to have a look into proven upgrades for the system on ours.
 
Depending on cash flow and time frame, I would fit a surge tank/swirl pot and get the da-31. That way there is not strain on the OEM pump as it just flows round in a continuous loop with no real pressure in the system. DA-31 will draw the fuel from the surge tank and be doing all the hard work.

you basically need a aluminium or stainless steel container that will fit somewhere under the car. it needs 4 fittings on it.
1 for the fuel supply from OEM tank pump
1 for the return to the OEM tank
1 for the return from the fuel rail
and last one for the supply to da-31

the first 3 fittings I would fit near to top of the container and the fitting for the supply to da-31, should be a little bit up from the bottom of the container.

and don't forget a fuel filter between tank and inline pump. You don't want the new pump to get clogged or damaged by random bits.
 
What is the best option to go for on the fuel pump side.

Which in tank pump and if I get a good one do I also need an inline one?
 
Forge actuator purchased.
Bosch 550's ordered from US

Fuel pump needs to be tested still.
Also picked up a phenolic inlet manifold gasket too.
 
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audi upgrades
Hope youve ordered the 550's off a reputable company.
 
Id get them checked. Few lads on thw vag FB pages bought 550's off ebay from across the pond and they turned out to not be 550's.
 
Just to be on the safe side. Is anyone able to confirm the part no's of the correct / compatible ones?

Thanks
 
Bit of an update and delay
Had new paddle clutch fitted along with a phenolic inlet gasket.
Sourced some Bosch Motorsport 550cc injectors and a forge actuator.

But.

Signs of head gasket problem (caramac crap on oil cap) so bitten the billet and am getting a set of rifle drilled forged rods to have fitted at the same time.

Still planning custom map on K04 turbo but will have to get rods in and run in first now.
 
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One question that's sprung to mind.
The head gasket.

Is it best to use oem gasket or is there an uprated option available?
 
Pretty uncommon for head gaskets to go on 1.8T's , mayo on oil cap could be down to the cold weather.
 
sean_s3 said:
Pretty uncommon for head gaskets to go on 1.8T's , mayo on oil cap could be down to the cold weather.
Click to expand...
i agree, condensation fooling people.


Give it a long run where it gets nice and warm, mayo should dissapear.
you'd also have mayo or contaminent in the coolant bottle if you had issues.
 
audi upgrades
Done the long run and mayo lessens but is still there. Loosing a little water too. Only about 500ml a fortnight - three weeks.

Rods ordered now anyway so head gasket is still good excuse to the wife lol.

Hope head gasket is ok though so I can get Christmas out of the way before having it done.

Going to try and get a chance to pressure test the cylinders this week.
 
Same thing happened to me recently , losing a little coolant and mayo on the oil cap and dip stick but no obvious leak so I feared the worst.

Had a coolant pressure check done which highlighted a leak on a braided hose then a compression test done to put my mind at rest. The garage said HG is rare on our cars.
 
Yeah HG is rare.. Do you have a catch can? And does the water res have mayo?
 
Asking for help again lol.
When I fit rods I will be fitting new con rod bearings.

Am I best getting bearings at ends if crank shaft and oil seals changed too?
If so please can anyone tell me what I need to buy. Part no's or links would be great.
😃
 
Plans have changed.........

Rods still getting done plus a little bit more now.

Still could do with help on the above question.
 
g60leigh said:
Asking for help again lol.
When I fit rods I will be fitting new con rod bearings.

Am I best getting bearings at ends if crank shaft and oil seals changed too?
If so please can anyone tell me what I need to buy. Part no's or links would be great.
������
Click to expand...
I have changed the seals but the bearings were super smooth so i left them, on the few builds that i have seen they have all been fine, but obv check...
 
I will get seals ready and have the others checked. Can anyone help me with a part no please.
 
It's mad how things change on a daily basis! Happens to me now!! Lol.. Change everything that you can mate.. It's better now then taking it all apart again..
 
The way things are going I may have to do a build thread. Haha
 
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are you taking the box off? If so I would do all the main bearings as well as front and rear seals.
 
Scullies said:
are you taking the box off? If so I would do all the main bearings as well as front and rear seals.
Click to expand...

With my broken glass back and op on the 19th I won't be doing any of the work. I don't think he will be taking box off tho.
 
I have today taken delivery of this:

<a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/user/g60leigh/media/1D17698C-8D29-4E14-8560-10F8F217816F_zpszfpqow0u.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/g60leigh/1D17698C-8D29-4E14-8560-10F8F217816F_zpszfpqow0u.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 1D17698C-8D29-4E14-8560-10F8F217816F_zpszfpqow0u.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/user/g60leigh/media/42DEEC75-20B8-4656-815D-0D355CFF1879_zpsu3ca0dlm.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/g60leigh/42DEEC75-20B8-4656-815D-0D355CFF1879_zpsu3ca0dlm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 42DEEC75-20B8-4656-815D-0D355CFF1879_zpsu3ca0dlm.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/user/g60leigh/media/0695F21C-54C7-408E-A083-E6F4CD852198_zpsravbzcqm.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/g60leigh/0695F21C-54C7-408E-A083-E6F4CD852198_zpsravbzcqm.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 0695F21C-54C7-408E-A083-E6F4CD852198_zpsravbzcqm.jpg"/></a>

<a href="http://s103.photobucket.com/user/g60leigh/media/6A4854E0-1A0B-4BE7-BDC5-566C390E1315_zpsjyplceqc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i103.photobucket.com/albums/m141/g60leigh/6A4854E0-1A0B-4BE7-BDC5-566C390E1315_zpsjyplceqc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 6A4854E0-1A0B-4BE7-BDC5-566C390E1315_zpsjyplceqc.jpg"/></a>

http://www.turbodynamics.co.uk/shop...rbo-for-audi-s3-tt-and-leon-cupra-p-2728.html

Since I'm doing the rods and planning a custom map. It seems it would be rude not to add a hybrid turbo. Especially when I stumbled upon one with really low and at a good price (I think).

Opinions on wether I should fit at same time as getting the rods done or wait until rods have bedded in.

I understand the best thing to do is fit and run on actuator pressure (n75 disconnected) should I use the forge actuator I have sat in the garage or stick with the one already on it.
 
FYI, rear main seal requires box and clutch to be taken off and front main seal requires removal of crank gear. Also doing main bearings with the crank in the block won't be an easy job. I remember Bill managed to do them on Stacey's build, without removing the crank.
 
I should imagine his engine is coming out for a major build, madness trying to do all that in situ...

put your new turbo on at the same time leigh, old injectors, n75 unplugged..
 
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