Engine light in other words. Basically means 'wrong mixture' if it comes on, and your either running too lean or rich.
Closer to 0% the better.
Engine light in other words. Basically means 'wrong mixture' if it comes on, and your either running too lean or rich.
Closer to 0% the better.
Its not necessarily down to how much pressure you've got, you might run rich and have too much fuel, not enough air. That could be faulty MAF or a leak.
Usually though yes, at the point where fuel requested and fuel actual start to drift apart, you'll miss fire and need more fuel-air ratio. to stop the car from running too lean.
Or you could tame the map...
I've just fitted this kit today, but I didn't have the right sized socket for the bolts that you use to fit the heat shield.
I was just keen to know that this should be ok without the heat shield to run for a little bit?
I need to use the car to get the socket for the bolts.
I was just keen to know that this should be ok without the heat shield to run for a little bit?
I need to use the car to get the socket for the bolts.
S88 YRS
Registered User
Is this how you removed the plastic toothed nuts that are in already? Did you destroy the plastic ones in the process?
So you just replaced them with some M8 bolts? I thought you had from looking at your first picture, but couldn't be sure.
It feels quicker already, waiting on my shark map to arrive, but it looks like Monday before it gets sent back!
Removing those 'jagged plastic things' <----(technical term right there) is VERY deceptive!!
The front two simply unscrew, so you'd think the same for the rear 2. Incorrect.
Theres a 10mm nut underneath to undo for each one. Then they will simply unscrew.
I found this out the hard way by destroying mine
, but easily replaced if i went back to standard.Then just replaced with proper nuts and bolts as you can do them up much tighter, which is important, as heat shields can rattle if not done up well.
I used fairly large washers and stepped down to a smaller one to spread the load better.
Hope this helps.
Removing those 'jagged plastic things' <----(technical term right there) is VERY deceptive!!
The front two simply unscrew, so you'd think the same for the rear 2. Incorrect.
Theres a 10mm nut underneath to undo for each one. Then they will simply unscrew.
I found this out the hard way by destroying mine
Then just replaced with proper nuts and bolts as you can do them up much tighter, which is important, as heat shields can rattle if not done up well.
I used fairly large washers and stepped down to a smaller one to spread the load better.
Hope this helps.
Right, so do they unscrew by hand easily once the nut has been removed- cancelling out the need to find a socket to fit over the jagged plastic things?
Cheers buddy.
Yes they aren't hard to get off once you've undone the nuts.
Some big pliers just to get the turn started. WD40 perhaps if its a little stiff, just avoid over spray on the manifold, else you may be smokin' a little when warm until it burns off!
You do not need a socket, not even sure there is one for it in say Halfrauds? But either way, a pointless purchase when you'll no doubt have pliers.
I'll fit it for you if your close, be happy to talk 8P.
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Right - first off - you are a legend sir!
I rang Matt earlier ( I think I woke him up to be fair ), and he said I needed an oversized socket to get them off. Many trips to my local tool outlet and even one to Halfords - I found you can't get a 26mm socket off the shelf, which is what it seemed to be.
After quickly nipping back out, I undid the nut on the back of the plastic jagged things, then my mole-grips actually managed to turn the thing )this time without being in danger of rounding the damn things off!).
Both came out without a fuss, so I turned them upside down, put a larger washer over each one, then the heat shield, then the nut off the back.
It was so much easier being able to do them up from this side, and now all is well.
I think I'll spray the TT cover matt black like I saw on another thread when I get time.
Thread ressurection...
I'm quite interested in 1 of these... so you would all recommend 1 then...
and 1 other question.. what is that pipe on the left hand side of yuleys3's thats not on mjr901's original pics??
I'm quite interested in 1 of these... so you would all recommend 1 then...
and 1 other question.. what is that pipe on the left hand side of yuleys3's thats not on mjr901's original pics??
iv just had this fitted, and yes id recommend this for the budget price, but if you have like £275 then id get the AS AMD intake, which is meant to nearly be on par with revo's, but for £170 u cant go wrong with these really.
Its the DV re-circ pipe, I had mine running a blow off valve. Hence no need for said pipe. I've now put it back again now
Good piece of kit.
Fairly important to read some of what I wrote above too.
The bolt that fixes it to the right of the engine comes as an Allen fixing. (rubbish)
Now normally this would be fine, however unlike the ITG that comes with a support bracket further up, this doesn't.
So the weight of it is supported by this one fixing.
So to get it properly fixed you do need a hex bolt instead.
The allen one comes loose after a short time as you start rounding it off before you have it tight enough.
Mine be hasn't budged at all now.
Also, no trimming of pipes necessary.
The system should sit level like mine in the pictures.
ITG filter is the best option if I'm honest, yes a little expensive, but still the best looking and it completely fills the space behind the headlight
The bolt that fixes it to the right of the engine comes as an Allen fixing. (rubbish)
Now normally this would be fine, however unlike the ITG that comes with a support bracket further up, this doesn't.
So the weight of it is supported by this one fixing.
So to get it properly fixed you do need a hex bolt instead.
The allen one comes loose after a short time as you start rounding it off before you have it tight enough.
Mine be hasn't budged at all now.
Also, no trimming of pipes necessary.
The system should sit level like mine in the pictures.
ITG filter is the best option if I'm honest, yes a little expensive, but still the best looking and it completely fills the space behind the headlight
Fairly important to read some of what I wrote above too.
The bolt that fixes it to the right of the engine comes as an Allen fixing. (rubbish)
Now normally this would be fine, however unlike the ITG that comes with a support bracket further up, this doesn't.
So the weight of it is supported by this one fixing.
So to get it properly fixed you do need a hex bolt instead.
The allen one comes loose after a short time as you start rounding it off before you have it tight enough.
Mine be hasn't budged at all now.
Also, no trimming of pipes necessary.
The system should sit level like mine in the pictures.
ITG filter is the best option if I'm honest, yes a little expensive, but still the best looking and it completely fills the space behind the headlight
yeah mate, had a good look over the whole thread and I liked the look of it... I'm only wanting to take my car top end stage 1 or low end stage 2 so it looks ideal to me... Saved the guys number and gonna txt him later.... Do you think ts a good idea to get this fitted before I get the map done and run it for a week or two 1st.... That way any changes to ecu can be mapped for the config im running instead of fitting this stuff afterwards?
Yup, get it on before the map, then map.
Don't really need to give it long to learn really, it will respond much better straight away.
The only reason for trim was to get the filter in, im sure if i used a diffrent one it would be great but here what mine looks like.Also, no trimming of pipes necessary.
The system should sit level like mine in the pictures.
ITG filter is the best option if I'm honest, yes a little expensive, but still the best looking and it completely fills the space behind the headlight
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
As you can see the filter was too big to go horizontal so had to trim pipe and angle it down.
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
CAI ordered tonight
Had quite a lengthy chat with Matt... nice guy, really helpful and are really looking forward to getting this fitted now...
thanks for the responses...
What colour tho!?
Matt black.... Not too interested in colours in the engine bay... Functionality over looks for me now, getting old..
TTS cover will be ordered soon aswell and that will be sprayed matt black also.... Stealthy engine bay and doesnt look that bad when dirty
TTS cover will be ordered soon aswell and that will be sprayed matt black also.... Stealthy engine bay and doesnt look that bad when dirty
a few people only use paper, one being the badger5 guy (following on facebook) and he was saying hes seen some damage caused by other filters than paper in his garage. Which is lucky for me being a cheapskate and buying a S2000 one lol.
Apparently the oil can get onto the MAF sensor? not sure whatelse it can do.
Apparently the oil can get onto the MAF sensor? not sure whatelse it can do.
Spoke to Matt at MTC tonight again and he says its prob just best dry...
Used to have a YZ125 and used to oil the filter on that... But if that bike didnt come back filthy then I was doing something wrong! Haha
Used to have a YZ125 and used to oil the filter on that... But if that bike didnt come back filthy then I was doing something wrong! Haha
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If you use oil,you're likely to mess up the MAF,as it may become coated,and send dodgy figures to the ECU.
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Yesterday i measured the air intake flow rate and got 267g/s with it (stage 2 Shark, 16deg outside). So its up there with the 'big boys', which is good.
Did some more logging on the intake today.
The Long Term Fuel Trims.
+4.7%, Again very good.
Some more values (pinched from VWVortex) that need to be added to...
Stock Intake: Fuel Trims from +0 to +5% - Safe
APR Carbonio: +0 to +8% - Safe
Forge WINtake: +10 to +25% - CEL Possible
Forge TWINtake: +5 to +15% - CEL Unlikely
EVOMs Intake: +0 to +~5% - Safe
CTS Turbo Intake: +0 to +~5% - Safe
Neuspeed P-Flo Intake: +0 to +~8% - Safe
VWR Intake: +5 to +20% - CEL Possible
VWR Intake (Post-Warranty Modification): +0 to ~8% - CEL Unlikely
Volant Intake: +0 to +~5% - Safe
Injen Intake: +5 to +20% - CEL Possible
BSH Intake: +0 to ~10% - CEL Unlikely
you cannot compare and judge performance on airflows...
Reason why is the maf tube is not the same as std, nor others, and the sensor position is not the same inside the tube. this one places the sensor too far into the tube close to the other side of the tube.
Check your 032 fueling adaptions and report back what they say after some driving.
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Good point.
A lot of people are getting focussed on airflow,and as you point out,not taking into account other things such as placement of the MAF,and tubing diameters and restrictions etc etc.
I've got one of the original ITGs on mine,which was fitted after Stg3 to replace the original CAI,and despite being one of the "older" devices on the market,flow has never been a problem,even with the sort of turbo,and boost levels being run through it.
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example below... of some testing I did on my tfsi cupra on an intake swap.
and after fiddling with the revo fueling it did this with the revo/b5 hybrid intake on it
I turned it back to previous settings afterwards.. was just curious as to what it would do with just fueling change from 6 to 9. Now I know - lol.. and reverted it again.
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dry foam filters in my experience allow dust to migrate thru.
I would'nt oil a foam filter personally as it seems to get sucked out too easily and onto the maf sensor down stream.
the most effective coating I have seen was RamAirs polymer coating as it was physically sticky so not sucked out of the filter itself.
Its been on long enough now to get a proper long term fuel trim value I think now.
With the MTC i can report the reading of +8.6%.
isnt that a kind of near bad reading lol... thought its meant to be under 5% for a good one
even to i have no idea what any of this even means.
From what I've heard you add your short term fuel trims and long term fuel trims to get real time readings, so its actually sitting at +3.1% (STFT -5.5)
aka groovy baby...
