BAM S3 full rebuild for Hybrid or BT

Cheers buddy:)
well for every one else.....the saga continues

Ring gaping




followed by plastigauging the big end oil clearance



All within spec so on to clocking the rings and sliding the pistons into their respective bores


New oil pump c/w new pick up line and chain tensioner



the white numbers is for main cap order and which orientation

New front and rear crank oil seal flange


This one was a pita to fit due to the inward fold of the seal that surrounds the flywheel mount. The fold has to be folded over the flywheel mount without getting caught and being bent back on itself. Had to remove the engine stand in the end as it kept folding outward rather than inward.

Sump on and sealed



ARP head stud kit in


Any body with experience with this head stud kit know if you gotta re-torque the nuts after a couple hundred miles?

And because I could lol
 
My advice with the studs it to double check anyway but install them after you fit the head as it will be very hard in situ in the bay
 
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I'll be throwing the engine back in the bay with the head on as it's easier for me. Same way it came out:)
 
Just wanted to let potential people who will be re building there motors that Permatex assembly lube is awesome!! Poured some into the oil pump gear chamber and oil pump chain to eliminate metal to metal pumping will the oil pump primes itself during the first start.
Highly recommended:)
On a different note, what engine oil are engine builders on here using to run in the new motor?
cheers
 
10w40mineral for first start and running, then 10w40 semi for rest of running in, then whatevers suited to the motors spec thereafter
 
Cheers Bill
how long you recommend the "running in" process for and the stages of the mineral oil then semi?
Cheers
 
audi upgrades
Thinking 100 miles for the mineral oil then 500 for semi?
then fully syth there after
presuming my engine last 500 miles lol
 
have you fitted the head studs yet. Im curious to see how the nut sits as with the bolt version the head of the bolt sits inside a recess in the head.
 
The Stud kit has a counter sunk nut which is a star head. Haven't got the head back yet. Been told it's this week but I'm back out to Kuwait mid week so will have to wait:(
Ill post pics of me nuts if u like :hubbahubba: Lol
 
I based my running in on that guide bill linked. Everyone has their own methods but this is what i did:

10w40 mineral oil (cheapest i could find, got it from Wilkos)

N75 disconnected. Freshly built engine, started it and immediately drove it round the block a few times. Stopping (but not shutting it off) after each lap to check for leaks as it came up to temperature. Once it reached 90 degrees and i was satisfied the stat had opened i stopped and checked the coolant and oil levels were acceptable. Then took it out on the road.

I figured out a route which was about 25miles long, but out in the country on open roads where i wasnt going to get stuck in traffic or at lights etc, and i started doing pulls thru the rev range, starting at 50% throttle and going from about 2k to 4k in third, then lifting and letting it coast back down thru the revs in gear and driving gently for a minute or so before the next pull, and slowly increasing throttle angle and RPM's with each pull. After about 10-15miles i was doing full throttle 2k to 6k pulls, and did these at sensible intervals as the road allowed on the way home, coasting back down the revs each time.

After this i got home and changed the oil, which looked like glitter which worried me a bit, but it seems to have had no lasting effects! I changed the oil again using the same 10w40 mineral oil at 100miles, then 250, 500 and 750 before switching to fully synth at around 1000 and reconnecting the N75 at the same time.

After the first 25miles i just drove the car normally. I avoided steady state running as much as possible (ie just sitting on the motorway at 70mph for an hour...) however it did get some of that and i just tried to vary the load as much as possible.

I suspect you could easily switch to fully synth and full boost at 500miles.
 
I followed that link too but te problem comes when you have a great big air lock that you have to clear before going out on the road. My motor was running in the garage for a while so I could clear the air an get the coolant sorted.
 
I've obviously been lucky as i've never had an airlock on these engines. Fill coolant, wait till it vanishes, fill coolant, wait till it vanishes, repeat continuously for a couple of hours as your doing the rest of the buttoning up steps and thats it. Start, drive. I typically dont even need to top it up after.

I suspect if you try to glug all the coolant in in one go, minutes before starting it, then your going to have issues, as due to the stat being closed it takes ages to seep all round the engine, so you end up with a motor thats actually only half full.
 
Yea ive read that before when i was running in my bike.
But run in a new engine and gearbox hard ie brand new car and the gearbox will pay the price imho
But my gearbox is old so will prob run it hard:)
plenty of power on/off with engine braking and fresh filter at 500miles and again 1K will be the ticket me thinks
 
I changed the filter with the oil every time.

The amount of crap in the oil the first twice it was dropped out theres no way i'd be wanting to keep that filter in there any longer.
 
I get specail prices at tps for me:)
keep forgetting to buy a magnetic sump plug, ive put it on my list!
Was also gonna try and port the standard exhaust manifold as thats starting to crack so ive nothing to loose if i trash it lol, as i want to run the engine back in with the KO4 before running more power.
 
Good call there Bill as was gonna order one.
They look aluminium due to being anodised so will be soft as ****e and will prob strech after the first use
 
Westy said:
I followed that link too but te problem comes when you have a great big air lock that you have to clear before going out on the road. My motor was running in the garage for a while so I could clear the air an get the coolant sorted.
Click to expand...

I have found its easier to fill the block with coolant via the coolant reservoir, then remove the upper radiator hose and keep it as high as possible, then fill the radiator up with coolant. I use a funnel attached to a piece of hose that fits over the radiator fitting. Fill it up, then quickly fit the radiator hose back on, its messy but works every time.

Last thing you want to do is to over heat the engine while the radiator is empty :crying:
 
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hoffmanvp3 said:
Good call there Bill as was gonna order one.
They look aluminium due to being anodised so will be soft as ****e and will prob strech after the first use
Click to expand...

the ECS one i had was steel, so it eats through the sump thread very easily.
I have welded a AN o-ring boss onto the sump and fitted the o-ring AN fitting. No leaks and its not so easy to cross thread an AN fitting.
 
We'll look what turned up in the mail today :)


Pipewerx 3" down pipe and sports cat, going Hybrid as where moving in dec and can't afford a whole Garrett kit due to solicitor fees and the missus is going mad with the S3 build which I'm really gutted but a hybrid KO4 will get the car close to what I want and maybe in the future I'll go Garrett. Just need the LOBA320 and I'll be happy with that
 
It's a Hybrid stage 4 KO4 LOBA offer for the 8L S3.
Spoke to beach buggy but he's still working on the kit. Think he said the AC pipe work gets in the way but can't remember.
His set up will cost more than I've got left so making the most with of what I have left:(
 
I'm aware the limiting factor of this turbo choice is the manifold but I'll see if I can port it.
 
yea read it, some very good results there but dont have WMI and i must admit im a bit sheepish getting it after reading posts of people with leaking nrv`s in the AEM kit
 
hoffmanvp3 said:
yea read it, some very good results there but dont have WMI and i must admit im a bit sheepish getting it after reading posts of people with leaking nrv`s in the AEM kit
Click to expand...

buy the right kit then dude :)
Devils Own, basic kit + solenoid upgrade
thats what I am using now.

AEM sadly have gone down the pan in terms of whats being sold and reliability issues on check valves and controllers.. Shame as it was an excellent spec kit for the £

If you do go hybrid based turbo, WMI will enable it to achieve good results. Heat Management on anything k04 based is key
 
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Good plan there lol
Ill have a look into the Devils own kit and see:)
Just dont want my fmic full of meth when i start it in the morn:(......BOOM YA ******* lol
 
Chap, it would appear you have your wires very much crossed and heading in totally differernt directions on the wrong tracks....

The Loba turbo you speak of, the horribly over priced one, is ko4-023 fitment. Beachbuggy already offer a direct alternative, and have done for a very long time, I'd also place bets on it being better than the over priced Loba one.

The kit you speak of that Dan questions AC pipe clearence, is an entirely different project using a turbo from a TFSI engine the K04 064, which is in no way related to a k04-023, and not all linked in any way to the Loba 320 and Beachbuggy ko4 023 hybrids.

You really would be somewhat crazy to buy the Loba one given what's available closer to home for half the cost....
 
Oh believe me i was very much eating my own cake last night when i found that BBT hybrid and Bills mapping results from his Hybrid.
Ive emailed BBT but havent had a reply yet as i couldnt belive the cost difference between the LOBA and BBT.
Will deff be going for the BBT hybrid now but just waiting for him to reply
 
Well had a very nice conversation with Dan and have ordered the K418t Hybrid but hes having to source a new unit for me though as mines cracked right through the hot side so no point investing into a nackered unit
 
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