Remote Central locking

Jay A3

Jay A3

#because Racecar
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Looking for some advice on upgrading my key. I currently have the single key with no remote. I would like to have the flip style with the 2 button remote.

I Read the link below (thanks Tom)
http://www.vwaudiforum.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?7457-B5-A4-Central-Locking-FAQ/page3

This helped explain what central locking unit I had and what unit I need.

"8L0 862 257 early model remote c/l pump, has limited functions e.g wont operate door pin led's or flash indicators on unlock
8L0 862 257 'A' early model non remote
8L0 862 257 'H' 98-99 non remote pump
8L0 862 257 'G' 98-99 remote c/l pump uses 2 button remote fob
8L0 862 257 'P' 99+ facelift model pump, all facelift have remote c/l and so behaves oddly if you use the key to open door (drivers door only will unlock untill you turn ign. on) they also use a different siren (batt back up type) so arent compatable with earlier cars"

I had a look and found that my CLM was 8L0 862 257 H which is the non remote.

According to the above I need the 8L0 862 257 G module.

Now i Managed to find one and tried to connect it today. Located in the rear quarter I disconnected the Two air line pipes and 3 electrical plugs

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Thought I'd try and swap the units over to see what would happen. The module works! Unfortunately that was it. I could hear the pump going, pin locks going up and down, alarm goes mental and the front windows drop down.

Keys and remotes had no effect. Only way to stop the alarm was to disconnect the "G" module.

I read that I may need to soft code this new module in using vagcom. (Complete amateur at vcds)

I didn't know if there was a correct procedure to change this over without the alarm going constantly?? Hopefully once this is installed I can look into remote keys!
 
Check original units coding in the correct module in vcds, then click coding. write the number down.
Fit new unit, check coding is the same, if not check and erase fault codes, then in coding enter the same as original units coding, or use the pop up info to work out a new code.

Once coded Id suggest closing and locking car for a minute then open and check operation of central locking. if it functions normally you could probably have a new remote key programmed to work. If the alarm plays up still check error codes, it may continue to play up untill a new remote is coded. Unfortuately i dont know all the answers here, but im keen to see this solution working and possibly offer a retrofit to others :D
 
Seems straight forward. Once I get vag com up and running I will log the current unit details. Then try and swap the units over in a more appropriate area (don't fancy upsetting all my neighbours with the constant alarm going off)
 
Not much success today. Connected vagcom to the car today and got the soft code from my current module.

After a few discussions with Tom the plan was to copy the current central locking code onto the new module (vcds/select module/35-central locking)

Tried the new "G" module today. Plugged it all in and the motor went mental. It kept locking and unlocking, the motor was working double time. Plugged vcds in and kept getting a no Response / connection from module. Plugged the original unit back in and it read in vcds straight away (confirms that the vagcom is working) this now leaves either the module is not compatible or the module is faulty. Now on the hunt for another "G" module to test!
 
Sorry jay, didnt have time in the end to come over, was still sat in that ibiza till gone 9 ripping out the failed clifford alarm! Simple dash swap we thought, nothing ever is simple when buying problem cars !!
Feel free to cal round thursday/friday though :D
 
No worries mate.
Didn't have much joy yesterday so doubt it would have been a positive visit anyway. Will give you a bell when I'm local. On the meantime the hunt continues for a new module
 
Update

Sourced another "G" module from the local breakers. £20 including 2 keys from the car it came off... Not a bad price.

Swapped the modules over and was ready to soft code it in using vagcom. RESULT! I didn't need to soft code anything. The new module worked straight away with my current aftermarket remote. Doors locked and unlocked as it did before. Only difference is this new module should support and use OE remotes.

Ordered some new cr1620 batteries in hope that the OE remotes will work off the bat. If not then a little re-programming is required.

Hopefully it does meaning I can have OE flip keys and also get rid of this silly aftermarket remote / unit.
 
Ok... So new unit has been working fine but not with the oem remotes. I scanned it with vagcom at the garage and tried to manually re-program the remotes but no joy. Looking at the 35 - central lock I could only see channels 1-4. Anything above was "error" came to the conclusion the aftermarket remote unit installed maybe interfering with the OE system so I disconnected it. Still no joy same thing happened.

Met Tom up (@udi a3) and he had a go. Initially came up with the same problem as me. Remotes wouldn't program in. Ended up taking my unit out and swapping it into his a3. Worked straight away and he programmed the remote in there. Dropped the module back into mine and nothing... Vcds plugged back in and watching block 4 there was a glimmer of hope. Only happened once but when Tom pressed the remote and the block changed from 0 to 1 meaning the module recognised the action.

Didn't happen again but I remembered that my car had been waterlogged in that area a while back due to a leak from the rear wiper. The plugs are a little corroded (tried to clean it with contact cleaner) it worked but was intermittent. Tom is 95% sure it's the plugs so this weekend I will be replacing the plugs.
 
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I will have a look, but from memory all that is located down there is the module with 3 plugs and 2 vac lines everything else is situated above.
 
I pinched a spare set of plugs from the scrappy if you need them, was thinking about making a bench loom to reprogram modules without pulling my car apat in the future!!
 
Thanks Tom, I should have a set at the garage already. A work bench would be handy, the yellow vac pipe of yours looks fragile at the moment so best to avoid taking it apart each time for testing
 
Saturday has been and gone!
Found the plugs

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What the corroded plugs looked like
null_zps966aed2f.jpg


Had a go at soldering and I was crap at it. Got the job done in the end, just took a while...

The remote that tom programmed in when I last saw him works! Open and unlocks as it should. Indicators don't flash and windows do not go up and down when the button is pressed. Might need to be coded in??

The other issued is the range of the remote. The remote only works when I stand directly behind the boot, module side.

The conclusion - remote antenna...??
Is there one if so where is it located? I need to compare the wiring setup of mine compared to an a3 with a remote as standard. Maybe its something as simple as connecting a wire and extended the antenna?

I need to source wiring diagrams... Can anyone help?

Much appreciated!
 
Yeh I will look into that... On the hunt for wiring diagrams
 
Cheers Scott, I'm hoping it's just tapping off another wire
 
audi upgrades
Thanks Scott.

When It stops raining I will have a look a the module and check plug C. (Smaller black plug) according to danio the part number I might need if aerial is required is 8L0 900 433

null_zps9804673e.png
 
Again I googled the part from the thread I posted up. The only site that seems to sell it is from Germany
 
This is good stuff, another member had the same issue recently when i programmed the remote on a scrapyard sourced pump, range is good on my car, but put on their car and was pants. hopefully he reads this and does the same!
 
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Found a spare "C" plug that had come from an a3 with a remote.

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The difference I can see is the addition of the thick black wire. Which looks like the it could be the aerial

Opened it up and I can confirm they this black wire connects to pins 1 and 7 of plug C

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null_zpsec066a42.jpg


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I now need to find out how long the aerial is, what the route is, how long and is there anything on the other end??

If not then maybe I can just extend the aerial if I can get the same wire..
 
Success!

@udi a3 kindly went to a scrap yard and found an a3 with this aerial. All it is, is an extension of the black coaxial cable in the pic above. It is approx 0.5m long. Connected to the existing spare plug I had to hand.

In the car and worked straight away. I have fully tested the range but 10ft and it worked fine.

Following that tom started on programming the new transponder chips to the keys and then the new non genuine remotes. Made it look so easy...

The remotes feel and look good, I went for the 8P style remote

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Tom even coded in so that the windows go up and down when the button is held, and the indicators flash when locked or unlocked. All that is left is the keys being cut which again tom is arranging for me.

Happy now the remote all works...

Great service from @udi A3, I couldn't be happier with the result!!!
 
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Either the novelty has worn off or Scott drives too sensibly to get pulled over so he can get a reaction from the police when they see the screwdriver in the ignition
 
That screwdrivers pretty good, but it has no remote... i think it should be a custom moulded stubby handle with an old remote board fitted...
 
jojo said:
Not happy with your screwdriver?
Click to expand...

Its not very pocket friendly.

Jay A3 said:
Either the novelty has worn off or Scott drives too sensibly to get pulled over so he can get a reaction from the police when they see the screwdriver in the ignition
Click to expand...

I tried but cops just arnt interested in me any more.

@udi A3 said:
That screwdrivers pretty good, but it has no remote... i think it should be a custom moulded stubby handle with an old remote board fitted...
Click to expand...

Send me a spare board and I'll see what I can do.
 
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