Prawn and BigAls A3 Track Car

Cheers chaps :)

Will hopefully get some day light pictures tomorrow once it's back down on the deck, it's designed to by 75mm off the ground, hopefully I'll be close :laugh:
 
Would love to get a measurement of downforce it gives and the wing. hhm cornerweight scales infront of a couple of dyno fans? lol.
 
A couple of MAP sensors, a 5v source, a volt meter and a bit of maths should be able to give a rough idea of the down-force you're getting. Either that or get all posh put some strain gauges in the supports.

Looks awesome Nick, nice job. Only thing I'd suggest would be to add a curved piece into the bottom of the joint between the sides of the splitter and the upright bits enclosing the wheels, so as to add a fillet into that corner. Should help keep the turbulence down a touch. Nothing to back that up, it just makes a lot of sense in my head, and should be pretty damn easy to do.
 
Makes sense tbh. Adding in what Robin says could be beneficial. Bit like an additional cannard at the bottom so air isnt hitting what would be basically a wall. Air is going to be pushing against the end fence causing a little airbrake but adding in an angled piece would make the air push down on it creating more downforce and also allows airflow to be directed over the wheel well hopefully.

Or im babbling sh!te lol
 
Jason.s said:
Makes sense tbh. Adding in what Robin says could be beneficial. Bit like an additional cannard at the bottom so air isnt hitting what would be basically a wall. Air is going to be pushing against the end fence causing a little airbrake but adding in an angled piece would make the air push down on it creating more downforce and also allows airflow to be directed over the wheel well hopefully.

Or im babbling sh!te lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's pretty much what I was thinking, it should help prevent stagnation, and give the airflow over that area a defined direction, hopefully reducing turbulence, without reducing down-force. Plus, it'd be really easy and wouldn't take very long to do, gotta be worth a shot surely?
 
Nah that makes sense.

I cut the airdam out to fit first off and it fitted the bumper really nicely, but now that it's all fitted finally there's a bit of a gap at the back edge where the ends don't quite follow the curve.

I'm thining about making a new air dam that widens out at the bottom that could effectively flow into the side panels almost.

When I attached the vertical panels to the arch, I left the little return lip on the back edge of the bumper, so the panels are actually angled back by about 15 degees too so it's not a sheer brick wall for the air, just almost :p

All work in progress, but I'm happy with how it's looking so far.

the big test though is going to be getting it down on the floor tonight and seeing exactly what height it sits at.

Measurements suggest 75mm clearance, but that is likely to drop to 60-65 on track with the slicks fitted!

Time will tell i guess, will be taking some spare thread bar, jig saw, and a drill to Spa incase we need lunch time alternations!
 
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You going to make a complete flat floor eventually Prawn, a la Mr Pinder style? A nice big fat diffuser would finish the rear off :yes:
 
Lewis583 said:
You going to make a complete flat floor eventually Prawn, a la Mr Pinder style? A nice big fat diffuser would finish the rear off :yes:
Click to expand...

You're damn right I am :)



New boots went on tonight too :)

 
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Shame about the trip to go and get meth, and me puking. Flat shifting, DSG beating Renaults FTW.
 
you boys need to be in rainy Devon, got a huge supply of meth here :p
 
So anyway unless i missed it which i dont think i did?

The details about the box were quickly brushed aside and not really explained. I take it it has a diff in it? Did you buy it with the diff already fitted or have to buy a new diff to put in it?
 
badger5 said:
lol it is..
you are making yourself a Morgan car now? yee olde woode car
Classic.
it could catch on.
:)
Click to expand...

It could do you know :laugh:

There is logic though.

Ebay motors run a plywood splitter in the BTCC:



And my car is build from 90% genuine ebay parts, so it made sense to stick with team spec :racer:
 
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Prawn said:
Ebay motors run a plywood splitter in the BTCC:
And my car is build from 90% genuine ebay parts, so it made sense to stick with team spec :racer:
Click to expand...

So a RWD conversion it is to stick with team spec? ;-) lol

I'm off to the BTCC on the 13th at Brands so I'll keep an eye out for any spare parts :)
 
Would be a good idea to fit some sacrificial "skid plates" to the underside of the splitter at the leading edge Prawn. Will prevent wear to the ply and they can be easily swappable, saves having to keep making new splitters :thumbsup:
 
audi upgrades
Jason.s said:
So anyway unless i missed it which i dont think i did?

The details about the box were quickly brushed aside and not really explained. I take it it has a diff in it? Did you buy it with the diff already fitted or have to buy a new diff to put in it?
Click to expand...

You didn't miss it mate, I've just been crazy busy, kept meaning to write it up, then more happened!

So, as we all know, I blew an inner CV joint within 100 yards of R-tech on the new map.

I then went to Castle Combe and had a great time.

the next day, I test fitted my slicks, pictures on previous pages, and again here, because I like it:



I had a little drive around a private industrial area near me, opened the throttle just a tiny bit, once, and BANG.

Another CV dead. I think the one I got from niki was probably well past it's best, having been used on his 400bhp golf with Hoosier drag radials to wind it up.

! of the 3 rollers on the inner joint had collapsed, causing this:



Another dead CV - YouTube

So another shaft was fitted, AGAIN!

After that, I decided that travelling all the way to Belgium, and running the slicks at Spa, was probably going to result in more driveshaft failure.

A few phone calls to a few mates and various people, and I found a low mileage, late FZQ LCR gearbox for sale, fitted with a peloquin ATB LSD from Alex kerr at AKS. A deal was struck, and Mylo picked it up for me and brought it down to Clive at CN tuning in Bracknell for me.

A deal was done with Clive against some 6 speed parts and my old 5 speed box, and the agreed use of his workshop to do the conversion in the evenings after work, and everything was underway.

the only thing remaining was a clutch, another of the big reasons I'd been holding off going 6 speed previously.

As it happens, my mate Adam had a brand new 02M SMF kit with a 6 paddle ceramic plate, I made him a cheeky offer and he accepted, so that was done.

Now, I'll be honest, it's a top of the range £550 'drag spec' kit. I know their reputation is questionable at times, but I have heard many good things as well as bad, and Westy has been running the next one 'down' from this for a long time in his 4wd torque monster, so I figured it was worth a punt.
 
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Lewis583 said:
Would be a good idea to fit some sacrificial "skid plates" to the underside of the splitter at the leading edge Prawn. Will prevent wear to the ply and they can be easily swappable, saves having to keep making new splitters :thumbsup:
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Definitely mate.

I think as a temp for this trip I'm going attach some little steel strips to act as skids, although long term I quite like the idea of little titanium blocks so it sparks :laugh:

Only question is: how to attach them?

the last thing I want is to use wood screws in the under side, and have them rip out under braking and go straight through a brand new tyre.

if I used araldite to bond them on, do we think they'd have a hope in hell of staying put on first contact?

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.

Any thoughts guys? I'd rather avoid bolting straight through and ahving visable fixings on the top.
 
Prawn said:
Now, I'll be honest, it's their top of the range £550 'drag spec' kit. I know their reputation is questionable at times, but I have heard many good things as well as bad, and Westy has been running the next one 'down' from this for a long time in his 4wd torque monster, so I figured it was worth a punt.
Click to expand...

I have the next one 'down' from Westys kit and I haven't had any issues with the SMF conversion since it was fitted around January this year and after a couple of months I haven't been holding back in how she's been used either.
 
Prawn said:
A few phone calls to a few mates and various people, and I found a low mileage, late FZQ LCR gearbox for sale, fitted with a peloquin ATB LSD from Alex kerr at AKS. A deal was struck
Click to expand...

Alex does love his Peloquin diffs lol.
 
Always good to hear Kwistof :)

A few pics from CN tuning, massive thanks to Clive for letting me use the workshop and everything for the whole night, having 2 of us working on it and 2 heads to work around problems made things so much easier! Top man!







the 6 spd kit ready to go in:




Box and flywheel off, IE friction disc on the end of the crank awaiting the new SMF:



SMF on:



Cleaning up the clutch plate:





Installing:



then it all got a bit stressful, I set myself on fire at 02:30 grinding down the gearbox cable bracket, so we called it a night. Got home at 0310.

Finished it off the next day:



The end :laugh:

I wouldn't have attempted this one on my drive with the timescales involved before Spa, but Clive was adamant we could get it done, so top man, thanks for all your help!
 
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Looking good, have a great time at spa!

Does this mean you are running the LSD that came in the new box or gone back to your quaife diff? Are they same kind of diff or work in different ways.
 
I'm running the Peolquin LSD that came in the new 02M box mate, they're different Diffs fitment wise, although work in a similar way.

Whether it performs differently on track or not i'll find out on Wednesday!
 
I'd suggest using some countersunk allen head bolts, E.G. Link

and fix the skid plates to the splitter like so:
tzm1.jpg
 
I was thinking of a bit of ali plate and a spot of Blue Tack myself.:wtf:
 
Bluetack is for rookies. Everyone knows Unibond No More Nails is the best, could hold it on with some spit and tissue paper while the No nails sets too.

Actually, the above must be the approved fixing techniques of most French cars from the 90's :idea:
 
Lewis583 said:
I'd suggest using some countersunk allen head bolts, E.G. Link

and fix the skid plates to the splitter like so:
tzm1.jpg
Click to expand...

You know what, that's fantastic.

I have some M8 counter sinks that would do this nicely.

As for skid plate material, I either have 3mm steel or 10mm thick alloy - the steel is probably too thing, and the alloy would probably wear out too fast.

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm
 
Some derv SMF's are stupidly rattly yea, as are the ultra light alloy ones it seems.

my old G60 flywheel was 6kg and never rattled, this is a very similar weight, and also noise free :)





Been for a test drive, feels pretty awesome :)
 
Looking good, might have to come to Audi driver to see this on track although it will be hard to beat the entertainment of jo's drifting skills. If you were to uni bond the skid plates on I'd recommend cutting groves into the ply where you intend to stick them but this could lead to chunks of ply being ripped off when/if the skids were to be knocked off but the cuts should provide a stronger bond.
 
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